Towing questions
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From: Mount Airy,MD
That is partially correct. While having a hitch allows you to go higher than 500/5000 lbs, that is ONLY when using a weight distribution hitch. Otherwise it is still limited to 500/5000 on the F150.
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From: Joplin MO
Unless you have a Class 4 hitch that's rated higher without WD. However, WD will make for a much more stable tow.
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From: Mount Airy,MD
As I stated, that is on the F150. The hitches on the F250 and higher are different and have a higher no WD rating.
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From: Joplin MO
4 posts, in chronological order:
Hello? Where's your weight slip, Prime? Do you have me on ignore?
Last edited by glc; Sep 4, 2013 at 03:47 PM.
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From: Joplin MO
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...eid=2013308409
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From: Mount Airy,MD
Correct, the factory hitch on a F-150 is a Class 3. However, not to beat a dead horse, but you can put a Class 4 (1000/10000) on a F-150 if it doesn't have a factory hitch.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...eid=2013308409
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...eid=2013308409
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From: Chicago Area
Correct, the factory hitch on a F-150 is a Class 3. However, not to beat a dead horse, but you can put a Class 4 (1000/10000) on a F-150 if it doesn't have a factory hitch.
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...eid=2013308409
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...eid=2013308409
Class 3 are at most 6000 lbs tow/600 lbs tongue weight with weight distribution.
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From: Mount Airy,MD
See this thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/to...ht-rating.html
PS Ford calls these hitches a class III/IV. Not a III, but not a IV.
Last edited by kingfish51; Sep 4, 2013 at 09:40 PM.
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From: Chicago Area
You need to look at the numbers on the label posted on the hitch. It will state the 10,500 is ONLY with a WD hitch. Otherwise it is limited to 500/5000.
See this thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/to...ht-rating.html
PS Ford calls these hitches a class III/IV. Not a III, but not a IV.
See this thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/to...ht-rating.html
PS Ford calls these hitches a class III/IV. Not a III, but not a IV.
Class 3 has always been up to 500/5000 weight distribution.
Class I —up to 2,000 pounds (910 kg) — light loads
Class II —up to 3,500 pounds (1,600 kg) — light loads
Class III —up to 5,000 pounds (2,300 kg) — larger loads (campers, boats, etc.)
Class IV —up to 10,000 pounds (4,500 kg) — larger loads (campers, boats, etc.)
Class II —up to 3,500 pounds (1,600 kg) — light loads
Class III —up to 5,000 pounds (2,300 kg) — larger loads (campers, boats, etc.)
Class IV —up to 10,000 pounds (4,500 kg) — larger loads (campers, boats, etc.)
Class III Trailer Hitch Receivers:
Designed for trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles
2" x 2" receiver hitch opening
Rated up to 6,000 lbs GTW with 600 lbs TW
Allows for more gear to be carried or towed
Works with all Class III accessories, such as bike racks, cargo carriers, and tube covers
Class I and Class II (1-1/4") hitch accessories can also be used with an adapter
Ball mounts are sold separately.
Will work with hitch ***** with 1" diameter shank
NOTE: Most manufacturers call any hitch with a 2" x 2" opening a Class III hitch
It is not uncommon to see a 2" hitch rated at 3,500 lbs GTW called a Class III hitch
Available in square and round tube designs
Class IV Trailer Hitch Receivers:
Designed for trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles
2" x 2" receiver hitch opening
Rated up to 12,000 lbs GTW and 1,000 TW
Allows for even more gear to be carried or towed
Works with all Class III and IV accessories
Class I and Class II (1-1/4") hitch accessories can also be used with an adapter
Ball mounts are sold separately.
Will work with hitch ***** with 1" diameter shank
Class IV hitch ***** require a 1-1/4" diameter shank
Designed for trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles
2" x 2" receiver hitch opening
Rated up to 6,000 lbs GTW with 600 lbs TW
Allows for more gear to be carried or towed
Works with all Class III accessories, such as bike racks, cargo carriers, and tube covers
Class I and Class II (1-1/4") hitch accessories can also be used with an adapter
Ball mounts are sold separately.
Will work with hitch ***** with 1" diameter shank
NOTE: Most manufacturers call any hitch with a 2" x 2" opening a Class III hitch
It is not uncommon to see a 2" hitch rated at 3,500 lbs GTW called a Class III hitch
Available in square and round tube designs
Class IV Trailer Hitch Receivers:
Designed for trucks, vans and sport utility vehicles
2" x 2" receiver hitch opening
Rated up to 12,000 lbs GTW and 1,000 TW
Allows for even more gear to be carried or towed
Works with all Class III and IV accessories
Class I and Class II (1-1/4") hitch accessories can also be used with an adapter
Ball mounts are sold separately.
Will work with hitch ***** with 1" diameter shank
Class IV hitch ***** require a 1-1/4" diameter shank
As you can see, some makers have extended the rating slightly beyond the class' standard ratings. This is a newer thing but class 3 still never reaches anywhere near 1,000/10,000 lbs.
Last edited by Mike Up; Sep 4, 2013 at 11:24 PM.
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From: Mount Airy,MD
Class III can go higher than 5000 as long as it is with a WD hitch. Yes a class IV can go to 12000 with a WD hitch, but on the F150 is still rated only to 500/5000 without. The picture in the thread I listed is a class III and on an F150. Even Draw-Tite calls there hitches a Class III/IV and does not separate them, as does Ford.
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx
http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx
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From: Meriden, Ct.
You crack me up Mike. I'm having flash backs of you praising your precious 5.0 engine.Instead of the 5.0 engine now your just trying to push a cheaper and less desirable travel trailer on to someone to justify your purchase...
I have owned fiberglass trailers for years without any issues. And for the record there isn't anything better than the look of a freshly cleaned and waxed fiberglass sided trailer!!
Last edited by Kevin O.; Sep 7, 2013 at 10:10 AM.
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From: north Texas
All he has to do is subtract his families weight and subtract the weight of added gear and accessories from his tread act payload on the tire loading sticker on his door jam.
What he needs to do is go to a cat scale to weigh the whole rig and to find if the hitch adjustment moved the weights properly.
He really needs to go to rv.net to talk to experinced users as no one here really knows about travel trailer weights to help him make an educated decision on the size and weight of the travel trailer.
I also would stick with a Jayco and stay away from those fiberglass laminated ultralight trailers as they delaminate and fall apart so fast. At rv.net, theres several threads on this subject.
What he needs to do is go to a cat scale to weigh the whole rig and to find if the hitch adjustment moved the weights properly.
He really needs to go to rv.net to talk to experinced users as no one here really knows about travel trailer weights to help him make an educated decision on the size and weight of the travel trailer.
I also would stick with a Jayco and stay away from those fiberglass laminated ultralight trailers as they delaminate and fall apart so fast. At rv.net, theres several threads on this subject.
