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I suppose i'll start from the beginning explaining the problem, then i'll get into what i've done thus far and hopefully y'all might be able to shed some light on this situation.
I hopped in my truck after it sat while i was out of town for 10 days to run to the store for cold beverages, and on the way back, my truck started shuttering at a high frequency. When i got to a light, the idle was lower than normal and bouncy. i put the truck in 1st to run it up the RPMs to see if the shutter changed, and it was consistent through the RPM range.
Now, when i let off the gas while in 1st to let the RPMs drop without it shifting to a higher gear, i could her a pop out of the exhaust a few times. It's worth noting that it has never done this before. My exhaust set up is stock cats to a magnaflow. The pop wasn't a full backfire, but a lower, softer pop.
So i pulled it into the garage and got out and listened, under the hood sounded normal, no loud air noises or loose spark plug ticking sounds. i went to the tail pipe and the exhaust was rough sounding with a large puff of 'air' every half second or so. i shut it down and didn't mess with it anymore.
The next day, i hop in the truck to go to work..... turns over but doesn't start. i tried twice holding for a second or so longer than it usually takes to start.
When i turned the key to on and the fuel pump kicked on, it sounded a bit different. i could be psyching myself out because i'm looking for something wrong, but i'm pretty sure it was a noisier, unhealthy sounding fuel pump rather than the nice whine it normally makes.
What i've done thus far is plug in a new fuel pump driver module. the fuel pump sounded the same and when i went to start, it rolled over a couple times and the battery died. pulled the other car over to jump and it turn over once or twice and now won't turn over at all... hydrolocked??? i hope not.
So, do i have a stuck open injector on my hands? How do i diagnose a bad injector with a volt meter?
Do i need to pull every plug and release the pressure on the potentially locked up cylinder?
I haven't put a code reader on it yet as i don't have one and can't get it to the Advance Zone store for someone to read the trouble codes.
Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks for reading! i hope i've armed you with as much information you might need.
Went to cylinder 3 and it was full of gas when i pulled the plug. turned the motor over to blow it out. When i did this, it sounded like another cylinder locked. And it now wont turn over anymore.
Is it this easy to hydrolock a motor that will turn over but not start? It locked after maybe 1 sec of turning over.
Are all the injectors flooding the engine to hydrolock each cylinder as they come up for the compression stroke??
You need to pull all the plugs and see if it will turn over, hopefully it's not too late, you may have bent a rod. I'd also pull all the injectors and get them bench checked and rebuilt or replaced if you are going to try to get that engine running.
That was my next step. How can i turn the motor over and disable the ignition and injectors?
Also, i'm familiar with the CSP 07M08 Extended warranty program. My truck is a 2006 with a build date of 11/2005. When i went to look at which motorcraft injectors are compatible with my truck, the part number for the 2005 model came up since my build date is before 12/2005. Does that mean i have the faulty injectors on my 2006? if so, do you think a dealer would honor the extended warranty program? i'm at 119k miles too. just in time if they honor it.
Does anyone know if there could be another reason the motor would flood the combustion chambers other than faulty injectors? I find it odd that more than one failed at the exact same time to cause 2 hydrolocks on different cylinders consecutively.