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Dman81 Dman81 is offline


About Me

  • About Dman81
  • Signature

    Superchips Programmer
    Tuxedo Tonneau Cover.
    GOTTS Mod
    F-150 Bug shield
    Touchscreen Radio
    Backup Camera


Total Posts
Visitor Messages
General Information
  • Last Activity: 12-12-2018 02:41 AM
  • Join Date: 05-20-2011

Visitor Messages

Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 5 of 5
  1. 10-02-2014 11:07 PM
    Okay, I just didn't want to seem condescending or something. Yup! That's exactly it. Measuring from the center of the wheel, or top of the center cap, or ground to the highest point (middle) of the fender works. Just whatever you find easier to do. And of course do it on the flattest ground you can find. It's good to do both sides also. My driver side is 1/2" taller than my pass. side haha.
  2. 10-02-2014 02:18 PM
    So I'd rather do the 2 + 3 versus 2 + 4, but it all depends on what you want. sorry for writing so much, just trying to make sure I'm being completely clear. Because every truck is different, and leaf springs sag over time, I'd go out and measure the exact difference in height from front to back, then make my decision based on that.

    Autospring sells 2 or 2.5" levels together with 3" blocks for a good price. Best company out there for these products, in my opinion, while also being one of the least expensive. This is exactly what I had on my truck before it was lifted:


    Just tell them you have a 4x4 and they'll send you the right stuff.
  3. 10-02-2014 02:18 PM
    I put 2" lift blocks in the back, which raised mine 2" over stock. For yours, I'd do a 3" (maybe 3.5" if you can find them) block in the back instead of 4" because 4" might be too much and look goofy because you'd be adding rake. 3" blocks with a 2" level would retain much of the factory rake, but lose approximately 5/8" of rake.

    If you want 4" blocks, I'd be more inclined to do a 2.5" level.

    For mine, 2" in front adds 2" lift, 2" blocks adds 2" of lift. 2"-2" = zero rake change, so it maintains all rake.

    For you, 2" in front adds 2" of lift, 3" block in the back add 1 3/8" of lift. (3" - 1 5/8" from factory block). Therefore you lose 5/8" of rake (2" - 1 3/8" = 5/8"). 4" blocks (4"- 1 5/8" = 2 3/8") add an additional 3/8" of rake (2 3/8" - 2" = 3/8").
  4. 09-27-2014 12:14 PM
    My truck is 2WD, and I did 2" level in the front and 2" level in the back. This should make both the front and rear 2" taller. So mine sat almost exactly how a 4x4 did. If you have a 4x4, you already have a 1 5/8" blocks in the rear, so getting 3" blocks would give a similar effect.
  5. 06-28-2011 10:33 PM
    Thanks on the compliments. I have had my clear bra on the truck for 2 years now and have no complaints on it. I can't tell that it has yellowed any at all, but my truck is black so it might be difficult to tell. I can tell you that it is best to start in the middle of the truck and work to the edges in my opinion. You do have to stretch the material a little bit to make it all line up with all of the body lines. A good install shop should probably know the tricks, but a little heat helps the material stretch. It has stuck very well to date and for the cost I figured I could replace it every 2 - 3 years if I wanted compared to the 3M film custom installed.

    Good luck and let me know how you like it when it is installed.

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