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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 02:37 PM
  #1  
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From: League City, Texas
Hunting and gathering...

Okay so I have started the parts collection to get the truck back together the way it should be... So far I have...

B&M Transmission drain plug kit. Ordered from Amazon.
New Transtar torque converter, filter and gasket, and seal kit. Ordered, need to pick up.
3 qts Mercon V (All I could get, need to run out to another shop to get more)
7qts Mobil1 5w20.
2 gallons Anti Freeze. As long as I flush the system from the OE anti freeze I should have no problems using Ethylene Glycol should I?
K&N filter recharge kit (cleaner and oil...)
PB Blaster. (I believe that replace Aerokroil for the plug change on the TSB did it not?

What I have left to order / obtain?
Fuel filter.
Serpentine belt
Upper & lower radiator hoses.
4 quarts Mercon ATF for the transfer case. Double check, I think I have the type and QTY wrong which is why I didn't buy yet... I believe the Power Steering system requires the same type fluid, grab an extra quart or two just to be safe...
Heater hose.
Hose clamps.
Diff gaskets and gear oil. Look up specs in the book...
Motorcraft oil filter. The shop I went to was out of stock on my particular model filter. I am going to pick up spares as well..
Brake fluid. Double check, but I believe DOT3 is what Ford specifies. I will grab a quart of the stuff once I verfiy what I am going for...
8 @ Motorcraft SP515 I believe, spark plugs...


I am also starting to get annoyed with how the frame / diffs / steering knuckles look and want to paint them. But I don't particularly want to disassemble the whole truck to do it... I was thinking something I could brush on that would self level / even up... Would POR15 work for that?

As you may recall, the jobs at hand are...

Transmission fluid leak. We believe it is the front oil seal as the fluid is coming out from the bell housing. We are replacing the converter just to be safe thinking that possibly an out of balance converter could be what is trashing the seal...

100K mile service. As I understand the book that means...
Transmission fluid change.
Transfer case fluid change.
Differential lubricant change.
Power Steering fluid change.
Brake fluid change.
Belts & hoses.
Cooling system flush & fill.
Spark plugs.

The following was done 4K miles ago.

#1. New tires.
#2. New upper control arms and lower ball joints.
#3. New Rancho Quicklift Loaded and RS9000xl shocks.
#4. New brake rotors and pads
#5. Mobil1 oil change.
#6. Reset the tune from the XCal. Not sure when I did it, but apparently at some point I pulled the program and went back to stock. I am now at the perf / towing tune. I actually seem to get better MPG on this than the econ tune...

Is there anything I am missing?
 

Last edited by dbhost; Jan 17, 2014 at 02:46 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 03:20 PM
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Use Mercon V for all applications that specify ATF.

Technically, carburetor cleaner is what has replaced Kroil in the TSB. However, refer to my reply in your other thread.

Any name brand ethylene glycol coolant may be used after flushing out the factory long life coolant. However, you will need 3 gallons.

Diffs don't use gaskets, you use RTV. Rear takes 75W140 synthetic (plus a bottle of Ford modifier if you have a factory LS) and the front takes 80W90 conventional, you may use 75W90 synthetic if you want.

Standard DOT3 brake fluid.

You need high temperature nickel antiseize and dielectric grease for the plug change, plus access to a Lisle tool. I would highly recommend that you run a few bottles of Techron through the gas before attempting a plug change.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 03:59 PM
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From: League City, Texas
Originally Posted by glc
Use Mercon V for all applications that specify ATF.

Technically, carburetor cleaner is what has replaced Kroil in the TSB. However, refer to my reply in your other thread.

Any name brand ethylene glycol coolant may be used after flushing out the factory long life coolant. However, you will need 3 gallons.

Diffs don't use gaskets, you use RTV. Rear takes 75W140 synthetic (plus a bottle of Ford modifier if you have a factory LS) and the front takes 80W90 conventional, you may use 75W90 synthetic if you want.

Standard DOT3 brake fluid.

You need high temperature nickel antiseize and dielectric grease for the plug change, plus access to a Lisle tool. I would highly recommend that you run a few bottles of Techron through the gas before attempting a plug change.
Hmmm. Been so long since I opened a diff, I guess I forgot about that... Literally over 20 years...

