2009 - 2014 F-150

Power Tailgate Lock?

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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 05:53 PM
  #16  
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ok - I am confused.... i bought the pace edwards kit (plug and play), but the instructions on wiring seem different than i have read here.

They say to run the wiring kit under the truck and up inside the firewall in the engine compartment. It appears they wire to the battery power, and then have wires run from relays into the drivers door panel to get to the lock/unlock wires.

installs here seem to be done without relays....

Am I reading the instructions correctly? Do the relays etc sit in the engine compartment?

Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 07:29 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jhaskin4
ok - I am confused.... i bought the pace edwards kit (plug and play), but the instructions on wiring seem different than i have read here.

They say to run the wiring kit under the truck and up inside the firewall in the engine compartment. It appears they wire to the battery power, and then have wires run from relays into the drivers door panel to get to the lock/unlock wires.

installs here seem to be done without relays....

Am I reading the instructions correctly? Do the relays etc sit in the engine compartment?

Thanks for any help.
The Pace Edwards kit require the relay - I initially had a PE kit as well and this is what I didn't like. I returned it and went with the latest version from Dynolock. Plus the wire colors from PE were all screwed up.

PM me and I will give you the part number I have from Dynolock. The latest version from them is sturdier than previous models. They too had the wrong wiring colors, but I did email them with the correct colors.

Let me know if I can help.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2009 | 10:41 PM
  #18  
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I have the Dynolock too. actually I was sent the wrong bracket and was told I could bend it to make it work (or I could have sent it back). I bent it and it works fine. But the bracket was kind of flimsy and I had to use some tie straps to keep it tight inside my tailgate so it wouldn't rattle. So did they beef up the bracket on the latest models?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 09:17 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by SteveVFX4
I have the Dynolock too. actually I was sent the wrong bracket and was told I could bend it to make it work (or I could have sent it back). I bent it and it works fine. But the bracket was kind of flimsy and I had to use some tie straps to keep it tight inside my tailgate so it wouldn't rattle. So did they beef up the bracket on the latest models?
Yeah, they basically used two pieces of the pre-fabbed metal instead of the normal one. But it does hold well. No issues thus far, plus it's nice to have the lock/unlock feature on the tailgate. Some simple stuff goes a long way!
 
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 06:50 PM
  #20  
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Actually got the kit out today. Took the tailgate apart, and based on the instructions (which are awful) i cannot see how the actuator which they are saying mounts to the left of the handle works the lock mechanism to the right of the handle. Totally lost..... Any help much appreciated.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 06:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jhaskin4
Actually got the kit out today. Took the tailgate apart, and based on the instructions (which are awful) i cannot see how the actuator which they are saying mounts to the left of the handle works the lock mechanism to the right of the handle. Totally lost..... Any help much appreciated.
The locking pin will go across the metal bracket inside the handle, preventing the handle to operate unless the pin retracts when unlocked. It should line up on the left hand bolt (remove the 10mm nut).

I agree - the instructions suck.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 07:08 PM
  #22  
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Thanks to Ibcop - I get it now.... so the actuator does work...now on to the wiring. Ugh.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 07:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jhaskin4
Thanks to Ibcop - I get it now.... so the actuator does work...now on to the wiring. Ugh.
I sent you the door lock diagram to your email address.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 08:17 PM
  #24  
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This kit is going back. While I get the actuator now, the wiring is CLEARLY not for an 09. And the directions were dismal. I think you should expect more when coughing up that much for a kit solution. I could have done some mods to make it work - but that kind of defeats the purpose of the kit. Thanks for all the help. Dynolock on order.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2009 | 08:22 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jhaskin4
This kit is going back. While I get the actuator now, the wiring is CLEARLY not for an 09. And the directions were dismal. I think you should expect more when coughing up that much for a kit solution. I could have done some mods to make it work - but that kind of defeats the purpose of the kit. Thanks for all the help. Dynolock on order.
Wait until you see the difference in kits....let me know how it goes!
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 11:08 AM
  #26  
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Are the wiring colors the same on an XLT? Opening the passenger rear sill plate, it doesn't appear so.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 07:00 PM
  #27  
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yes the colors should the same. however you need to look further up along the front driver's side door sill.

lock motor wire is gray/brown
unlock motor wire is blue/green

Connect the Dynolock wires to them. If the Dynolock does the opposite of what your door locks do, then you just have to reverse the Dynolock wires.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 09:50 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BrainDonor
Are the wiring colors the same on an XLT? Opening the passenger rear sill plate, it doesn't appear so.

You can tap into the wires at the pillar as well, in case you don't wanna run the wire further up. The only draw back is if you tap the rear door, you'll have to push the unlock button twice on the FOB to get the tail gate to unlock.


Gray/Brown
Violet/Gray

Again, this is at the pillar - the same colors as Steve listed for the front driver door. Depending on what instruction sheet you got from Dynolock, they may or may not have the correct wires listed.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 09:59 PM
  #29  
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I didn't buy the dynolock. In an effort to save a little $ for the remote start install on Friday, I decided to wire in an actuator myself. my brother in law helped. we created our own mounting bracket and just bolted it in and wired it up. I don't know why I was hemming and hawing on this so long.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2009 | 05:52 PM
  #30  
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Dynolock

Got the kit yesterday - the bracket is pretty beefy, and clearly fits better than the PE one. I installed the actuator and the short harness, but ran out of time today and only ran the short harness out of the tailgate and put the tailgate cover back. Have to wait for next weekend to finish the wiring.
 
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