Factory trailer brake install 2011 F150 FX4
Factory trailer brake install 2011 F150 FX4
Ok so I recently purchased a 2011 F150 FX4 4x4 with the ow package but it did not come with the factory brake controller. I did not want to use an aftermarket product as it does not intergrate with the factory sway control and just looks ugly. I went online and bought a factory controller off ebay for $120 bucks brand new. Now installing it into a truck with a floor mounted shifter is alot more involved then a colum shifted truck so I took some pic's to show the proceedure:
You will need the following tools:
1. T27 Torx nut driver or socket bit
2. 7 & 8 milimeter sockets or nut drivers
3. Plastic panel removal tool or just be careful not to break clips
First lift up on the console storage lid and remove 3 - T27 torx screws then remove the lid. Ok between the USB/AUX ports and the console is a small filler panel, gently pull it and pop it out. Now gently pull up from the storage area the silver trim on the console and it will pop up. Up fron by the usb port there are 2 clips pointing downward holdin ght console top from moving, try to pop them up without breaking the clip its a PITA!!!


Once you have that removed, you will need to unbolt the shifter from the console, not disconnecting the shift cable as it will stay with the shifter. Remove the lower trim panel by the gas petal on the center console and there is a 8mm screw that needs to be removed then slide the seat as far forward as possible to expose the rear 8mm screw. On the pass side you just need to move the seat and remove the rear screw but the pass lower trim panel must be removed as well then remove 2 - 8mm screws under the radio. Once that is done grab the console from inside the storage area and pull it back. It will be tough as it needs to pop the duct that feeds air to the rear seats apart.


Now you will see that the alignment pin has come out of the trim panel that needs to be removed to get the storage area out and install the controller. Remove the 7mm screw holding this and gently work the clips off, be careful as this panel is hooked under the gauge cluster trim so you do not want to crack it.


Once it comes free, watch to unclip the 4x4 harness and put it where you wont step on it. Now remove the 2 - 7mm screws holding in the storage slot and this is the funny part. On the back some trucks have the trail brake harness clipped to it but some do not. Mine did not, it is taped up under the dash so I used an E-xacto knife and carefully cut the tape to expose the connector. There is also a body pin you need to remove to gain enough length to feed the harness back up to the slot area. Now also on the harness is a dummy clip that you must remove before it will plug into the controller.




Now plug it into the brake controller and reuse the 2 - 7mm screws to mount the controller.

Reverse the steps and your done. Then off to the FORD dealer so they can reflash the computer so it see's your new controller. Start towing!!!!!
Hope this helps
You will need the following tools:
1. T27 Torx nut driver or socket bit
2. 7 & 8 milimeter sockets or nut drivers
3. Plastic panel removal tool or just be careful not to break clips
First lift up on the console storage lid and remove 3 - T27 torx screws then remove the lid. Ok between the USB/AUX ports and the console is a small filler panel, gently pull it and pop it out. Now gently pull up from the storage area the silver trim on the console and it will pop up. Up fron by the usb port there are 2 clips pointing downward holdin ght console top from moving, try to pop them up without breaking the clip its a PITA!!!


Once you have that removed, you will need to unbolt the shifter from the console, not disconnecting the shift cable as it will stay with the shifter. Remove the lower trim panel by the gas petal on the center console and there is a 8mm screw that needs to be removed then slide the seat as far forward as possible to expose the rear 8mm screw. On the pass side you just need to move the seat and remove the rear screw but the pass lower trim panel must be removed as well then remove 2 - 8mm screws under the radio. Once that is done grab the console from inside the storage area and pull it back. It will be tough as it needs to pop the duct that feeds air to the rear seats apart.


Now you will see that the alignment pin has come out of the trim panel that needs to be removed to get the storage area out and install the controller. Remove the 7mm screw holding this and gently work the clips off, be careful as this panel is hooked under the gauge cluster trim so you do not want to crack it.


