Where did you buy the roush tube from? How much?

 

Notice and difference with the Roush tube?

 

I'm wanna know too, I wouldnt mind buying that Roush tube

 

It's a component of the ROUSH air intake package. As per a call to ROUSH, just-the-tube isn't available.

There's still A LOT of road salt and sand dust clouds on the high/byways around here so the airbox lid and conical filter install will wait.

As for difference ... With just the intake tube, there is a slight increase in growl even at ½ throttle.

Don't REALLY expect much performance gains when the installation is complete. Would need more extensive mod's to realize that.

Review:

• EXCELLENT fit and finish.
• VERY HIGH quality.
• looks like a factory part.
• simple 5minute (or less) installation.
• REALLY dresses-up and unclutters the engine bay.
  

 

-UPDATE-
For those that want to try ... The part # for just-the-tube is 1150-9B659.

Observation(s) for the why (besides no silencers, baffling, diversions, etc. that are on the OEM) ...

• the diameter of the ROUSH tube is 15% larger than the OEM. *3¾" versus 3¼".
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• the ROUSH tube has the same diameter for its entire length, while the OEM narrows at the inlet and outlet openings.

Maybe there's more performance gains than anticipated.

If nothing else, there's more betterer air flow efficiency.
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Looks nice! After changing my oil for the first time yesterday, I could see the oil fill tube being handy. Is it available by itself?

 

Very nice product.

 

Tell me why do you need a oil catch can? Is the 5.0 having a blow by problem??

 

That particular one is from a 2006 Explorer 4.6L and was an eBay find for cheap. *New should still be available from FoMoCo.

The other option was to use the oil filler extension from a 2010 F-150 5.4L ... part # 3L3Z-6763-DA - $10.54 (or less) wholesale / $14.65 retail.
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IMO "blow-by" is an old-school term for oil getting-by the piston rings and pertains to worn-out engines. *An YA, I'm old enough to know.

The PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) causes oil fumes in the valvetrain to be sucked-into air intake system and passed to the cylinders to be burnt-off and catalyzed (it's an emission thang).

The oil fumes ...

• can condense and puddle oil in the intake manifold.
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• get burned in the engine cylinders.
  • this affects A/F ratio which in turn will cause (in the case of knock sensored engines) the timing to be retarded.
  • can coke the pistons (a.k.a. carbon build-up) which in turn will cause (in the case of knock sensored engines) the timing to be retarded.

So ... It's not really a "problem", it's just WAD (Working As Designed). NBD, right? Unless you tend to hang-on to vehicles for long periods of time and/or put-on a lot of miles.

Some choose to minimize the issue and promote efficiency.

After just 200miles after installation, I opened the can and found ~1tablespoon of a milky oil solution - oil mixed with condensation.

NOTE: Only have 4,000miles on vehicle - bought it with 3miles, 1st oil change was @ 1,000miles, last oil change was @ 3,500miles. *Ya I know ... ****.
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