I have an 05 FX4 and the other day when I started it, it started idling really rough and missing. I put it in gear and drove off, still missing. When I would pull up to stop signs, it would idle really rough. Then out of the blue, it stopped. So now for the last few days, it does it on and off. There doesn't seem to be any ryme or reason to when it does and doesn't do it, but it will miss and run rough for a little while, then it stops and its fine. I have a Gryphon tuner. I just changed the plugs about 5000 miles ago, using champions. Only one broke, but came out just fine with the tool. I change my oil regularly and use purolator filters. I also use an engine degreasing solvent called GUNK in the oil before every oil change, and been doing that for the last 40,000 miles, so I know the oil is clean, and no build up. The truck has right at 70,000 miles on it. The code I got the other day was a P0171, lean bank 1, but even though it has missed a few more times since then, I have not gotten anymore codes after I cleared that one. At first I thought maybe the infamous cam phaser issue, but after searching and reading lots here, I'm not so sure now. Any ideas?

Doug

 

I'd be interested in hearing what kinds of problems or symptoms people had before they decided to change the cam phasers.

 

did I put this in the wrong section or something?

 

What code are you getting? That should tell you where to start. You could be having the leaking fuel injector problem. If that is it, you are n danger of hydrolocking.

Why the Gunk in the oil? I will never use any additive in the oil as the oils are formulated with all the additives needed. Just change the oil and filter regularly and use a Motorcraft or Purolater filter and you will be good.

 

P0171, lean bank 1

I only put the additive in and run it for like 10 minutes before I drain the oil. It just removes any buildup that might not come out when drained, if there is any. I've used it for years in all of my cars and my race car, and it keeps my oil golden, which means the engine is clean.

 

I would get the injectors tested and also, when was the fuel filter changed?

On the oil, mine is still golden with 130,000 miles, changing every 4000 to 4500 with no additive, but it makes you feel better, so it does have value. I'm just one of those leary of additives.

 

where could I get the injectors tested at? Can the dealership do that? I know how they test them, I just don't know where I could get it done that I wouldn't have to send them off, and wait.


On the oil, when I was doing mechanic work, I just saw too many engines when I tore them down that had tons of gunk and carbon buildup in the heads and block. I guess I'm just kind of over preventative. I actually pulled apart a 350 one time that was an old farm truck, that had so much carbon/ oil sludge buildup in the head that when I pulled the valve cover off, it was like a black clay mold of the valve cover underneath with little pockets cutout where the rockers had been moving. ewe......

 

The injectors just have to be pulled off and tested with the key on. It is not major, you can do it yourself or the dealer can do it easily.

I know what you mean on the sludge, I too have rebuilt many of those engines. Today's oil is just not the same, though. It contains detergents to prevent that buildup.

 

BTW, Ford extended the warranty on injectors for the 2005.

 

Here is a link to the Ford letter.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...ram-07m08.html

 

cool, thanks. I guess since it doesn't seem to be sticking open or closed, because it only does it sometimes, and it's not throwing any codes consistently, all I can do is wait until it possibly gets worse.

thanks for the info.

 

You do have less that 20,000 on the fuel filter?

 

Something that needs to be done as regular maintenance and could possibly be your problem is clean the MAF and the throttle body. Pretty easy to do and would be a good idea to eliminate those. Just thought of that.

 

I changed the fuel filter about 3500 miles ago.

 

how do I check to see if a coil is bad? I called the dealer today, and they said that most of the time when the injector goes bad it sticks open and kills the engine. Said I could have a bad coil on that cylinder, but they want to charge me 95.00 to check it out, and I can get a motorcraft coil for 45.00, but don't want to spend any money if I don't have to. It's happened a couple of more times, and I get the P0171 code, but also get a misfire on cyl. 1, as well as an injector code that says open circuit injector, cyl. 1. I'm not sure what I should do. If I go in there and the injector isn't sticking then, they hit me for 95.00