Motorcraft 5w20 has been used in my 03 since brand new except for one time i ran Valvoline in it. 122k miles and it doesnt use any oil during the 5k interval. Cant beat MC in my opinion....

 

This almost makes me wanna change from Mobil1 back to MC...

 

I hear you. I've been a loyal Mobil 1 user for the last 12 years but the price of their oil continues to rise and that's what caused me to look at other options.

 

I just put in the last of my Mobil 1 stash. Next time it's back to MC.

 

As I have said around here for decades it seems, if you are paying for a premium oil, you should expect premium results. This is pretty much a typical report of most any of the synthetic oils. They not only don't provide premium results, in most cases, they can't rival the much less costly blends. With a blend, you get the best of all of the basestocks. None of the basestocks provides for more lubricity. Not all basestocks are compatible with the additive packages which creates issues of their own. More additives that can break down are added to make them work. Blends also use chemistry to keep things in balance but not anywhere near the same level. I think it probably slipped by most readers but the remarks in the M1 report "typical wear from this type of engine after a 5300 mile run" when the report shows the run was actually 4500 miles. That's missing the mark by over 18% of the AVERAGE. While it's obviously not doing damage to the engine, I would label it as a fail. There are a lot better choices out there at far cheaper prices that can best this by a lot. Under normal driving conditions, the Tritons will give up about 1-1.5 iron per 1000 miles.
Any Gp III is a synthetic base oil. The Gp IIIs are a liquid AND a gas to liquid technology. The Gp IVs are a gas to liquid technology, still using hydrocarbons for manufacture. The Gp Vs are are considered everything else but mostly means the esters which are a reaction of alcohol and a fatty acid usually. The Gp IIIs are a synthetic as they do not appear in nature and are manmade. There are few Gp IV oils left on the market as the ethylene gas to make them has been hard to find and the cost has gone thru the roof. Some of the biggest names in synthetic oils are now a Gp III but they don't advertise it.

 

I've been using Pennzoil and Fram filters in my 4runner for almost 9 years. 208,000 miles later still going strong. And everyone hates Pennzoil and Fram filters! But they are dirt cheap at Walmart.
I think the big thing is change it!
On the new F150 I'll use MC and Fords filters.

 

I've used MC 5W20 Syn Blend on all my new Ford's since 2001 with zero issues. Just use a MC oil filter and you can't go wrong.

 

You have been lucky if you use Fram or any other cheap filter on a Ford. You will find numerous members on here that have had problems with the anti drainback valve on Fram filters. Ford needs oil on top of the engine at start up and the valve on the Fram filters collapses and lets the oil drain off. There have been a couple of cases where the filter material came loose and stopped up oil passages. Google "oil filter comparison" for an unbiased study of oil filters. Use them at your own risk.


BTW, most Walmarts have MC filters for very little more than the fram. Why would you risk your high dollar engene to save a couple of dollars?

 

FRAM = Death for a SOHC or DOHC modular V8!

 

I would go back and look at your intake, you have too high of silicon for my liking..I like single digits...Then I have to ask, are you having elevated metals because of some abrasive going on by the induction of dirt? Your SI went from 11 to 13?

I am not used to gasser OA..is 19 high for FE? on the diesels the limit is 100ppm..So 19 would be great for most diesels...

 

Made the switch today. Picked up 7 qts. of Motorcraft 5W20 and a FL820S at Walmart for under $30. Feels good to not be paying over $50 for an oil change that I am doing myself.

 

Who pays $50 for an oil change?

You can get oil changes for $15-$20 at the drive-thru oil change places and a oil change at the dealer ship for $25-$40 at the MOST.

I just heard a commercial on the radio with Mike Rowe that said Ford is offering "The Works" which includes an oil change for "$25 or less at your local Ford dealer".

I've found it costs more to do my own oil change then it does to have it done for me. So I haven't changed my own oil in years.

-ThaChad

 

Read the fine print. Most of the advertised oil change prices will apply to 5 qts. of oil and a filter. Add around 10 bucks for the extra 2 qts. that the 5.4 takes.

7 qts. of Mobil1 and a Mobil1 filter will run you in the neighborhood of $50. And that's if you buy the first 5 qts. in a gallon jug. If not you're looking at more than that.

I wouldn't let a quick lube change the oil in my lawnmower. The dealer is the only place who would even be considered. I change my own oil because I like to know it was done right.

 

Yeah, I've read that in the fine print, I've just never had anyone actually charge for the 'extra' oil.

My last truck was a '06 Dodge Ram Mega Cab w/5.7L HEMI, I took it to the dealer for every oil change, they would send me oil change coupons in the mail for $19.95 or sometimes $24.95, it disclaimed that it would cost more for a HEMI, but they never charged me more.

As I said, It costs me the same or more to do an oil change myself then to take it in and have it done, so I haven't done an oil change in years.

-ThaChad

 

I agree with you totally..... then the dealerships cant say something wasnt done properlly cause its on record what was done..