Pulling my 24' 5,000# travel trailer for nearly 1,000 highway miles I've gotten 12-13 mpg with my XLT Screw with the 3.73 rear-end. Thats hand calculated.

If you are only getting 12.1 mpg with that load, I can only believe the calculation is off or you drive like a madman.

 

Yep same here. When trailer is maxed out at about 8k lb's i get 12-12.9 on the mountain roads around here. I think i get about 14-15 on highway with the same load.

 

like I said, it was the computer calculating it. I was driving 70 mph.

 

I have a question for those towing more than 6,000 lbs. Leaving the payload capacity alone, I can't find any ball hitch rated for more than 6,000lbs. Is there some high capacity hitch available?

 

Class III - 1" shank, about 6,000lbs max

Class IV - 1-1/4" shank, usually about 10,000 - 12,000lbs at least

Most 2" ball hitches with a 1" shank (class III) are rated around 6,000lbs. Go up to a class IV 2-5/16" ball with a 1-1/4" shank and you'll find plenty at 10,000lbs+. Most class IV ballmounts are rated at least 12,000lbs.

http://www.etrailer.com/c-B114.htm

http://www.etrailer.com/c-HDB.htm

 

I got a forged drop tongue stinger that is rated for 10k.

 

if you have a tractor supply co close by they have a great selection of high quality hitches/*****. I've got 3 from them, a 2" drop @ 10K lbs, a 3 in 1 (1 7/8", 2", 2 5/16") rated at 10K for the 2 and 2 5/16 and lastly I've got a 2" pintle hook set up rated at 30K close and 12K ball. There are a lot of HD receivers at Tractor Supply Co.

 

Northern Tool is a good choice as well.

 

i was told Reese is a good brand as well... i am probably going to stick with it for now

 

I have a 2009 XLT crew 6.5 bed with the 3.55 gears. I pull a 24 ft aluminum Renegade car hauler v-nose - I use a distribution hitch and an anti-sway bar. I don't have the integrated brake controller, but use my Tekonsha voyager, which I've used in the past.
I load my race car into my trailer which ways about 1500 lbs. plus tools, tires, etc - I figure about another 700 pounds. The trailer is probably only 3000-3500 pounds. That's a maximum of under 6000 lbs.

This setup tows fine and I can cruise at about 70 or 75 comfortably if it's not too windy.

I used to pull this same setup with the old style Tundra - the distribution hitch and sway bar made a huge difference in general control and also during windy days.

A lot of people over build their tow setups. I don't even have the max tow setup and it works fine.
The distribution hitch takes does a lot to take the weight off of the hitch. I'd recommend one to anyone.

Diesel's nice for towing, but if you don't tow very often, then it's just not worth the extra cash, not to mention that you'd have to step up to a 250 which isn't as nice to drive.

You can make your own decisions, but the 150 does the job just fine for me.

 

In reference to discussion concerning FAWR, the 2004-2008 (don't know about the the 2009's)MY HD package had this rating while the satndard duty had a 3850 # rating.

 

There are far more people overloaded than overnuilt on the roads. They make assumptions and have misunderstandings about weights, towing, etc.

Ever weighed your setup, specifically one that tells how much on each axle? You could be over and not even know it!

 

Thanks to all for the high capacity ball/hitch solutions. I appreciate it.

 

Sorry bud, I am calling BS on this one. Diesel's aren't even getting that kind of mileage. 12-12.9 with 8000# in the mountains? Not trying to be rude but get real. The 09 doesn't get that much better mileage empty over the previous gen. I tow 8000# on a regular basis. I am telling you in the NC mountains I see 6-8MPG these are real numbers. On flats, on the way to the beach, doing 63MPH not trying to hot rod, I can get 13. THATS IT. No more. I usually average 11-12.5 on that trip. It is a 3 1/2 hr drive, right at 280 miles. It is a great trip to figure fuel mileage.

 

You don't need a scientific analysis including specific weights, percentages, ratings on 30 different pieces to figure this stuff out. If you don't have experience towing, go to your local trailer shop and they'll guide you - the dealer's don't know any more than what’s written in the manual.
There are plenty of vehicles that aren't loaded properly - you can see it in how unlevel their rigs are. But having to do the calculations on all of these factors that you're talking about is too much.
Your local trailer shop can tell you what you need for a tow vehicle and they'll most likely be impartial since they don't sell tow vehicles. They might recommend a distribution hitch, which they sell, but items like that will only help.
Just putting a tow ball on the mount isn't enough to know if you can tow something, but don’t make it sound like you're trying to send a rocket into orbit.