Ya.

If that vac line was off then ya 4x4 would have been locked in.

Hope that solves ya problem.

 

See I have no idea about vehicles, but now that you posted about 4Hi and such, I have a 2 wheel drive truck. That being said, yes it is like a grinding noise, or more of a very hard pinging noise kinda, it is very hard to explain really as it sounds different in my cab, and different on the outside of the vehicle. But yes, I take it the IWE deals with the 4wd and not 2wd vehicles. Got my hopes up I been dealing with this problem for going on 2 weeks now, and if it persist I suppose I will just go to the dealership and have them look into it for me for the 79 dollars for a absolute diagnosis, then try to fix the problem my self perhaps... :-/ But waiting on what people think about that also

 

hmm a pinging sound? Like a diesel? That may have something to do with the cam phaser issue these trucks have.. search the forums for that and see if you find the source of your troubles.. $79 is not bad for a full diagnostics

 

Yea, but then again thats if they can find the actually problem :P
And i would actually just say more of a stalling noise not a pinging, thats not a good description sorry.
But I actually just had my cam phasers, cam tensioners, and timing guides the whole nine yards replaces with new chains and it just started after all this was done, I had a short on one of my cam positioning sensors and since then it has got better, but regardless I am hijacking here I am sorry for it man, please keep me updated, if it is not your iwe maybe it has something to do with the same thing, I hope it is what you think it is though!

 

Well the vac line was definitely off completely.. the truck didn't start completely one night when I turned the key.. my fingers just slipped off the key while I was turning it and it just stalled out.. anyways my point is there was what seemed like a backfire and some smoke from under the hood. Because of where the smoke came from - firewall/intake manifold area - I guess that's where this smoke came from. Just a bad *** backfire and back pressure which blew that line right off and probably wrecked both my actuators at the same time because the grinding sound wasn't present BEFORE that happened.

I managed to get the truck started but the actuator grinding and rough idle started immediately after that. Actuators were fixed and grinding is gone but with that vac line off there's a lot of unmetered air getting in past the MAF so while the truck runs 'fine' at regular driving speeds, at idle it just wants to stall out.

With bank 1/2 lean codes everyone suggested a vacuum leak.. well.. I found it

Let's hope that's all that's wrong here.. I will update again tomorrow after I get the vac line pushed on completely.

 

So far haven't been able to get my hands far enough down to push this damn plug back on Anyone have any suggestions.. I really don't want to pull the intake manifold off!!

Ugh.. hate having big hands..

 

Use a long hose pliers. What does the rubber end look like? All messed up? If so I think I would buy a new hose and just pull the intake and take care of it for good.

 

The rubber is in good condition actually. I was surprised. A little bit of wear but it's definitely in re-usable condition.

I'm going to get my girlfriend (skinny arms and little hands) to reach down there for me to see if she can push it on all the way - otherwise my son might have some luck.

I was thinking of what you suggested - some pliers - or a ratchet with a socket on it that would be just a bit too small for the rounded end of the plug and then push it on. I have a pretty long ratchet that would fit down there. That might be the most effective way to get some leverage I'm thinking so will give that a shot tomorrow when it's light out.

If all else fails.. the intake comes off.. and replacement of all the gaskets which would definitely take care of any other potential vacuum leaks I've got.. I might just do that anyways for the sake of keeping myself busy.

 

Partial success *I think* ..

What I used was the metal rod from a calking gun - has an 80* bend on one end so I wiggled that bastard down behind the firewall and using my camera positioned the bent end onto the top of the 90* vac line fitting and just gave the end of the rod a push towards the firewall and I could see the vac line pop a bit further onto the inlet.. it was almost anti-climactic ..

Anyways I ran the truck to warm and then took it for a little drive. The rpms dipped a bit when coming to a stop but it didn't stall out. I'm going to assume for now that the computer is relearning and it will come to some sort of an agreement with itself about what's going on!

Damn.. let's hope this is all the trouble with this for now.

I will update again if something doesn't go right and then it'll be possibly removal of intake and replacement of all gaskets. Will be cleaning the TB this weekend as that probably should be done.

Thanks everyone for sitting through this with me!

Cheers
Ty

 

SUCCESS!

Removed PCM fuse and let the truck sit for about 30 minutes. Put fuse back in and let idle for about 10 minutes then drove it for another 10 minutes.. idle is perfect and zero stalls at red lights..

