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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 08:06 PM
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F 150 brakes advice

My 2006 F-150 XLT 2WD will need front brakes in the near future, and I've been getting conflicting advice on how to do it. Some say that the rotors and hubs are one piece, and need to be replaced as a unit. Others tell me that the rotors are separate from the hubs and I will need to only replace the rotors. Also, the spindle nut appears to have a cotter pin to hold it in place, but I've been told that these trucks use the one time use crush nut similar to the SN95 Mustang spindle nut. Any help in clearing this up will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance, John
 
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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 08:22 PM
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If is is a stock truck the hub and rotor are a one piece unit. There is a company (I believe it's called Centric) does sell a hub unit where you can use a 4X4 rotor on the next replacement. Not 100% sure on the nut, but from what I have read here it is a one time use nut and has to be torqued to an unbelievable torque value. Hope this helps out. Go to Rockauto.com and look up your truck for the hub/rotor options.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 09:01 PM
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Spindle nut iirc and torque to 301 ft/lbs I believe. Centric is the way I'm going the next time around.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 09:11 PM
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I just did my brakes on my truck. 08 2wd.Replaced w/Powerstop. There are several manufactures such as Powerslot, EPC, Centric for the 2wd. Bottom line is, it generally comes in a one piece which is expensive as it comes with the hub & rotor'. If you get the two piece hub & rotor then next time you need to replace brakes then you only need the rotor which is cheaper keeping the original hub.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 09:28 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I just checked rock auto and Tire rack, and tire rack seems to be a dollar or two cheaper than Rock. I've also heard that Rock Auto tends to get to you with shipping charges. Tire Rack has a distribution center about 65 miles from me, so I can pick them up in person and avoid any shipping charges, so I think I'll go with them.
John
 
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Old Aug 25, 2012 | 10:59 PM
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I need to do my front rotors on 06 2wd also. I'm not seeing the two piece hub/rotor from centric on Tirerack. Do you have a link? From my research at rock auto you need.
Centric Rotor 12065100 $56.99
Centric Hub 12465902 $72.79
Nut 12465901 $10.45
Total $140.23
Less 5% Coupon Code 7.01
Total per wheel $133.22 plus shipping
 
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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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OK, what do I have? The photo is of my 2006 F 150 2WD. I pulled the hubcap and there is clearly a cotter pin and cage over the spindle nut. Everyone says this truck uses the newer style one time use nut. I don't want to disassemble it to see what I've got just to buy the correct parts. I need this vehicle and can't afford for it to be down for a length of time because I got the wrong parts. I've done plenty of brake jobs before on older equipment but this truck is different than just about anything I've ever worked on
.BTW,
Centric part number 120.65128 is a kit containing the hub, separate rotor and spindle nut for $128.79, this is from Rock auto
 
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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 09:21 PM
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I thought that when they went to the one piece hub/bearing they did away with the attached rotor. As in hub and bearing as one piece and rotor separate.

My 03 has a one piece hub/rotor and the bearings are separate, old school style on the bearings.

Jack it up and remove the wheel, if the rotor can be wiggled then you have separate rotors. Should be pretty easy to figure out like that.
 

Last edited by jgger; Aug 26, 2012 at 09:23 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Johns331
OK, what do I have? The photo is of my 2006 F 150 2WD. I pulled the hubcap and there is clearly a cotter pin and cage over the spindle nut. Everyone says this truck uses the newer style one time use nut. I don't want to disassemble it to see what I've got just to buy the correct parts. I need this vehicle and can't afford for it to be down for a length of time because I got the wrong parts. I've done plenty of brake jobs before on older equipment but this truck is different than just about anything I've ever worked on
.BTW,
Centric part number 120.65128 is a kit containing the hub, separate rotor and spindle nut for $128.79, this is from Rock auto
What you have taken a picture of is a sort of cover for the real nut underneath. The cotter pin pulls out and that cover pulls off. Then you will see the real nut that needs to be torqued to 295 lb ft. Its a really easy job as long as you have a torque wrench that goes that high.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 09:12 AM
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I recommend the Centric two-piece hub/rotor kit. It costs about the same as buying the one-piece designs, but allows much easier (and cheaper) changing of the rotor in the future. It comes with everything you need, including the new lock nut, cotter pin, and bearings in the hub. Quality pieces. Centric is who makes PowerStop, so you have the option of upgrading to their high performance rotors in the future as well, should the need arise.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 10:50 AM
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How many miles?

I changed the pad only on my 07 2wd this past spring and the rotor was great and well whitin spec.
And the truck have been used a lot for towing.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 11:18 AM
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I too changed pads without changing rotors. I have always done this unless the rotor was warped or scored badly. The only time I have had to change the rotors was when a bearing failed.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 02:12 PM
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Changing pads without resurfacing the rotors is a crapshoot. It may work fine, but it may not.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
Changing pads without resurfacing the rotors is a crapshoot. It may work fine, but it may not.
Agreed, and while my stock rotors appeared fine at over 80K miles and had no symptoms of warping, I wasn't about to ruin a new set of brake pads when the rotors went bad 5K miles later. I also didn't want to pay a shop to turn my rotors on the truck, and risk the rotors warping shortly afterwards with the bad reputation these rotors have for warping after being turned.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2012 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
I too changed pads without changing rotors. I have always done this unless the rotor was warped or scored badly. The only time I have had to change the rotors was when a bearing failed.
ME2 ..... unless I feel a warped rotor or excessively heat checked rotor or find a rotor wore to near limits, it's just pads.
I can't tell you the times I have replaced pads and not turned or replaced the rotors and never had a problem of any sort.

I bought a single set of rotors for a '73 Mustang back in the '70s after having stock rotors turned and the rotors warping again. That's the only set I have ever bought out of my pocket 1970-2012 and 20-22 personaly owned vehicles.
In 31 years and 14 police cars as Trooper, while even then on the state's dime, only replaced rotors when needed because of warpage or cracks ('78 Plymouth and some Chevies in late '80s - mid '90s) or wear to limit .... but I replaced a lot of pads usually getting 8-10K on a set in that '78 Plymouth and 20K maybe in later years Ford CVPIs with 4 wheel disc and their bigger rotors and slightly lower top ends.

Newer vehicles have OD transmissions that supply far less engine braking and I watch drivers .... many do not anticipate braking. They run up to the last bit then hard on brakes to slow or stop. Few can be bothered with reaching over to push the OD buttom and get some braking .... they don't think to do it and often can't spare a hand what with the phone in one hand and the wheel in the other.

No, it don't surprise me that people replace rotors and pads so often .... not at all.
 

Last edited by tbear853; Aug 31, 2012 at 09:03 PM.
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