Clevis:
Looks similiar to a shackle, but uses a pin with no threads.

Shackle:
Looks similiar to a clevis, but has threads for the pin to screw into.

 

Same difference

 

get a quality hitch receiver pin and just slide a recovery strap into the reciever and slide the pin through. you need a RECOVERY strap, not a tow strap fyi. tow straps do not stretch, they are made for towing something. not yanking.

 

I like the idea of just using a hitch receiver pin; much less weight to lug around when you don't need a drawbar yet strong enough for the job.

Yanking is not a good idea, even with a recovery strap, since you have no control over how much stress is being placed on the equipment. BTW, if a recovery strap should ever let go, it will snap back like a giant rubber band and will most likely do serious damage.

 

A recovery strap is not going to cause major damage when it breaks. A lot of it's forces are lost when it breaks unlike a chain.

 

Call it a shackle or call it a clevis, this is why you aren't supposed to use one:

http://www.southernhighrollers.com/t..._miss_from.htm

It not so much because of them breaking, it's because they become missiles if something goes wrong!

 

My reading comprehension might be off, but what i'm getting from this is the hook itself did not fail but the rusty frame did.

Notice, that is a clevis hook as well not a d-ring.

 

Too true. But in a properly designed system, it should take a minimum of at least three errors to result in a potentially lethal event, including at least one hardware failure and one human failure. It's called "idiot proofing" but as we all know, they're constantly building better idiots so you have to grossly OVER-engineer every man critical system! Failure to do so is why we see bumpers pull off, straps and cables break, shackles being used, hooks flying, crowds standing near tow straps, etc.

Someone here pointed out that clevis/shackles should be chosen for the load and not just for what fits. That's a good point but as I said before, most people have NO idea of what kinds of loads are imposed when towing, braking or when trying to pull out a stuck vehicle so it's impossible for them to pick the right equipment. Add to the fact, that most (all?) of the Chinese made equipment has ZERO built-in safety factor. Several people here showed off their 6,000# rated, Chinese made tow hooks; those are totally inadequate for even towing a 6,000 PLUS pound vehicle much less trying to pull out one that's stuck! Folks, go read the manuals!

 

That is hilarious and so true


I agree, there is a lot of great info in there, a real survival manual for the off roader

 

My setup is designed to allow me to help someone out of a ditch or snowbank or the reverse of that in case I get myself stuck. If its not going to be a simple task I'll call them a tow truck. I don't off-road or go mudding in my truck.

I carry a quality 40,000 lb rated strap. Added the two hooks on the back of my truck because two locations to attach to are better than one. I carry no hooks or additional hardware.

Even though I plan on limited towing I reviewed the manuals that were attached to this thread and I gained some useful insight. If I ever go off-roading I'll do a much better job of rereading these so I can safely and easily retrieve my vehicle when I inevitably get it stuck, there really is some great info in there.