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Transmission Drain Plug 4R75E

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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 05:04 PM
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From: New Orleans
Transmission Drain Plug 4R75E

Hey guys. I'm doing a drain and flush on my transmission. I bought a drain plug from B&M and plan to install it. I see the low point in the pan but was wondering if that might cause any interference with the filter pickup? Any one do it? Should I center it or offset slightly in the low dip?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 06:01 PM
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Roadie's Avatar
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From: Wilmington,NC
I put mine in the flat surface in front of the dip. It appears to be protected from something hitting it closer to the front. I depend on it to drain enough of the fluid that I don't get an oil bath when I remove the pan. I also went to Autozone and bought 2 oil pan drain plug washers that are metal with a rubber insert and used those instead of the nylon washers so it would not leak. Learned the hard way!
 
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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Here's how I do it now, when I first have a pan off.

First, I drill three holes in a piece of 1/8" steel, thread the center one for 1/2-20 thread, drill outer ones at 1/4".

Then I thread a 1/2-20 bolt in it, slip a 1/2-20 nut on the bolt, turn down hand tight only and weld in a couple spots, then after cooling, I remove the bolt.

I pick a spot where I can mount it in the pan, drill the 1/2" hole, mount plate inside, drill other two holes and secure with two 1/2-20 bolts and nuts, tighten, and I peen the threads at the nuts so those small bolts will not loosen up ever.

Then I remove the 1/2" bolt, and install a plug with washer.

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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 12:27 AM
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What's the point of the two smaller bolts?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 06:45 AM
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Extra support?

Plenty of stuff here;

http://www.f150forum.com/f4/transmis...h-pics-206146/
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 12:41 PM
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
Originally Posted by ak_cowboy
What's the point of the two smaller bolts?
I didn't want to try to weld the nut to the thin transmission pans, and this way if ever a thread was stripped, easy to fix or replace. They don't leak at the smaller bolts, they just hold the threaded plate with welded nut in place.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 02:03 PM
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Gotcha, I can see how that works now.

You could also get a Mag-hytec trans pan

http://mag-hytec.com/store/index.php...products_id=12
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 03:06 PM
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Or a factory U-haul trans pan which should fit:

http://www.tascaparts.com/parts/inde...=F8UZ-7A194-AA
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 07:01 PM
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^^ what I did.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 08:09 PM
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Thanks guys. I eyeballed the filter to the pan and centering it didn't interfere with the pickup. Only thing I'm kicking myself in the but about is not using gasket sealer on the threads outside the pan. BTW, saved $250 bucks on the flush. The drain plug was $8. Now I can afford that mag-hytec pan!!!and have a real cheap backup just in case. ;-)
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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From: Wilmington,NC
Originally Posted by jmfox3
Thanks guys. I eyeballed the filter to the pan and centering it didn't interfere with the pickup. Only thing I'm kicking myself in the but about is not using gasket sealer on the threads outside the pan. BTW, saved $250 bucks on the flush. The drain plug was $8. Now I can afford that mag-hytec pan!!!and have a real cheap backup just in case. ;-)
Did you use the metal washers with the rubber insert like I recommended? If you did you don't need gasket sealer on the bolt threads.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 08:19 PM
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Thumbs up

I tig welded a 1/4" thread-o-let onto my pan.



 
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Old Dec 16, 2013 | 07:30 AM
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I did use the rubber insert but I don't think I torqued it correctly so I had a very-very small drip. I took it off again, used a touch of gasket sealer on the outside nut and torqued it down correctly. No drip. Figure the gasket sealer will also help stop the outside nut from turning when I take off the plug. Pretty good $8 upgrade.
 
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