Stereo removal information
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
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Thanks for all of the info. I am impatient when it comes to having a kick-*** sound system, so I went ahead and did my install using the Raptor Line -Out converter, but ordered an MTX re-Q and will swap it out later.
The install was not as bad as I had originally thought. The center stereo console came apart fairly easy, with the two side panels popping off and a few screws to remove. The F150 is very easy to run wiring throughout the cab, thanks to the easily pop off panels.
I mounted the Amp, Bass Cap, and Electronic Crossover behind the rear seat - on the wall.
Removal of the rear seat, was a real pain in the ***, definatly the most difficult task for one person to do. Once the mounting bolts and nuts are removed, there are two latches towards the top, one on each side that hold the seat to the wall, and OMG they were difficult. I did have to cut off some of the rear wall paneling to mount everything. I built a sealed downfiring encolsure for the 2 subs that fit perfectly under the rear seat.
Overall, I am very pleased with the sound. It pounds hardcore and good clean crisp bass. Crank up the bass and rattle the cab. Or tone it down for an awesome sounding system.
Setup:
Raptor Line Out Converter
Audiopipe Cap-150 1.5 Farad
Pyramid Gold CR-66 Electronic Crossover
Kenwood Mono Amp KAC9104D
2- JL Audio 10W1v2-4 in a sealed encolsure
The install was not as bad as I had originally thought. The center stereo console came apart fairly easy, with the two side panels popping off and a few screws to remove. The F150 is very easy to run wiring throughout the cab, thanks to the easily pop off panels.
I mounted the Amp, Bass Cap, and Electronic Crossover behind the rear seat - on the wall.
Removal of the rear seat, was a real pain in the ***, definatly the most difficult task for one person to do. Once the mounting bolts and nuts are removed, there are two latches towards the top, one on each side that hold the seat to the wall, and OMG they were difficult. I did have to cut off some of the rear wall paneling to mount everything. I built a sealed downfiring encolsure for the 2 subs that fit perfectly under the rear seat.
Overall, I am very pleased with the sound. It pounds hardcore and good clean crisp bass. Crank up the bass and rattle the cab. Or tone it down for an awesome sounding system.
Setup:
Raptor Line Out Converter
Audiopipe Cap-150 1.5 Farad
Pyramid Gold CR-66 Electronic Crossover
Kenwood Mono Amp KAC9104D
2- JL Audio 10W1v2-4 in a sealed encolsure
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,798
Likes: 0
Thanks for all of the info. I am impatient when it comes to having a kick-*** sound system, so I went ahead and did my install using the Raptor Line -Out converter, but ordered an MTX re-Q and will swap it out later.
The install was not as bad as I had originally thought. The center stereo console came apart fairly easy, with the two side panels popping off and a few screws to remove. The F150 is very easy to run wiring throughout the cab, thanks to the easily pop off panels.
I mounted the Amp, Bass Cap, and Electronic Crossover behind the rear seat - on the wall.
Removal of the rear seat, was a real pain in the ***, definatly the most difficult task for one person to do. Once the mounting bolts and nuts are removed, there are two latches towards the top, one on each side that hold the seat to the wall, and OMG they were difficult. I did have to cut off some of the rear wall paneling to mount everything. I built a sealed downfiring encolsure for the 2 subs that fit perfectly under the rear seat.
Overall, I am very pleased with the sound. It pounds hardcore and good clean crisp bass. Crank up the bass and rattle the cab. Or tone it down for an awesome sounding system.
Setup:
Raptor Line Out Converter
Audiopipe Cap-150 1.5 Farad
Pyramid Gold CR-66 Electronic Crossover
Kenwood Mono Amp KAC9104D
2- JL Audio 10W1v2-4 in a sealed encolsure
The install was not as bad as I had originally thought. The center stereo console came apart fairly easy, with the two side panels popping off and a few screws to remove. The F150 is very easy to run wiring throughout the cab, thanks to the easily pop off panels.
I mounted the Amp, Bass Cap, and Electronic Crossover behind the rear seat - on the wall.
Removal of the rear seat, was a real pain in the ***, definatly the most difficult task for one person to do. Once the mounting bolts and nuts are removed, there are two latches towards the top, one on each side that hold the seat to the wall, and OMG they were difficult. I did have to cut off some of the rear wall paneling to mount everything. I built a sealed downfiring encolsure for the 2 subs that fit perfectly under the rear seat.
Overall, I am very pleased with the sound. It pounds hardcore and good clean crisp bass. Crank up the bass and rattle the cab. Or tone it down for an awesome sounding system.
Setup:
Raptor Line Out Converter
Audiopipe Cap-150 1.5 Farad
Pyramid Gold CR-66 Electronic Crossover
Kenwood Mono Amp KAC9104D
2- JL Audio 10W1v2-4 in a sealed encolsure
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I did not take pics during the install, but I will take several of the now completed project and post those up soon.
When I ge the re-Q to install, I will have to remove the stereo again, and I will remember to get some more pics.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,798
Likes: 0
I didnt get that panel on the right side all of the way off, but was able to get it popped out enough to pull the center panel.
I did not take pics during the install, but I will take several of the now completed project and post those up soon.
When I ge the re-Q to install, I will have to remove the stereo again, and I will remember to get some more pics.
I did not take pics during the install, but I will take several of the now completed project and post those up soon.
When I ge the re-Q to install, I will have to remove the stereo again, and I will remember to get some more pics.
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
I started a thread asking about a custom T harness before finding this one. Sounds like you might have pulled it off. I ordered the Scosche branded harnesses rather than the Metra, but think I might have the same issue as the Metras when they arrive. How did the BT5520 work out for you? Maybe we could continue the discussion on the new thread since, this was titled Stereo Removal Info.
Did your vehicle have Sync? I'm working with a 2010 Sync/Non Sony Supercrew.
Did your vehicle have Sync? I'm working with a 2010 Sync/Non Sony Supercrew.