After installing these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190417110261...#ht_3438wt_989

The turn signals blink rapidly.

The OEM bulbs are 3057k (not sure what the "k" is for) and the description for the replacement LED bulbs says they will function for 3057.

Did I order the wrong bulbs?

 

Have to add a inline resistor if your converting to LED T/S lights, rumor has it they make a special flasher relay for LEDs to remedy it though

 

You need to replace your "flasher: under the dash, the little black box that clicks when your signal light is on...

 

I thought the 09+ f150's flasher was controlled by Te computer. The clicking noise is an artificial sound on the new trucks. On my 2011 it is at least.

 

Any specific part # for the flasher I need with these LED's?

 

Sorry, I may be wrong about the flasher, I know in my 08 I replaced the flasher. Copper07 is most likely right...

 

The resistance (amount of voltage drawn by the bulb) is what changes blink speed from the flasher.

All F150s still have flashers.

Motorcraft part number for an F150 with signal mirrors is SF624

Motorcraft part number for an F150 without signal mirrors is SF625

 

OnBelay,

I have signal mirrors so is the part # you noted what I need with my LED bulbs or is that what I currently have as oem?

 

That is what you have as Original Equipment.

To make your signals flash at their (former) normal, slower rate, you would need to add a resistor in line. I am sorry I don't know a value for the resistor you would need, but you might check with the manufacturer of the LEDs if you still have the packaging.

If you know how to measure resistance, you can use a DVOM and figure out the difference between your old bulb and the LED.

 

I had this problem when I would push the brake only and only one side. I called the seller and he sent me a new resister that is back by the tails and everything work fine again but mine is the whole assembly.

 

trucks 09 and up i know there are no actual 'blinkers' . the smart junction boxes take care of the flashing.

you willl need an inline resistor.
www.v-leds.com
has them , depending on if you just replaced the back, or the front and back. you will need specific resistor packs ..

these will get HOT. they need to be mounted out of contact with anything else .

also if you plan on replacing evething to LED. rears and fronts. you could have some feedback from flasher to parking, i installed inline diodes in both the parking/stop and turn. on all 6 lights.

i didnt install resistors to fix hyperflash - i dont feel they blink fastenough to have drivers not notice they are blinking.

 

Thanks for the info Betcher78.

Was hoping it would be just a simple flasher replacement. I may not go forward with these taillight LED's.

 

i am partial to v-leds site and product. I have only ever had one issue , and that was one SMT LED had a bad solder and would flash only one led as truck would idle. they replaced no questions asked.

I am using stock housings all around.

the font parking / turns are thier switch back model where they are white, while turning they flash amber.

in the back i used red LED's and also the 3rd brake lite is LED. all were the highest output they had when i switched.

Again if you plan to do everything. you willl need to put diodes inline as well as a resistor pack in the back. and front to fix hyperflash.

with red leds in stock housings. the color is easier to see in my opinion. and from farther away.

i just got the puddle lamps out and converted to LED. each lense now has 4 SMT leds.. nice and bright.

let me know if you have any questions or give them an email or call over at velds.. easy to work with.

 

Inline diodes and resistor packs---what is involved (splicing, soldiering, shrink wrap)??

 

yes.. if you want to change everything over to LED, and also fix hyperflash. you will want to do both at the same time as you will be soldering diodes. and also installing resistor to one side of the diode, easiest to do all of this at the same time.
solder then heat shrink everything. take your time and it will work with no issues.

i didnt install resistors, and there is a definate on-off-on on blink so i didnt worry about it.
i also replaced all interior lighting with LED except visor mirror light. didnt want to blind my wife.
and cargo lamps/backup lamps. all led. i dont have a cap on bed. so you can definalty see whats in there now. !!

another note. for resistors. you will want to put a two bulb resistor behind each lense in back. and in front i would put one bulb resistor behind each spot. if you were to put a higher resistor behind only one lense in back. its possible you could 'sink' all of the current through that one side. and damage wiring. im not shure how they tie grounds, or if multiple grounding points are used. it would be safer to use multiple resistors at the points where x number of bulbs exists. also if they were also installed only in the back. a 2 bulb model on each side. you might not need any up front. only diodes. and the flash could be fine.

im very comfortable doing stuff like this. however not on a new vehicle, as long as you take your time you will be ok. the Smart Junction Boxes in these and other vehicles are picky for sure.. and expensive.

they had some good reference on v-leds regarding diode installation. and also for the resistor packs. ill try to link to that when i can find it again.

the wiring is universal on these trucks. in the back you will have ground, taillight, turn,, ect.. dont quote me on that order. color codes can be found on this site for sure.
and i can also double check on my truck. ill pull the lenses.
if you want some pics let me know and PM me . i can emial you a couple of what my truck loooks like at night with them going.