PLEASE HELP! Alarm goes off when key is inserted
2005 Lariat Alarm goes off when key is inserted, new factory keys
2005 Lariat 138k 5.4L
Went to leave yesterday morning and when I put my key in the ignition my horn/alarm went off. There was no juice to starter but all internal and external electronics work (lights, radio, power seats, Windows, etc).
So I figured it was the security alarm that shut the truck down. And I tired:
lock/unlocking with fobs & keys
checked all fuses in fuse box, yes all that dealt with power
unhooked battery
Jump start
resetting alarm with micro emergency reset button
I did not test relays.
Since I had a non-factory key during all this I towed the truck to local ford dealer had 2 factory keys cut and programmed. Still wouldn't start and same result when using factory keys. Dealer didn't have time to diagnose it so I towed it back home.
any ideas?
Can I jump around or bypass the starter interrupter wire coming from the security alarm?
When I bought the truck I did not get any factory ford keys.
Went to leave yesterday morning and when I put my key in the ignition my horn/alarm went off. There was no juice to starter but all internal and external electronics work (lights, radio, power seats, Windows, etc).
So I figured it was the security alarm that shut the truck down. And I tired:
lock/unlocking with fobs & keys
checked all fuses in fuse box, yes all that dealt with power
unhooked battery
Jump start
resetting alarm with micro emergency reset button
I did not test relays.
Since I had a non-factory key during all this I towed the truck to local ford dealer had 2 factory keys cut and programmed. Still wouldn't start and same result when using factory keys. Dealer didn't have time to diagnose it so I towed it back home.
any ideas?
Can I jump around or bypass the starter interrupter wire coming from the security alarm?
When I bought the truck I did not get any factory ford keys.
Last edited by Lariatdude81; Jun 30, 2017 at 10:07 PM. Reason: Added info.
If you bought the truck used and don't know its history, you'll need to do some digging. Start by looking under the dash area around the steering wheel to see if you can find any add-on modules that have been installed. If so, you'll need to find the identification tag or sticker to see what it is.
I found where the BSM or VSM is suppose to be located behind the rear drivers seat back. I am about to go and check it out, sounds like a beast to remove.
Underneath the dash I have the following modules
- Remote Start
- Heated seats
- tiny black box about 3"x3" that has ignition wires ran into it (transponder receiver maybe?)
- micro security reset button.
I'll update on the security module and if I am able to by pass it.
Underneath the dash I have the following modules
- Remote Start
- Heated seats
- tiny black box about 3"x3" that has ignition wires ran into it (transponder receiver maybe?)
- micro security reset button.
I'll update on the security module and if I am able to by pass it.
Update
I've located the PATS module (ford part) underneath the dash, they had it tucked back in there and the BSM behind rear seat. So got my door lock code finally. Silver lining there.
So everything is ford parts and systems. Why won't my truck start?
I have 2 new keys the dealer programmed but it still acts like it's stuck in anti theft lockdown mode.
Someone has got to have a guess on this at least.....
I've located the PATS module (ford part) underneath the dash, they had it tucked back in there and the BSM behind rear seat. So got my door lock code finally. Silver lining there.
So everything is ford parts and systems. Why won't my truck start?
I have 2 new keys the dealer programmed but it still acts like it's stuck in anti theft lockdown mode.
Someone has got to have a guess on this at least.....
Solved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SOLVED!
IT WAS THE FUSE BOX.
After jumpering the starter relay (prongs 87 & 30) with a switch it fired right up.
Battery, start, ignition switch, wiring, inline fuse next to battery, DTS or neutral safety switch, relays, and fuses were all good components.
Had power going into fuse box from battery, none going out from relay.
Hope this helps because it was an absolute nightmare to track down.
IT WAS THE FUSE BOX.
After jumpering the starter relay (prongs 87 & 30) with a switch it fired right up.
Battery, start, ignition switch, wiring, inline fuse next to battery, DTS or neutral safety switch, relays, and fuses were all good components.
Had power going into fuse box from battery, none going out from relay.
Hope this helps because it was an absolute nightmare to track down.



