Hi all, I just replaced my Ford factory remote start, with enhanced keyless entry apparently, with a new 2 way remote start/alarm combo.

I found a couple of things that I wondered if anyone else worked around.

The wiring diagrams show no need to hook up the factory arm/disarm wires from the new remote start, but the Ford one was hooked to those wires as shown in the Ford install instructions.
Disarm goes to Driver Door unlock motor, arm went to the lock motor. I am assuming this was just to arm and disarm the Ford RMST systems starter kill feature? So no need to do that on my new one since it is controlled via an external relay?

I also found I lost my perimeter lighting feature when I installed the new one. If I unlock the doors with the starters remote the lights do not come on, but if I use the factory one they do. My remote start doesn't have a domelight wire, so I am not sure if there is something I can pulse on the factory side to light those up?

As for the door pins, the documents say to diode isolate all the doors and hook them up, but on the Ford one, it shows the door ajar switch input tied to the domelight wire. Could I just do that to monitor the doors with one wire and no diodes?

Thanks

 

I'm about to install a Code Alarm remote start in my 2004. Which remote start are you installing?

For the install directions I have, there is no factory disarm on the truck(per Direct Wire), just a factory arm(which is 2 wires going to the BCM). The door locks will just lock/unlock the truck, not arm/disarm anything. Don't believe me just sit inside your truck with the keys out and use the switch, you'll see what happens. The ONLY way I see to use the factory disarm feature is to sequence the keypad input to the BCM, which can be done with an FPGA. For the PATS bypass, you need a module like PKALL or FLCAN, I am using FLCAN. This connects to the cars CANbus. If your using a ford OEM remote start maybe you don't need it, not sure.

For the exterior and perimeter lights, this is a function of the truck's "disarm" feature, which from what I've seen is only controlled directly by the BCM(which gets the command from the factory keyfob or the factory keypad). There are a few ways you can get the function of this function(turn on interior lights/auto headlights for 30 seconds), but it is not that straight forward like using a few wires. I am planning to do this to my truck, and it requires 1-2 relays(Have to power the auto headlights/interior lights and also put the photocell for the auto headlights in series, some relay logic). If you don't care that the headlights go on during the day(not using photocell), then it would be just using one relay, easy. I am confused about you saying there is an arm/disarm wire?? Can you email me the schematic so I can take a look? The disarm (from my schematic) would require you do drive 2 inputs to ground on the BCM simultaneously, and they have to be diode isolated as well)

For the door triggers, my directions say to use the separate doors and diode isolate. What you mention using the door ajar switch would work in theory, I might try that.

Also, do you happen to have the schematic install diagram you wired too? I would like another one to bounce off of mine and to see if there really is an arm/disarm trigger to the BCM bhawalka@optonline.net

Also check this out:
http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?...ord&model=F150

Give me your email I'll send you the Direct Wire list if you want it.

Appreciate it.

 

I am installing an Ultra Start 4265. I am reusing the existing bypass module, assuming it still works.

What I might do to get the lights to come on is to have the disarm wire from my alarm pulse the door pin, then the car would think the door opened and light things up. Maybe. Or I will just stay in the dark.

 

That won't work, I tested it. The way you can test this is sit in the truck, lock the truck, and wait for the truck to arm.

Then open the door, just the interior illumination will work, headlights WILL NOT.

Back to my question, did you get the factory DISARM to work? I assume the answer is NO because your headlights don't come on.......

 

That is ok, the biggest reason I wanted to keep my illuminated entry is I use it to power my bed lighting, and if I lose the ability to turn it on from the fob I will be disappointed.

I actually just found this in my programming instructions, I might be able to get away with using this, wire my trunk release wire into the dome light circuit, just not sure if it will handle the voltage




2-RED/WHITE Trunk Release(-) - Programmable output. Hold the button for 3 seconds, output will stay active (max 5 seconds) or programmable (-)park light.



Setting 2 Parking Light/Trunk Output (14 pin auxiliary connector, pins 2&8)
1) 30 sec. Output 1 Flash/Chirp On for 30 seconds when is pressed


Bah, the dome light wire on my diagram is Positive.

 

The FORD schematics you sent me, it has the diagram with the relay on how to make the headlights work, and you could also tie the dome lights to it.

Look on page 224. You would use an output to switch a relay for the headlights, and also the dome lights. That would work 100%. And yes you are right, the headlights and dome lights are positive, you need a RELAY to get these to work. This would be exactly what you want.

As for me, I work at an engineering department and having one of the EE's that to PCB board design make me an interface to the BCM that mimicks the keypad. So, when I command this circuit to do a "unlock", it will tell the BCM to disarm the system(by putting in the code sequence) which will unlock all the doors, put on the interior illumination, and also put on the auto headlights for 30 seconds. I also will use this to mimic the factory arm, which will lock all doors, and put out all lights. This requires a PLA chip programmed, some logic shifters, and a timer circuit on a custom board. But then I get 100% factory features as the remote start will just tell the BCM to do all the work, kind of like using a CANbus.

 

Another option, not as clean but would work.

Take your factory FOB apart, and use the outputs from your alarm/remote start and have them actuate the FOB lock/unlock. This would work because it commands the BCM directly. Would require 2 relays(probably small solid state ones).

 

I thought about it for a while and I figured out how I was going to do it. I will use a standard relay, and take the remote starts parking light/aux power output and connect it to the dome lights, then change the trunk release to ground 30 seconds on with unlock. That will do exactly what the factory one does now, minus the headlights. I have HID's so the headlights not coming on is ok.