Well, it happened as I knew it would. The time has come to fix the dreaded exhaust leak at the manifold on my 07 5.4 Screw. It's on the passenger side but might as well have both sides done.

I have scavenged the posts and have an idea what it is going to take (I am NOT removing the motor, I am having a shop do it and they assured me they wouldn't have too) but I am looking for input:

1.) I noticed a few posts mentioned new aftermarket headers would prevent it from happening again? What are these and is it true that the new OEM are thicker and won't warp?

2.) I've read the manifolds on the 07 are basically shorty headers? Is this true?

3.) Some threads have mentioned that Long Tube headers will get me more power, while others (KMAC0694) have argued there will be no discernible difference?

Interested in anything you could share.

Thanks.

 

You absolutely do not need to remove the motor. New manifolds are not thicker and 04-08 manifolds are all the same part number. The change they made was to the studs, the studs are made out of a different material to reduce corrosion, rust and breaking. Broken studs are what cause the manifold to warp.

I have have no experience with aftermarket header but I always go OEM when I can. Dont buy dorman manifolds or dorman anything.

Whoever does the manifold make make sure they torque the nuts. I don't always torque nuts or bolts but this step is important in this case.

Hardest part is getting the broken studs out. BUT there are a couple really good companies that make it a whole heck of a lot easier. Buying a drill guide and giving it to the shop is also something you should think about. A lot of shops and even dealer don't have these tools and tell you they need to remove the cylinder head to drill out the stud but that is so not neccesary. My dealer told me they hire a guy to laser out the stud ( never heard of this before) and just to get the guy to the shop was $500. I did it myself, bought a drill guide, mortorcraft manifold kit off eBay, took me 6 ish hours and about $500.

Good of luck and let us know how it goes

 

The conclusion to all this was I went with an OEM motorcraft replacement header.

The only change I made was the guy who did it for me used Grade 8 Alloy bolts to put it back on. He is highly experienced and maintains several companies' fleets, made up of many of these trucks; so I trust him.

He explained that they will not rust and break off, so WHEN the issue repeats, the swap becomes simple with a breaker bar. He even ceramic coated it for me to keep it rust free and prolong the life of it.

Runing good.... and quiet... again.

 

thanks for the followup.

 

I just had my 06 passenger side manifold done at the dealer, they broke two bolts getting the old one off and did not have to remove the head or pull the motor to drill them out. Nice and quiet again.
$670.00 parts and labor.

 

Good to hear.