Emblem removal
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Emblem removal
O.K. I have a 2010 FX4 and I want to paint my Ford emblem black. I removed the two fastners on the back pryed with screwdriver pushed from the back and nothing doin. I dont want to break anything are these really that difficult to remove?
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Timbuk3 MI
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Yep ( ... "really that difficult to remove" ).
I've broken-off the studs on 2 grilles so far.
It's really NBD, since they can be easily (re)attached using 3M doubile-sided tape.
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I've heard stories / rumors / hearsay that others have successfully removed the emblem without breaking the studs. I say it's a fairy tale!
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Yep ( ... "really that difficult to remove" ).
I've broken-off the studs on 2 grilles so far.
1) Gently pried with nylon pry bars.
2) Used a hammer to knock-'em-out from the backside while gently prying ( another member's recommendation ). *Only broke one stud.
Inspecting the 1 unbroken stud, I've determined that FoMoCo designed them to break when removing the emblem. *The stud narrows to ~ 50% its size at the base of the emblem.2) Used a hammer to knock-'em-out from the backside while gently prying ( another member's recommendation ). *Only broke one stud.
It's really NBD, since they can be easily (re)attached using 3M doubile-sided tape.
.
I've heard stories / rumors / hearsay that others have successfully removed the emblem without breaking the studs. I say it's a fairy tale!
.
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,526
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From: Calgary, Alberta
Which emblem are you having trouble with?
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: WESTERN NY
if you mean the front grill and tailgate oval emblem, yes they are impossible to remove without *******ing something up. i ripped small portions of blue painters tape off and slid it behind each emblem piece by piece, then ran bigger pieces around those then newspaper to mask everything off. i sanded it down with 320 grit all over, sprayed 3 thin layers of rustoleum self etching primer. its green in color. then i used rustoleum flat black wheel paint. i think i probably did 5 or 6 coats on each. seeing as i had to do it outside, i put duct tape on a plastic glad reusable container and taped it to the truck so i could flip it over the emblem after i sprayed my layers on to keep particles or stuff flying in the air from sticking to it and they came out uniform and perfect. no problems at all. i also did the 2 fender and tailgate badges in the same manner but i sandblasted the chrome off all of those at my work. very happy with the results after asking blackout for some advice.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Timbuk3 MI
canadianelbow - Which emblem are you having trouble with?
The tailgate Ford emblem is held in place via double-sided tape.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Calgary, Alberta
I had to catch my grill emblem from falling off once I removed my nuts off the back of my grill. Granted, the grill was sitting on a bumper stand upside down, but if I wasn't prepared for it, it would have bounced off the concrete.
The tailgate emblem should be nothing that a heat gun, and a windshield stick shouldn't be able to handle. Keep any and all steel pry tools in the tool box. Stiff plastic is your friend here. You need to heat the metal, not the emblem. You need to get the metal hot enough so your brain tells you to let go. Summer is almost here. If you get a hot day, point the gate to the sun and let mother nature do her magic on the tailgate. When the truck is hot to the touch, use a stiff plastic tool and gently pry around the edges, moving it around. If you don't happen to have a windshield stick at your disposal, check out the wife's spatula drawer, and cut up one of her plastic cooking utensils. Cut it, sharpen the cut end into a chisel shape. It would help too if you had something flat, thin, and stiff, to disperse some of the prying energy over a greater area, and not directly on the indentation of the oval. Lay it flat on the gate, and pry against the flat (plastic) part.
The tailgate emblem should be nothing that a heat gun, and a windshield stick shouldn't be able to handle. Keep any and all steel pry tools in the tool box. Stiff plastic is your friend here. You need to heat the metal, not the emblem. You need to get the metal hot enough so your brain tells you to let go. Summer is almost here. If you get a hot day, point the gate to the sun and let mother nature do her magic on the tailgate. When the truck is hot to the touch, use a stiff plastic tool and gently pry around the edges, moving it around. If you don't happen to have a windshield stick at your disposal, check out the wife's spatula drawer, and cut up one of her plastic cooking utensils. Cut it, sharpen the cut end into a chisel shape. It would help too if you had something flat, thin, and stiff, to disperse some of the prying energy over a greater area, and not directly on the indentation of the oval. Lay it flat on the gate, and pry against the flat (plastic) part.
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 852
Likes: 12
From: Timbuk3 MI
As a follow-up ...
Doomed to failure ...
*NOTE: No Ford grille emblems were killed in the make of this pic'.
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Inspecting the 1 unbroken stud, I've determined that FoMoCo designed them to break when removing the emblem. *The stud narrows to ~ 50% its size at the base of the emblem.
*NOTE: No Ford grille emblems were killed in the make of this pic'.
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Yeah its the front one I was wrestling. I guess Ill just 3m it back on after I break it off. So the tailgate one is taped on? That should be easy seeing my truck is black Ill let the sun do its magic. Thanks for all the comebacks guys.
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Yep ( ... "really that difficult to remove" ).
I've broken-off the studs on 2 grilles so far.
It's really NBD, since they can be easily (re)attached using 3M doubile-sided tape.
.
I've heard stories / rumors / hearsay that others have successfully removed the emblem without breaking the studs. I say it's a fairy tale!
.
Yep ( ... "really that difficult to remove" ).
I've broken-off the studs on 2 grilles so far.
1) Gently pried with nylon pry bars.
2) Used a hammer to knock-'em-out from the backside while gently prying ( another member's recommendation ). *Only broke one stud.
Inspecting the 1 unbroken stud, I've determined that FoMoCo designed them to break when removing the emblem. *The stud narrows to ~ 50% its size at the base of the emblem.2) Used a hammer to knock-'em-out from the backside while gently prying ( another member's recommendation ). *Only broke one stud.
It's really NBD, since they can be easily (re)attached using 3M doubile-sided tape.
.
I've heard stories / rumors / hearsay that others have successfully removed the emblem without breaking the studs. I say it's a fairy tale!
.