I am going to attempt to add an aftermarket amp and subs to my 2009 screw, but still use the stock head unit.
I was looking for some info on getting the panels or whatever it takes to get in behind the factory stereo to add a line out convertor.
If anyone has any info that would be greatly appreciated.

 

I tried and it was a biatch. I couldnt get the passenger side vent panel of no matter what i did. It looked to me like the airbag had to me removed somehow but i removed about 20-30 screws and still couldnt get the thing out. I ended up prying the console apart enougth to pull the center console out but it wernt easy and i could have easy broke something. Dont try it until you get details how to remove it.

 

First of all don't bother with a line out converter. It'll allow you to connect the amp but it will never sound as good as it could. Go with something like a re-Q http://reqsound.com/. The factory HU is designed to decrease bass as the volume increases, a device like the re-Q maintains the bass at high volume and improves sound quality across the entire range.

 

Yeah Tbird is right about not going with a lineout converter. If ya gonna take the dash apart do it properly. But i did notice when i changed my sub and amp in the rear that it was the amp it's self that limits the sub and not the head unit. But it's still worth going with a cleansweep type system.

 

The Sony system is likely different, but it's a safe bet the regular HU has the limitations I mentioned.
JL audio also makes one:http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...hp?prod_id=369


BTW Barritia, sweet job on that sub install.

 

Yeah the standard system very well could have. Im thinking about that JL cleansweep. Heard great things about it.

Having some issues with the sub install. Even though i used a slim sub it's still hitting and resting on the seat. I would love to know how people are getting standard size subs under that seat without it hitting the seat. I need to make some kind of spacer for each seat to rise it up a little. Even half an inch would be perfect.

 

So I read info on the cleansweep but I'm still not getting the install? do you just unplug you speaker harness from the back of the deck and then install a harness from the CS into the deck where the speaker harness was and then rca's from the CS to whatever amps you have?

How much is it on average?

 

Should be from deck to CS to amp then back to speaker harness to speakers.

I am going with the RF3Sixty cause I will be amping a center channel as well. However, there are harnesses out there you can buy coming from your HU so you don't have to cut anything. You will need one male and one female harness to complete this action without cutting IMO.

Metra Electronics Corp. - XSVI-5520-NAV
Metra Electronics Corp. - 71-5520-1

 

You just splice into the speaker leads (Wiring diagram useful here), run to the Cleansweep, from the Cleansweep to the amp(s), then from the amp(s) to the speakers. Of course you no longer use the factory speaker connections.

 

I still aint even found the factory amp for the front and rears as of yet. Even after taking the dash apart for the VSS mod i was going to try. I will have a better look when i order the JL CL441DSP. Really wanna hear the difference my self what these processor's can do. Heard such good things about them. But the JL version is ment to be the better system between the RF and JL. Something about the setup technique.

 

I went with the processor by re-Q and it made an incredible difference. I originally wired the factory HU through my Pioneer amp which allowed for splicing the speaker leads into it. The sound was OK, but nothing like the difference the re-Q made. Sometimes I can't believe I still have the factory HU.

I believe these processors are a very worthwhile investment for anyone looking to keep the factory look but still have aftermarket sound.

 

The big difference between the JL and RF is that the user has to have a good understanding of electronics because the RF controls more of the frequency wave via through the user.The 3Sixty.2 initially sets a flat equalization curve, which cancels any factory tone preset and compensates for deficiencies in your factory stereo's sound processing. After that, you get up to 153 bands of equalization to adjust — 31 bands each for the front left and right speakers, 27 bands each for the rear left and right speakers, 27 bands for a center channel if you have one, and 10 bands for your subwoofer.

The CleanSweep is simple to use. Once you've connected it, pop the included CD into your stereo, and the CleanSweep corrects the equalization in as little as 20 seconds. You don't have to adjust anything — the CleanSweep utilizes its built-in 120-band digital equalizer automatically, without the need for external control devices.

It comes down to how precise your music tastes are.

 

Metra Tech support told me you can't use that combination of cables to do exactly what you propose. Apparently the first doesn't have all the pins wired out. What they recommended was that I buy a BT-5520 which is intended for use with their Parrot bluetooth device. I've got the cable in hand now and it requires only minor modification to work:

Most of the pins are wired straight through. Purple, white, gray and green pairs that go into the black connectors are speaker level signals from the HU and to speakers. Red, black and yellow should be clipped from the black connectors and connected to each other so they just go straight through (red to red, etc.) The wires (blue, blue/white, green/white, orange/white, brown) that jumper between the two black connectors are part of the Parrot system and should be eliminated.

Plus it only cost me $17 on Ebay.

 

Yeah i heard that it was a bit hit and miss ajusting the RF via the bluetooth and that you really need some audio test equipment to get the best out of it. The only issue i see with the JL system is it only has 4 channels and i really want to do the sub as well. I guess i will look into this some more.

 

my holdback as well with the JL is the sub issue as well