Okay, so I am trying to source a grand total of 24 quarts Mercon V, paritally to have some extra on hand. That should work with the T-case and power steering as well?

I have the anti sieze and dielectric grease, sorry, didn't mention it...

I have run Techron through every tankful since 92K miles.

I will grab the carb cleaner tonight... Along with ATF...
 
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 04:12 PM
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Pick up a new trans filter. (No it's not a screen - even MK says that) Will not hurt to change it.

Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
Have you opened a filter from a 4R70W?
It isn't a screen. It has a paper filter media just like an engine oil filter.

Mark
I cut one open once - of course, no one believed me it was a filter, lol

(4R70W same as 4R75E filter-wise - MC FT-105)

Pick up new boots ( Napa has Belden for ~$4 each. ) They come with new connector springs.

MGD
 

Last edited by MGDfan; Jan 17, 2014 at 04:25 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Pick up a new trans filter. (No it's not a screen - even MK says that) Will not hurt to change it.



I cut one open once - of course, no one believed me it was a filter, lol

(4R70W same as 4R75E filter-wise - MC FT-105)

Pick up new boots ( Napa has Belden for ~$4 each. ) They come with new connector springs.

MGD
Already on order, and listed.. Just need to go and pick them up...
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 05:45 PM
  #6  
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From: League City, Texas
B&M Transmission drain plug kit. Ordered from Amazon.
New Transtar torque converter, filter and gasket, and seal kit. Ordered, need to pick up.
22 qts Mercon V.
7qts Mobil1 5w20.
Motorcraft oil filter and spare.
3 gallons ethylene glycol anti freeze.
K&N filter recharge kit (cleaner and oil...)
PB Blaster.
Carburetor and choke cleaner.
Quart DOT 4 brake fluid.

What I have left to order / obtain?
Fuel filter.
Serpentine belt
Upper & lower radiator hoses.
Heater hose.
Hose clamps.
Gear oil.
8 @ Motorcraft SP515 I believe.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2014 | 07:18 PM
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How about adding new pulley and tensioner bearings since you'll have the belt off? Very inexpensive, and easy to swap - no need to buy complete new pulleys.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...light=bearings

MGD
 
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Old Jan 20, 2014 | 01:09 PM
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Well, I now have all the parts and supplies needed for the transmission repair in hand, and actually in the cab of the truck. Likewise, I believe I have everything on hand needed for...

#1. Spark plug change except for the plugs themselves.
#2. Power steering fluid change.
#3. Brake fluid change.
#4. Cooling system flush and fill. However I want to do hoses at the same time.

To get everything done, I have yet to pick up...
What I have left to order / obtain?
Fuel filter.
Serpentine belt
Tensioner and idler pulleys.
Upper & lower radiator hoses.
Heater hose.
Hose clamps.
Gear oil.
8 @ Motorcraft SP515 I believe.

Aside from the fuel filter, there isn't any of this work that really needs to tie up the lift longer than it should for the transmission... so I can take my time on them...

Going to swing by advance and pick up the motorcraft fuel filter. The rest will need to be ordered. Have some time to fiddle with it, so that is good...
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 07:04 AM
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If that B&M trans pan drain plug kit uses nylon washers, I highly recommend you don't use those and buy some engine oil pan drain plug washers that are metal with a rubber insert. Nylon washers will leak and the metal with rubber inserts do not.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:11 AM
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Or you could buy the U-Haul tranny pan.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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I got a Mag-Hytek trans pan & diff cover on my 08! Luv them both!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2014 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Roadie
If that B&M trans pan drain plug kit uses nylon washers, I highly recommend you don't use those and buy some engine oil pan drain plug washers that are metal with a rubber insert. Nylon washers will leak and the metal with rubber inserts do not.
the B&M is getting welded in...
 
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Old Jan 22, 2014 | 11:50 AM
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Do you have the Lisle tool for the spark plug change? I live in LC as well, so if you need to borrow it, PM me.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 12:51 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Drshovelhead
Do you have the Lisle tool for the spark plug change? I live in LC as well, so if you need to borrow it, PM me.
Yeah, I got it from another member here. Not looking forward to THAT job... Ick!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2014 | 05:15 PM
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It is not as bad as you think. Just have patience and after the first one it is easy. Wait.....I forgot it took me 10 hours to get the fist 3 out. After that it is easy.
 
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