When searching, many of the established threads are pushing 2 years old and some of the participants don't seem to be around any more, so I thought I'd start a new one here for a few questions that weren't addressed outright.

This may be for someone who's spent some time doing body work and has seen a fender or two from a crate or a junkyard. I have the parts for both the PVC version and the Spectre version and had a couple questions before I get started (going to start poking around and simply return the parts I don't use). How do you determine the depth of penetration into the fender wall? I've seen some pics that appear to be any piece of pipe that will fit, jammed into the fender. It seems that some are far too long and would butt up against the fender, causing more restriction than is eliminated in the mod to begin with. However too little may simply suck in hot air from the engine bay. With the thick walled PVC sanded into an oval, should I just mimic the length of the factory snorkel to play it safe (I'm guessing that can be set by the depth of the sanding)? Will this also allow it to slide back and forth as the engine torques?

With the spectre install, how did you guys set the penetration depth to keep it from slinkying down to the road? This one seems like it would allow some more flex to compensate for the twisting action during throttling.

And last, a one year old can crush the part # 23455, has anyone found a way or an alternative part to keep if from turning inside out or sucking into the filter box?

 

I have had the 'Spectre' tube on my truck for a couple of years with absolutely no problems. Only thing I had to do was to add a large hose clamp onto the snorkel end just to keep it tight...other than that..it stays put and works well.

 

how to measure distance? set the spectre tube next to the stock snorkel and mark the distance of the end to the grommet on the new spectre following the old one....I didn't hose clamp mine like sam did though, never had an issue