intermittent miss, and code
So last night I bought a coil at O'rielly's and changed the one on cylinder 1. The codes I was getting always said cyl. 1. However, it didn't fix the problem. Now I'm only getting code P0202, so far, which is Cyl. 1 injector, open circuit. If it says open circuit, that would mean that the injector is stuck closed, right? No raw fuel coming out of tail pipe other than just running pig rich, which is might be the rest of the engine trying to compensate, I guess.
Just to be sure, number one cylinder is the front hole on the passenger side isn't it? that's what my MSD firing order chart said.
Doug
Just to be sure, number one cylinder is the front hole on the passenger side isn't it? that's what my MSD firing order chart said.
Doug
i am new here so i havent posted my truck info just yet. i have an 05 fx4 as well. i bought it new and the 1st week they replaced the battery and spark plugs. had a tsb saying installed the wrong plugs from factory. the 1st year i had it it spent more time in the shop than on the road. mis fire, rough idle, and then some. one trip to the shop was under idle because it would not rev any higher than that. on the rare occasion it would give a code it was a random code like those mentioned here. never did it match up correctly. after a "shot in the dark" replacement of main computer, fuel pump, all 8 plugs several different times, coil packs, air filters, it still had the same issues. one day it was fine then it wasnt....
today it still seems ok even with a rough idle without ac running. sometimes it does idle down to almost a shut off point at a red light if i dont have the ac running. in florida that doesnt happen much though, even in winter time.
today it still seems ok even with a rough idle without ac running. sometimes it does idle down to almost a shut off point at a red light if i dont have the ac running. in florida that doesnt happen much though, even in winter time.
I have an 06 with similar symptoms. My code said last cylinder on the drivers side; I forget what number it is. I replaced the coil and still have the problem. I tend to be heavy on the gas so it gets pushed to the floor anytime I try to pass anyone (since it's so slow) and the "drive by wire" takes seconds to actually decide to go. The "drive by wire" has almost gotten me in MANY wrecks however that's a different thread...
With that said my problem is never consistent. It is completely random. I live in Central Texas where it is currently 100+ degrees. Every day is almost exactly the same conditions and one day the truck will miss and the next day or the next start cycle it will be just fine.
This thing has run pig rich since I bought it brand new. Ford only knows how to say "it's normal". It is not normal to have a black tailpipe when it's supposed to be the same color as the rest of the exhaust.
I personally blame many of the problems with the performance, drive by wire and these problems on Ford's sorry engine management programming. I have seen post after post exactly like this and I have never seen a resolution that actually works. I am tired of chasing gremlins.
I have also had window regulator and front rotor problems and the truck just turned 54,000 miles.
With that said my problem is never consistent. It is completely random. I live in Central Texas where it is currently 100+ degrees. Every day is almost exactly the same conditions and one day the truck will miss and the next day or the next start cycle it will be just fine.
This thing has run pig rich since I bought it brand new. Ford only knows how to say "it's normal". It is not normal to have a black tailpipe when it's supposed to be the same color as the rest of the exhaust.
I personally blame many of the problems with the performance, drive by wire and these problems on Ford's sorry engine management programming. I have seen post after post exactly like this and I have never seen a resolution that actually works. I am tired of chasing gremlins.
I have also had window regulator and front rotor problems and the truck just turned 54,000 miles.
don't buy anything else.
move everything associated with cylinder one to the other bank, like cylinder 5.
Mine recently started running like crap and it was a clogged cat. I do not know if the previous owner had injector issues because i didn't think to get an oasis report when i bought it.
my symptoms were rough idle, horrible acceleration and couldn't get it to rev over 4k rpm and after driving it more than 30 mins it would try and stumble at idle, nearly die. not saying this is your problem but maybe this will help lead you towards or away from something.
move everything associated with cylinder one to the other bank, like cylinder 5.
Mine recently started running like crap and it was a clogged cat. I do not know if the previous owner had injector issues because i didn't think to get an oasis report when i bought it.
my symptoms were rough idle, horrible acceleration and couldn't get it to rev over 4k rpm and after driving it more than 30 mins it would try and stumble at idle, nearly die. not saying this is your problem but maybe this will help lead you towards or away from something.
Just echoing the danger of adding ANY additives to these VCT engines. Additional additives can loosen up stuff you dont want and find it's way to the very fine screens of the VCT actuators and getting them stuck. (From the dealer) do NOT run any type of oil additive, period!. Just good 5W-20 oil and quality filter (MC, Amsoil, Purolator, NO ORANGE !!) and change as per the manual.
Yeah mine pops and misses at highway speed and if I kick it down it starts misfiring from the tail pipe almost like a slight backfire. That would make me think cam timing, but I've not gotten any codes that don't specifically mention vylinder 1, and if it was cam timing, it would be causing issues on all cylinders on bank 1. I'm getting codes, P0171, P0201, and P0301
I can get an injector for 30 to 40 dollars. Should I just replace the injector myself or risk paying 95.00 to ford if it's not an injector? If it is an injector it's free, but if it's not................ I'm wondering if I should just let them look at it so there's a documented history, in case something else goes wrong.
i bought those... they didnt even look like the Oem... i sent them back.. got another oem set from parts warehouse for 129 shipped.. all 8.. but it specifically said.. fits my truck...
Yeah mine pops and misses at highway speed and if I kick it down it starts misfiring from the tail pipe almost like a slight backfire. That would make me think cam timing, but I've not gotten any codes that don't specifically mention vylinder 1, and if it was cam timing, it would be causing issues on all cylinders on bank 1. I'm getting codes, P0171, P0201, and P0301
i have that same problem going on now!... the misfiring from the tailpipe... with no get up either~..... got my coils coming this week, and will replace all 8.....
You need to get codes read. You need to be very careful as you have the 2005 that could have defective injectors. See the sticky at top of forum. If they are sticking open, can cause hydrolock, or if they are sticking closed, will cause it to run very poorly.
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Jim
Jim
I would take it in and have Ford check my injector. If the injector is stuck closed it could be causing your problem.
With the idle for our trucks usually its an injector, bad COP, Plugs or dirty TB. Clean your MAF sensor if you haven't already.
From the sounds of it you have a bad COP, Plug or injector would be my guess.
With the idle for our trucks usually its an injector, bad COP, Plugs or dirty TB. Clean your MAF sensor if you haven't already.
From the sounds of it you have a bad COP, Plug or injector would be my guess.






