After starting I've received the "check gauges" message along with the wrench light, the battery light, the check engine light, the ABS light and the seatbelt light. After restarting the truck with the AC turned off the problem went away. But it happened again today.

I live in Phoenix and it's close to 108 today and it was hot yesterday as well.

Is this indicative of an alternator getting ready to fail?

 

I would get your charging system fully tested. That means BOTH alternator AND battery.

 

Ok, I checked the battery and it is around 12.2 volts. While cranking the engine the volts drop to around 10 volts and then right back up to 14.2 volts once the alternator comes online.

With the engine running the volts are at 14.2 volts without any accessories turned on. When I turned the lights, radio and AC on the volts dropped to around 13.8 volts.

It appears that both the battery and alternator are working ok?

 

I would still get the alternator and battery tested.

It could be a faulty diode in the alternator.

A good tester for the alternator checks for ripple/waveform and load tests it. Same goes for a battery test. A good battery test will put a heavy load (more than your truck's starter could provide) on the battery and will also calculate the CA.

Lucky for me, there is a place that does this that isn't too far away from me.

 

Go to an auto parts store and have the battery and alternator properly load tested. This isn't something you can do yourself with a simple digital multimeter. They do it free of charge in the parking lot.

 

Ok, I went to O'Reilley's and had them run the electrical test. Both the battery and alternator are in great shape. I think it might be a loose connection and if this keeps occuring I'll uninstall and reinstall the alternator. I would also take it in for a full bench test at the store if I go that route. Does that sound sensible?

 

I know the feeling ... hate when electronics act goofy.

A couple years ago my wife came home from work with our '95 Tbird and the air bag light was on, steady. She said she started the car on a second attempt. The first attempt, she heard a pop.

I went out to investigate, found negative cable end at battery cracked, put new cable end on. pesky light stayed on, checked code, indiction was bad Restraint Control Module Monitoring circuit blew a temp diode in box, Ford wants $400 fore new one. I did more research, ordered 3 from elect supply on line, replaced one that blew, all OK now but I was in a panick there for a spell.

 

I think so, or Advance Auto or Autozone?