Would they clear without rubbing? , i have a 4x4 with a 2.5 as level

 

Wheels are 10inch wide with 325/60/20 bfg ats

 

I highly doubt it.

 

0 offset means the center line of the hub / wheel are exactly that, centered. So you have 5" each way on a 10" wide rim. With my 9" wide rims, that have 4.75" backspacing, meaning 4.25" of the wheel is outside of the hub, and with 35x12.50 tires, I had to trim when I added the Rancho Quick Lift (suspension moves a LOT better than with the spacer block type leveling kits!). My trimming included trimming the front valance plastic, as well as the rear of the inner fender liner, and grinding back / cutting a 1/4" + of metal from the ridge on the inside of the inner fender. I now have sufficient clearance through full motion of the suspension.

Your 325/60R20 physically measures out to 13" wide x 35.4" diameter whereas my 35x12.50/17s measured out to 12.5" wide x 34.5" diameter.

In order to get a good fit, you really want no more than 4" from hub out on the rim, so a 9" wide rim with a 5" backspacing will help. Also do not exceed a section width of 315, or max diameter of 34.5"

Your other option would be to lift. And with the size wheels / tires you are going for, go no less than 6"...

 

What he said^. If you want to run that I'd get a bare minimum of 4" and I'd recommend going with 6".

With what you want to run on a leveling kit you'd have some insane rubbing, especially when trying to even hit full lock turning.

 

Ended up buying 35x12.5/20

 

I like your style lol

 

I do have a pa 3inch body lift sitting in my garage...reeeeeally dont want to put it in tho haha

 

Still gonna rub with a leveling kit because of the offset and wheel width.

 

Would a wheel spacer help?

 

It'll help by moving the rubbing off the frame some and probably the upper control arm some while turning, but it's just going to place that rubbing somewhere else. With a leveling kit and 35x12.50's, the best wheel to minimize issues is one with pretty close to stock width and offset.

 

wheel spacers with a 0 offset is suicide on your front end. just buy a lift kit since you wanted 35s and not 33s

 

Not the whole front end, the wheel bearings are going to take most of it.. haha

 

precisely it haha! and I rub like crazy on my lower bumper trim on old 33s so I can only imagine 35s

 

The problem isn't that the wheel is too far in, it is that it is too far out. You are 1/4" PAST where my 9" puts the outer edge of my 35x12.50s, and I rubbed. If you have a body lift, yeah put it in, that will help, a LOT... If not, get ready to cut metal. I had to do some mild grinding to get mine to work. Mind you, I didn't have any problem at all with rubbing with my Autospring, it is the Rancho Quicklift that I had the rubbing problem start with. Like I mentioned before, the suspension moves way more than it used to, which is both good and bad. Once you get past the rolled lip of the fender which really is no biggie, there is that slight bulge that is covered by the ridge of the fender liner plastic, there is a flange of steel behind it that is where your problem will be. I believe that is the mating edge between the cab corners, and the inside of the fender. It is probably 1" wide or more. I ground out about 3/8" in an arc off of that for the first 6". of course cut the plastic away from it, then hit it with some epoxy primer, and a flat black color / seal coat. Will be covering the area with bedliner material soon to totally avoid rust!

Yes my fitment measures are somewhat aggressive, but I am married to a short woman, and this tire size really does work for me. I am VERY limited to how high I can go on my truck... With my current configuration, there isn't a spot I am willing to take a vehicle I paid this much for (I bought mine as a 2 year lease return back in '06). I don't thrash the heck out of it, and in my setup, I FULLY expect this to be a reliable, capable, and enjoyable rig probably until I am either good and cold dead, or have passed it off to my kids...