Once it comes free, watch to unclip the 4x4 harness and put it where you wont step on it. Now remove the 2 - 7mm screws holding in the storage slot and this is the funny part. On the back some trucks have the trail brake harness clipped to it but some do not. Mine did not, it is taped up under the dash so I used an E-xacto knife and carefully cut the tape to expose the connector. There is also a body pin you need to remove to gain enough length to feed the harness back up to the slot area. Now also on the harness is a dummy clip that you must remove before it will plug into the controller.




Now plug it into the brake controller and reuse the 2 - 7mm screws to mount the controller.

Reverse the steps and your done. Then off to the FORD dealer so they can reflash the computer so it see's your new controller. Start towing!!!!!
Hope this helps
Last edited by blownblu03; Apr 6, 2013 at 02:40 PM.
You can actually put alot of pressure on the trim piece that goes around contoller. I did mine and didnt take anything apart around console. I just bent back trim enough to get to bolt and it was done very quick.
this is my next mod to my truck. Luckily I have the column gear shift so reports are about a 10 minute job. The biggest draw back is going to the dealer to get it flashed to recognize it, but I think will be worth it with the added benefits of looks and functunality.
nice write up. i just put mine in this weekend. it was pretty easy except for installing the trim piece around the shifter. i could not get he front two clips to lock in, ended up leaving having to pull the center council back to install it and leave out the 2 bolts underneath it. just need to take it to the dealer now and have the computer flashed.
Now tell me if this makes sense, I took mine to the dealer and they told me this. They went into the computer and mine does not need the reflash since it came equiped with the harness and the 4/7 pin harness. The computer already is activated and you just need to hook in the controller and setup the trailer in the cluster menu.
Well I have not hooked it to a trailer as of yet but I have my doubts as to if it will work or not but they also said that if it was not activated in the computer I would get a trailer error on the dash once I put the relay and fuse in then connected the controller. Some trucks that do not have the complete tow package will need the computer reflashed.
Does this make sense?
Well I have not hooked it to a trailer as of yet but I have my doubts as to if it will work or not but they also said that if it was not activated in the computer I would get a trailer error on the dash once I put the relay and fuse in then connected the controller. Some trucks that do not have the complete tow package will need the computer reflashed.
Does this make sense?
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Now tell me if this makes sense, I took mine to the dealer and they told me this. They went into the computer and mine does not need the reflash since it came equiped with the harness and the 4/7 pin harness. The computer already is activated and you just need to hook in the controller and setup the trailer in the cluster menu.
Well I have not hooked it to a trailer as of yet but I have my doubts as to if it will work or not but they also said that if it was not activated in the computer I would get a trailer error on the dash once I put the relay and fuse in then connected the controller. Some trucks that do not have the complete tow package will need the computer reflashed.
Does this make sense?
Well I have not hooked it to a trailer as of yet but I have my doubts as to if it will work or not but they also said that if it was not activated in the computer I would get a trailer error on the dash once I put the relay and fuse in then connected the controller. Some trucks that do not have the complete tow package will need the computer reflashed.
Does this make sense?
So I finally got around to hooking a trailer up to my truck but the truck does not seem to see it. I know with the headlamps on the + & - signs on the brake controller do not aluminate either. I put the factory supplied relays and fuse in under the hood and the dealer states that the computer does not need a reflash. Anyone know for sure??
So I finally got around to hooking a trailer up to my truck but the truck does not seem to see it. I know with the headlamps on the + & - signs on the brake controller do not aluminate either. I put the factory supplied relays and fuse in under the hood and the dealer states that the computer does not need a reflash. Anyone know for sure??
this is a pretty dumb statement but i have to put it out there, did the trailer you were towing have brakes?
i tow trailers with and without brakes. the trailers i tow without brakes using both the 4 and 7 pin hooks ups, the truck does not register that there is a trailer attached.
The trailer did have brakes, it was a 7 pin. Also when I hit the +/- it does nothing and they don't aluminate with the headlights on.
Reason I pulled the console is because that trim doesn't come off without it. The console has it pinched and would break before it would come off. A bench seat truck won't have this issue.
Reason I pulled the console is because that trim doesn't come off without it. The console has it pinched and would break before it would come off. A bench seat truck won't have this issue.





