I have figured out on mine, the reason for the poor a/c is becaue the compressor is cycling on and off 5 times a minute. Its not rocket science to realize that isn't going to keep you cool in 100 degree heat.
So the question is, how do you get the compressor to run all the time other than running a hot wire straight to the compressor?

 

Sounds like it is low on Freon...........

 

Nope, not low on freon at all. Its where it is supposed to be. Just somebodies dumb decision to have the computer shut the compressor off 5 times a minute.

 

Mine stays on most of the time, it is ice cold.

 

It is of my opinion that that the reason it don't cool as good is because it has an expansion valve orifice and not a fixed one. Gm uses a fixed orifice and they cool better. Or it could be it cycles to fast. I wish we could fix the problem.

 

Just got done doing a customer call with a vendor in his 2013 Silverado.

He spent the first 30 minutes this morning telling me how glad he was the Iowa weather is finally cooling off, because his A/C sucks and he's never buying another GM product as long as he lives. At every stoplight this summer it would blow hot air, and the dealership kept checking it and trying different things without success.

I loaded up these forums on my iphone and read him a few lines from this thread, we both had a good laugh and moved on.

Grass sure looks the same on both sides of the fence to me!!

 

I fixed this problem on my '06 Lariat, then did a mod thread. Here it is:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/hv...re-bypass.html

 

feel UR cold tubes and put insulation around them.

 

I purchased a digital thermometer and took some A/C readings today. It will give you an idea as to where I am at.

Trip One

With the truck set to normal A/C, set at full cold and fan at maximum.

Outside Temperature = 78 Degrees F.
Humidity = 65%
Humidex = 86

At the centre port on the driver's side, the coldest reading I could get on the highway was 46.1 Degrees F.

With today's conditions, that would barely get the cab down to 70.2 Degrees F. On hotter days, we sweat our butts off.

At idle, the best it would do was 53.4 Degrees F.

Trip Two

With the truck set to MAX air and the fan at maximum.

Outside Temperature = 79 Degrees F.
Humidity = 66%
Humidex = ?

At the centre port on the driver's side, the coldest reading I could get on the highway was 44.8 Degrees F.

Trip Three

With the truck set to normal A/C, set at full cold and fan at maximum.

Outside Temperature = 81 Degrees F.
Humidity = 66%
Humidex = ?

At the centre port on the driver's side, the coldest reading I could get on the highway was 46.2 Degrees F.

At idle, the best it would do was 53.1 Degrees F.

Green Gem

 

Ok well your discription sounds just like my AC. However mine is now blowing frosty. First off most dealers and AC men in general will not take such drastic steps to fix this issue but here it is. Have or replace the evaporator box in the cab. Part number DL3Z*19850*A.
Up until 2012 there is no cabin air filter. On max the AC pulls air from the cab. If this is a work truck or even a pet lovers truck the evaporator is stopped up. You should have enough air flow on max high to hold a piece of paper against the seat back. If not here is your problem.
my evap. was stopped up with dog hair from Butch and dust from the job site.

 

My problem is not dirt in my cabin filter for sure, it is the compressor cycling on an off 5 times every minute. On a humid day, it will blow fog out of the vents and the chrome around the vents will fog up, and then the compressor kicks back in and all the fog will disappear and then in a few seconds will dump humid air back into the cab. It is very frustrating that I can't use normal A/C setting for anything over 80 degrees. My 2006 GMC will freeze you and so will my son's 90 crown vic. It blows 38 degree air on regular a/c at 95 degree outside. That is proper a/c operation. The most frustrating part is that it can be fixed easily with a TSB and a program change, but they won't do it.
If it wasn't for the eco boost engine, I would be gone.
I have had it in and they have sucked all the freon out and put it back in, and it is the exact same as it was before. Done it since it was new. My 2010 did the same thing, and they put a different computer program in it to keep the compressor on all the time, and it solved the issue very easily. But they won't do that for me on this 2013. Very frustrating.

 

^^^ you can thank the .gov and their tree hugging ideas for this. Cycling the compressor gives an ever so slight bump to the fuel economy and helps meet CAFE compliance.

 

If it is computer controlled I wonder if one of these tuning companies could make the compressor stay on?

 

King ranch
That is a good idea. I might just see if I can find someone that can program that out of it.
Thanks.

 

On one of the other forums a guy used the Ford diagnostic software to force the compressor to run full time. He was getting low 30s from the duct. I haven't looked at it in a while to see if they have figured out a way to do it full time.