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DynoLock correct wires for 2010 HD

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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 09:28 PM
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DynoLock correct wires for 2010 HD

Hi guys let me start by apologizing if this question has been beat to death but I could not find the "exact" answer to my problem via the search.

I have a 2010 Harley Davidson Edition and just installed a DynoLock and have a wiring question. The directions which came with the kit are completely wrong as far as which wires to tap into. I searched the site and found a nice thread with pics from Deano-FX4 but still have a question. Using the grey/brown "lock" wire works and using the light blue/light green "unlock" works but the tailgate unlocks with the first push of the unlock button. I would like to have the tailgate unlock with the rear doors (or when the unlock button is pressed twice). Does anyone else have any more information on this matter?

I have posted some pictures in my profile showing the actuator installed on my truck with the tailgate step for anyone who may be interested.

Thanks everyone!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 10:03 PM
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violet/gray wire I think...
 
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 10:36 PM
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I did find a violet/grey wire but when i tapped into it with a continuity tester it immediately triggered the unlock and it kept doing it until I let go. Deano-FX4 mentioned a violet/grey wire........and in his same paragraph he also mentioned to watch out for a violet/grey wire which is 12 volt positive at rest. I am going to try and look tomorrow to see if by chance there are 2 violet/grey wires.

Thanks for you reply!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 10:43 PM
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Splice into the lock/unlock wires for the passengers side or for the rear doors instead of the front door.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 10:52 PM
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I entered the door sill on the drivers side through the grommet in the rear door sill. In an effort not have to move to the passengers side can I just tap into wires in the the rear door sill as opposed to the front door sill? Do I look for the same colors? Thanks for your help!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Jmeo
I entered the door sill on the drivers side through the grommet in the rear door sill. In an effort not have to move to the passengers side can I just tap into wires in the the rear door sill as opposed to the front door sill? Do I look for the same colors? Thanks for your help!
Yeah the rear door sill will work just fine. I remember somebody did it that way but can't recall the wire colors without searching.

Here you go post number 28
https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...te-lock-2.html
 

Last edited by jdtech65; Nov 1, 2009 at 11:01 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by DeereGeff
I ran my wires to the drivers side door sill area and after some help from Deano-FX4, I found the wires I needed.

I installed a Dynolock Dynolock kit in my 2009 Platinum, I had a Pace Edwards model in my 2003 SCrew and never had a problem with it locking every time I locked the doors. There are instructions on the site as well. I will tell you the wires on my Platinum were different than the 2008's. With the help of Deano-FX4 I located the correct wires on my truck. Here is his response back to me on the wires.
Originally Posted by Deano-FX4
ok you want to look for a grey/brown (lock) and violet/grey or blue/green (unlock) in either the drivers or passengers rear door sil harness. to test them to make sure they are the right ones, they both should be sitting at ground and go to 12v when the door lock switch is pressed to lock or unlock. now make sure you test the wires first because there is a violet/grey wire that works in reverse 12v at rest and ground when activated. you don't want that.


Originally Posted by DeereGeff
Here is a shot of the wires and where I tapped in;
I tapped into the wires in the front drivers side door channel. Here is a link for the info on the 2009's https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...gate-lock.html Mine is wired such that it unlocks with the passenger doors on the second unlock signal.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 07:36 AM
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it saddens me to see blue scotch lock connectors, those things are evil and should be out outlawed, they cut the wire in half when you crimp them. please you soder when splicing wires.

now depending on what kind of a out put you need positive or negative will determine what wires to use.

also if you have a rmst installed you could hook up the tail gate unlock on a separate out put but a conman lock input.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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I just wanted to thank everyone for their help and let you know that I have got it working correctly now. After checking EVERY wire in the front & rear door sill I decided to remove the plastic between the front & rear doors and access the wires to the rear door there. This proved to be very easy. I simply removed a 7mm bolt from under a small removable cover at the top by the headliner and the T50 Torx head which holds the seatbelt to the wall. After removing these two bolts the cover just pops off. I lyed it across the floor and popped out a rubber gasket to access the plug. I then just used my continuity tester to find the lock and unlock wires to the rear door. Simple, simple. I wish I did this from the beginning as it only took 20 min from start to finnish. The two wires I attached to are purple with grey stripe and grey with brown stripe. I have also put some pictures of the accessed plug in my DynoLock folder for anyone who would like to see them. Thanks again for all your help!!!
 
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Deano-FX4
it saddens me to see blue scotch lock connectors, those things are evil and should be out outlawed, they cut the
wire in half when you crimp them. please you soder when splicing wires.


now depending on what kind of a out put you need positive or negative will determine what wires to use.

also if you have a rmst installed you could hook up the tail gate unlock on a separate out put but a conman lock input.
X2 ^ It seems like these just never last very long. But at least it can make for some easy diagnostics when you see these installed because that is usually where the problem is most of the time.
 
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