Inner Wheel Well Liners
Inner Wheel Well Liners
Thought I'd share some pics of my new Rugged Liner inner wheel well liners. They have just been released by Rugged Liner and are not yet shown on their web site. Easy to install without any drilling. Time will tell how they work this winter, but I have to figure they're going to be better then nothing. As a plus you can't see through the truck between the bed and frame. Always hated that.
http://fishhawk.smugmug.com/Trucks/F...659982_7ckFLMr
http://fishhawk.smugmug.com/Trucks/F...659982_7ckFLMr
Fishhawk, those look really nice.
How is the fit and overall quality? Cost?
Do you know if they are working on some for the front? I hate knowing that all the crap from the wheel well has such easy access to the engine compartment!
Thanks
How is the fit and overall quality? Cost?
Do you know if they are working on some for the front? I hate knowing that all the crap from the wheel well has such easy access to the engine compartment!
Thanks
They were $120 plus tax. I called around and was told prices from $120 to $192. I think a lot of that is due to the fact that they were just released from Rugged Liner.
As far as the front, I doubt they have anything. They probably figure the factory front liners are enough.
Excellent...thanks for all the info and pics. Gonna see if my local truck parts store can get them. Ice/snow/salt are not an issue here, but it adds a more finished look to the truck and keeps the road crap out of the wheel well.
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I had the dealer undercoat the entire truck, plus I 3M undercoated the rear wheel wells myself. This is just the final piece of the puzzle. The grime really built up behind the rear fender area back to the bumper last winter. With these, I just eliminated that entirely.
LineX is not going to do much good for keeping the junk out of the inside of the rails.

Couple pointers to save a little time installing these.
1. You DO NOT need to take the wheel/tire off.
2. There is a drivers side and pass side. DS marking is barely legible on the top of the insert.
3. Trim the excess out of the two semi-drilled holes in the insert prior to installing.
4. Get the front of the insert (shock mount) inside the wheel well 1st and then work the back in with a flat tip till the lip pops inside.
5. I used clear silicone to seal inside the area between the insert and the truck well lip. That should keep road crud and salt from getting behind it?
6. A 2nd trim plug goes in thru the back of the liner on the passenger side. *Same place where the gas vent hose was R&R'd.
Tools:
Razor knife
Med flat tip screw driver
3/8" drive ratchet/ 4" extension/10mm socket
*Optional clear silicone.
I also got some 18" wide black rubber faced coveyor belting and finished the enclosure job by attaching it to the back of the liner and running it back above the shackle to the inside of the bumper. Based off my other trucks and what I can see on this one, the road crud/mud slings back and builds inside the cavity along the bed and inside the bumper then rust starts.

Couple pointers to save a little time installing these.
1. You DO NOT need to take the wheel/tire off.
2. There is a drivers side and pass side. DS marking is barely legible on the top of the insert.
3. Trim the excess out of the two semi-drilled holes in the insert prior to installing.
4. Get the front of the insert (shock mount) inside the wheel well 1st and then work the back in with a flat tip till the lip pops inside.
5. I used clear silicone to seal inside the area between the insert and the truck well lip. That should keep road crud and salt from getting behind it?
6. A 2nd trim plug goes in thru the back of the liner on the passenger side. *Same place where the gas vent hose was R&R'd.
Tools:
Razor knife
Med flat tip screw driver
3/8" drive ratchet/ 4" extension/10mm socket
*Optional clear silicone.
I also got some 18" wide black rubber faced coveyor belting and finished the enclosure job by attaching it to the back of the liner and running it back above the shackle to the inside of the bumper. Based off my other trucks and what I can see on this one, the road crud/mud slings back and builds inside the cavity along the bed and inside the bumper then rust starts.
This was a concern of mine also. After I installed I ran a bead of RTV silicone along the edge where the liner came in contact with the lip. I also had the underside of the bed and inner fenders undercoated by the dealer along with my appling a coating of 3M undercoating on the inside of the fender lip last year. You can also get a high preasure hose in front and behind the liners and still have cleaning access to the inside of the bumpers.