I want to thank you all for working through this with me. This problem could have been resolved if I'd tugged on that IWE vacuum line in the first place back in January. I would have immediately known it had come off and fixed the problem without dumping $1000 into tools and labor.

That all being said - I've learned a LOT about this truck and feel confident I can communicate with this group in a positive helpful manner.

Thank you all again..
Ty

 

Very nice glad to find out you havr ypour problem figured out man

 

This is one awesome forum, doing some research on the site lead me to this thread, my truck did the exact same thing as tsevrens, I would like to thank tsevrens for all the info posted on this problem. I was able to reconnect the vacuum connector behind the intake manifold be removing the left side fuel rail so I could get my hand between the firewall and the engine. Again thanks to this site I didn't have to go to the stealer.

SCain
2004 FX4

 

I have a 2004 F150 5.4 3V with the exact same problem. Runs great until hot and then won't idle at all. No codes. I traced the lines that Ty found loose at the back of the manifold but mine are attached and the fitting "feels" OK. As it is not visible and tough to reattach I haven't pulled it off to visually inspect yet. However while tracing the lines back I found that one of the two vacuum lines in one of the two sheaths isn't connected to anything. See pic:

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/vc3zqezow...I_XatgHI8v2Bra

Does anyone have a diagram for the vacuum lines or know where this might go? Here is where the other line in this sheath goes:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pf3lpkwbpvk0jeh/Valve.jpg

While doing the troubleshooting I found that the line that the large vacuum line that connects to the intake manifold and goes to a servo valve had become porous and was leaking like a sieve. I thought that this would be the culprit but no change after replacing it. Pics:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2rnedpwxn0...20hose%202.jpg

Thanks,

Bob

 

So I did more research and found that the part in question is the Vacuum Solenoid Valve for the 4X4 hubs and the open line is the vent. I did a smoke test and the only place that leaked smoke was this solenoid. I'm not sure how this actually functions, but the hubs lock and plugging the vacuum line did not fix the stalling problem.

I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body and replaced the fuel and air filter with no change.

More details on the problem: Truck starts up and idles fine when cold. It runs OK but has some hesitation at low RPMs while warming up. As soon as the temp gauge hits the middle, the truck will stall when coming to a stop. It can be started and runs a little rough between 1k and 2K RPMs. Above 2K it runs OK.

If you shift into neutral before you come to a stop it will usually maintain a rough idle around 500 RPMs. As soon as you shift into gear it will stall unless you rev it up around 1k RPM.

At this point I can only think of two more things to try. I will order a MAF sensor and if that doesn't fix it I'll replace the throttle body. After that it will be a trip to the dealer. Again, there are no codes being thrown.

Perplexed,

Bob

 

It's been a while since I posted and what a debacle. I had my local mechanic try to diagnose and he couldn't figure it out. He thought it was serious and recommended I take it back to the shop that did the rebuild. I did and after three weeks of poking around they said the problem was that an idler pulley on the timing cover had gone bad and wore a groove through the cover and was rubbing on the timing chain. They had already replaced the VCT solenoids. As wild as this sounded I was willing to believe it.

They drained the oil and said they found metal and some scoring on the main bearings. They recommended changing the main bearings, oil pump and said the timing chains, phasers and cams looked fine.

It took forever to get the timing cover and after a month in the shop and $2000 I got the call to pick it up. It started up and idled fine but that was the case when I dropped it off. It was only after it got to full operating temp did it run rough and stall before. On the way home as it warmed up it felt sluggish at first but didn't stall. By the time I got home an home later it was running like crap. No power. When you accelerate it barely moves when it shifts to second gear. You have to push the accelerator almost to the floor and then it suddenly takes off like a rocket.

It is throwing P0022, P0305, P0171, P0345 and P0316 codes. It's clear from the codes that the timing is retarded but it is also clear that the VCT isn't adjusting right. It doesn't stall but runs rough at idle. The gas mileage in down to 8 mpg. I called the shop and they said it must be a catalytic convertor which is unbelievably lame. I don't trust them to ever get this right and will take it to the Ford dealer next week and let them take their turn raping me.

I just wanted to fill everyone in on what is the most frustrating repair situation I've ever had. Owning a vehicle that is so complicated that only a dealer can fix it is crazy. I just hope that they can fix it so that I can sell it and never buy another one. More likely, they'll say it needs new cams, chains, followers and phasers. Which is was what blew up on the first engine at 105k.

With the engine and rear end replacement (Loud whine at 55 MPH), I now have about $10k in repairs for the 30k miles I've driven it. What a lemon.