Rear passenger spark plug nut stripped...
Rear passenger spark plug nut stripped...
Got around to changing the spark plugs today. I have seven out with two broken using the impact method. My concern is the farthest back passenger side plug which seems to have stripped. I was able to get a mirror on an angle and I don't have any dirt, so I tried hammering on a 14mm and no dice....spark plug is not broken yet as my needle nose won't budge it.
I'm not sure what I should try next without doing further damage, any ideas are much appreciated.
I'm not sure what I should try next without doing further damage, any ideas are much appreciated.
Do you mean the threads are stipped or that the hex head is rounded?
I believe the propper socket is a deep well 9/16" six point. 14MM (0.55118") is a little smaller than 9/16" (0.5625") by about 0.0114".
I believe the propper socket is a deep well 9/16" six point. 14MM (0.55118") is a little smaller than 9/16" (0.5625") by about 0.0114".
It's just the hex head that's rounded. I initially used a 9/16 which had the proper guts to fit around the plugs. It was a 12 point, but I didn't have any signs of wear on any of the other plugs. Most likely having the gun at a bit more of an angle I hit it wrong right off the bat.
Last thing I tried was the 14mm, used a socket first for 10 mins or so then the impact. Same results.
Last thing I tried was the 14mm, used a socket first for 10 mins or so then the impact. Same results.
Yeah so I went out and bought a 9/16 6 point which seems to be able to grip it but I have a new problem!!!! the lisle tool I bought stripped out on the first plug. I made sure to push the plug as far down as I could before threading it in......not sure what kind of options I have left..try some 3/8 ready rod?
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Alright, so went back to autovalue and they exchanged the puller, and so far I was able to get out my other broken plug. Hopefully it will bite the other plug, looks like my other lisle may have just had weak threads.
Forgot to mention this truck is an Alberta oil sands truck with 160k on her for most likely the first plug change of its life. Lots of dirt and shale build up.
Forgot to mention this truck is an Alberta oil sands truck with 160k on her for most likely the first plug change of its life. Lots of dirt and shale build up.
Ok so I ended up getting both broken plugs out, but I had to give up on the rear passenger plug and put everything together as I'm back to work tomorrow.
Started up the truck and let it idle for 10-15 mins, upon reving the engine the rpms would drop to 200 or so and then go back up. I cleaned each connection to the cop and reconnected. Same deal...let it run for an hour and the idle problem is fixed, but when I have it in gear (d,1,2,r) it drops down to 200. So I drove the truck for an hour and it seems to be coming back to idle (525 give or take) quicker as the truck adjusts.
So on the way home I get a flashing check engine light, but I can't get either of my obd2 readers to connect to the truck, which may be the ob2 connector on the truck as this would be the first time I've tried to pull codes in the year I've owned the vehicle....
anyway it's been a headache. engine was running a little rough, but I couldn't hear anything too alarming.....
Started up the truck and let it idle for 10-15 mins, upon reving the engine the rpms would drop to 200 or so and then go back up. I cleaned each connection to the cop and reconnected. Same deal...let it run for an hour and the idle problem is fixed, but when I have it in gear (d,1,2,r) it drops down to 200. So I drove the truck for an hour and it seems to be coming back to idle (525 give or take) quicker as the truck adjusts.
So on the way home I get a flashing check engine light, but I can't get either of my obd2 readers to connect to the truck, which may be the ob2 connector on the truck as this would be the first time I've tried to pull codes in the year I've owned the vehicle....
anyway it's been a headache. engine was running a little rough, but I couldn't hear anything too alarming.....
Yeah....I've been trying lol.
The last two nights I've taken in apart and tried a few things. I bought a grip tite set of sockets that didn't work. I've also been attempting to tap on a 14mm which doesn't seem to want to go on. Also tried another set of removers but they were too big to fit into the spark plug hole. Now it's up to a snap-on deep well 9/16 , 14mm extractor... Runs like junk when I have to drive it.
The last two nights I've taken in apart and tried a few things. I bought a grip tite set of sockets that didn't work. I've also been attempting to tap on a 14mm which doesn't seem to want to go on. Also tried another set of removers but they were too big to fit into the spark plug hole. Now it's up to a snap-on deep well 9/16 , 14mm extractor... Runs like junk when I have to drive it.
GOT IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ford quoted me 3200 to remove the head. Snap on 9/16 deep well extractor is the best design on the market PERIOD.
Soaked it overnight in PB blaster.....and I mean soaked it. Then used paper towel to absorb most of the oil and small amounts of shavings. Dropped the 9/16 snap on socket into the head, then using a larger extension and a small hammer I tapped it tight. I used a larger socket to turn the 9/16 instead a direct attachment. The plug came out broken and it was the nicest thing I've seen all week.
Lisle's nothing lol.
Ford quoted me 3200 to remove the head. Snap on 9/16 deep well extractor is the best design on the market PERIOD.
Soaked it overnight in PB blaster.....and I mean soaked it. Then used paper towel to absorb most of the oil and small amounts of shavings. Dropped the 9/16 snap on socket into the head, then using a larger extension and a small hammer I tapped it tight. I used a larger socket to turn the 9/16 instead a direct attachment. The plug came out broken and it was the nicest thing I've seen all week.
Lisle's nothing lol.




