2006 4.6 Triton Help
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Joined: Apr 2021
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2006 4.6 Triton Help
Hey guys! Brand new here! Hopeing I can get some ideas on where to look...
So i am getting the p0301 misfire code and totally stumped. Ive replaced the plgs (all 8), and the coil pack AND injector for number 1 cylinder. STILL getting the code. I know a vacuum leak can cause it also. What would be the most likely cause on this engine. Still leaning all the ends and outs of the Triton.
Thanks!
So i am getting the p0301 misfire code and totally stumped. Ive replaced the plgs (all 8), and the coil pack AND injector for number 1 cylinder. STILL getting the code. I know a vacuum leak can cause it also. What would be the most likely cause on this engine. Still leaning all the ends and outs of the Triton.
Thanks!
Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 29
Likes: 2
From: NW Georgia (over yonder)
I would say double check your cylinder numbering and make sure you're checking compression on ACTUAL cylinder number 1; hell, check 'em all. Remember that for Ford, Cylinder number one does NOT mean cylinder furthest forward on the engine, it means top left corner on the engineering drawing.
Ford has always used the ENGINEERING DRAWING CYLINDER NUMBER instead of CRANK JOURNAL POSITION (like everyone else does). Since you have the mod motor 4.6, that means cylinder number one for you is Passenger side, nearest the ALTERNATOR; if you've been on the driver's side, nearest the alternator, in Ford's eyes, that's cylinder number 5....
(Chevy's #1 cylinder position on the LS is cylinder #5 on the Ford mod motor; fun fact)
With a little luck, it'll just be a misnomer, you'll have mis-numbered which coil you've actually replaced, and the new coil relocation will be all you need.
On the other hand-
It might interest you to know that the 2 valve 4.6's have a tendency to ruin valve seats as they age CAUSING UNEXPLAINABLE MISFIRES (hint hint); if this has happened to you, it will need a valve job; which involves removing the heads, having the valves lapped by a machine shop, and new seats pressed in, and a full gasket set. If this is a recent purchase from any firm or person that has decide to offer you a short "warranty" you need to know about this quickly before their "warranty" runs out; because a head job on a 4.6 is NOT a cheap date; paying a shop to do it can pull $2k out of your wallet before you can even blink an eye. On the flip side, if you were like me you either bought the truck for hilarious cheap, and it was enough of a difference that the $2k repair really isn't that big of a deal to you; OR you've had the truck for bloody ever and it's been so good, that it's paid for itself, and a $2k repair really isn't that big of a deal to you.
Either way, I sit here and wish you the best of luck, because I personally believe that I'm likely only a year or so away from having to do such a repair on my truck myself; it's got all of the markers for it.
Best of luck.
Ford has always used the ENGINEERING DRAWING CYLINDER NUMBER instead of CRANK JOURNAL POSITION (like everyone else does). Since you have the mod motor 4.6, that means cylinder number one for you is Passenger side, nearest the ALTERNATOR; if you've been on the driver's side, nearest the alternator, in Ford's eyes, that's cylinder number 5....
(Chevy's #1 cylinder position on the LS is cylinder #5 on the Ford mod motor; fun fact)
With a little luck, it'll just be a misnomer, you'll have mis-numbered which coil you've actually replaced, and the new coil relocation will be all you need.
On the other hand-
It might interest you to know that the 2 valve 4.6's have a tendency to ruin valve seats as they age CAUSING UNEXPLAINABLE MISFIRES (hint hint); if this has happened to you, it will need a valve job; which involves removing the heads, having the valves lapped by a machine shop, and new seats pressed in, and a full gasket set. If this is a recent purchase from any firm or person that has decide to offer you a short "warranty" you need to know about this quickly before their "warranty" runs out; because a head job on a 4.6 is NOT a cheap date; paying a shop to do it can pull $2k out of your wallet before you can even blink an eye. On the flip side, if you were like me you either bought the truck for hilarious cheap, and it was enough of a difference that the $2k repair really isn't that big of a deal to you; OR you've had the truck for bloody ever and it's been so good, that it's paid for itself, and a $2k repair really isn't that big of a deal to you.
Either way, I sit here and wish you the best of luck, because I personally believe that I'm likely only a year or so away from having to do such a repair on my truck myself; it's got all of the markers for it.
Best of luck.