07 F150 spark plug replacement questions
07 F150 spark plug replacement questions
Hey guys, Im going to attempt to replace my spark plugs/COP's this week but I have a few questions/concerns.
I plan to spray out the engine bay with compressed air and remove the COP's tonight and spray some Kroil oil into the cylinder holes.
Tomorrow Ill crack plugs lose a 1/4" turn and add a little more kroil oil. I Depending on how they turn I might attempt to extract them out later in the evening but will probably let them sit another 24 hrs.
Hopefuly I remove them all without any issue but a buddy does have the lisle tool if I need it.
* My main concern is with left over kroil oil in the cylinder head. Do I have to worry about this? Should I crank the engine over without any spark plugs to clear the cylinder?
PS- I plan to change the oil when Im all finished.
Thanks for any help/tips
I plan to spray out the engine bay with compressed air and remove the COP's tonight and spray some Kroil oil into the cylinder holes.
Tomorrow Ill crack plugs lose a 1/4" turn and add a little more kroil oil. I Depending on how they turn I might attempt to extract them out later in the evening but will probably let them sit another 24 hrs.
Hopefuly I remove them all without any issue but a buddy does have the lisle tool if I need it.
* My main concern is with left over kroil oil in the cylinder head. Do I have to worry about this? Should I crank the engine over without any spark plugs to clear the cylinder?
PS- I plan to change the oil when Im all finished.
Thanks for any help/tips
I see that but lots of people have still went with kroil with good or if not better results than carb cleaner.
Forget all that prep and run a couple tanks of techron cleaner, and remove the plugs from a full temp engine with an impact wrench.
If you desire not to use impact, the only thing you will want to do is a fresh oil change afterwards to remove the Kroil.
If you desire not to use impact, the only thing you will want to do is a fresh oil change afterwards to remove the Kroil.
I followed the TSB using carb cleaner a few months back, broke EVERY plug.
Search my user name and spark plugs, you'll see my saga.
Anyway, I think I did two things wrong:
1)I did it when it was sub 20 degrees outside, I should have waited for higher temps
2)I probably would try the impact method next time like Darren stated, at least, I would try it on ONE plug that is easily accessible and see what happens.
In my case, I ended up using the Lisle on every plug, and some plugs the ceramic and electrodes just fell apart and fell into the cylinders. Long story short, had the truck towed to the dealer and $600 later it's fixed. Dealer had to bore scope every cylinder and remove debris inside.
On a side note, the dealer wanted about $600 for the change, so, whatever I'm not too salty about it.
Brian
Search my user name and spark plugs, you'll see my saga.
Anyway, I think I did two things wrong:
1)I did it when it was sub 20 degrees outside, I should have waited for higher temps
2)I probably would try the impact method next time like Darren stated, at least, I would try it on ONE plug that is easily accessible and see what happens.
In my case, I ended up using the Lisle on every plug, and some plugs the ceramic and electrodes just fell apart and fell into the cylinders. Long story short, had the truck towed to the dealer and $600 later it's fixed. Dealer had to bore scope every cylinder and remove debris inside.
On a side note, the dealer wanted about $600 for the change, so, whatever I'm not too salty about it.
Brian
I should also mention that I will not need to drive my truck, unless pulling the boat or trailer and I don't plan on doing that anytime soon so I could let the kroil or carb cleaner work for even longer if anyone thinks thats a good idea.
Darren and Hawk- Im definitely not ruling out using an impact but Im not going to lie, it does kind of scare me. I guess Ide rather "feel" the plugs going out as I would then know when to stop. For those that used a Makita electric, are you using the smaller impact that comes with the drill in the kits you can buy or are you using the beefier one meant for breaking lug nuts loose that is sold for around $200 w/out a battery? I also have a 1/2" pmuematic that I could use as well.
Thanks
Darren and Hawk- Im definitely not ruling out using an impact but Im not going to lie, it does kind of scare me. I guess Ide rather "feel" the plugs going out as I would then know when to stop. For those that used a Makita electric, are you using the smaller impact that comes with the drill in the kits you can buy or are you using the beefier one meant for breaking lug nuts loose that is sold for around $200 w/out a battery? I also have a 1/2" pmuematic that I could use as well.
Thanks
Last edited by mgp32; Apr 6, 2015 at 03:26 PM.
. It deadlocked for a few minutes, then hardens back up as it dries. You need to listen to what is being said. The impact method is far more successful. That is what most real mechanics use to extract them. Do s search in this site and you will see it has become the preferred successful method.
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Jim
Jim
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. It deadlocked for a few minutes, then hardens back up as it dries. You need to listen to what is being said. The impact method is far more successful. That is what most real mechanics use to extract them. Do s search in this site and you will see it has become the preferred successful method.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-18...04CW/203331073
and this is the pnuematic impact
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2...4480/203458750
What should I use?
. It deadlocked for a few minutes, then hardens back up as it dries. You need to listen to what is being said. The impact method is far more successful. That is what most real mechanics use to extract them. Do s search in this site and you will see it has become the preferred successful method.
And yeah, the clowns were right this time.
You can see my impact in the thread. Move quickly and get them all out while the engine is still hot. The one I had break engine was cooling off and I attempted to get back there without the impact.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...s-55-56-a.html
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...s-55-56-a.html
Has there been any reports of the threads stripping out in the head using an impact?
Also, Do you think it would be a dumb idea to replace 1 side and then start it back up to get up to temp and then do the other side so it doesnt cool down too much?
Also, Do you think it would be a dumb idea to replace 1 side and then start it back up to get up to temp and then do the other side so it doesnt cool down too much?
Thanks for all the help guys I appreciate it. I figured I would update you all here quick. I was successfuly able to remove all 8 plugs with only 2 breaking (#5 and #8). I was able to use my 1/4" makita impact (with a 3/8" socket attachment) on all of them besides #8. The good thing is, only the bottom electrode strap piece stuck in so it was very easy to remove. I didnt get time to throw in the new plugs and COP's last night but will finish up this evening. Im just glad I got that step out of the way







