Engine Troubles
Engine Troubles
So, I bought a used 2005 Lariat 4x4 Screw 5.4 from a Chevy dealer. No problems for a couple of months and then I got the occasional shudder when in OD and lightly accelerating. First i thought it was the torque converter locking/unlocking, so i changes the fluid and filter. Seamed to help, but it must have been in my head as the shudder stuck around. Figured it must have been plugs, COPs, etc, so I sent it in for a plug change.
This is where it gets interesting. The Ford dealer tells me that the truck was in 3 months earlier for the same issues, except that it had a CEL before and it didn't now. They say that they trouble shot everything, cam sensors, ecm, wiring, phasers, etc and ended up calling Ford. Long story short from them was that the truck had a history, had low pressure(22psi) and needed a new engine due to sludge buildup.
So, this gets me thinking. How can an engine throw codes (P340) and not get a CEL. I tore the cluster out to find that there was a piece of electrical tape over the CEL. Now I'm ticked. I can handle things breaking on a used vehicle, but fraud ticks me off.
Back to the chevy store. They take the truck and start looking into the issues as they did not want to replace the engine. The chevy store is owned by a family that owns a different local ford dealer, so the truck ends up there. They check the oil pressure and get 40psi, so now I'm happy that I might not need a new engine. They pull the valve cover and see that the timing is off a tooth. So, they get started pulling the front cover to set the timing. OK, that should be an easy fix right?
Couple days later when they get into it I get a call saying that there is sludge and I need a new motor again. I still have no other symptoms, no knocking, decent power, 15-16mpg.
Can a slight sludge buildup really cause this much of a problem? Could the driver side being out of time for a few thousand miles cause a buildup? Any ideas for an easier fix?
If the chevy dealer will pay for the new engine I don't really care, but if it's on my tab I'm looking for a much cheaper solution that a $6,500 long block.
Wow, sorry for the long post.
This is where it gets interesting. The Ford dealer tells me that the truck was in 3 months earlier for the same issues, except that it had a CEL before and it didn't now. They say that they trouble shot everything, cam sensors, ecm, wiring, phasers, etc and ended up calling Ford. Long story short from them was that the truck had a history, had low pressure(22psi) and needed a new engine due to sludge buildup.
So, this gets me thinking. How can an engine throw codes (P340) and not get a CEL. I tore the cluster out to find that there was a piece of electrical tape over the CEL. Now I'm ticked. I can handle things breaking on a used vehicle, but fraud ticks me off.
Back to the chevy store. They take the truck and start looking into the issues as they did not want to replace the engine. The chevy store is owned by a family that owns a different local ford dealer, so the truck ends up there. They check the oil pressure and get 40psi, so now I'm happy that I might not need a new engine. They pull the valve cover and see that the timing is off a tooth. So, they get started pulling the front cover to set the timing. OK, that should be an easy fix right?
Couple days later when they get into it I get a call saying that there is sludge and I need a new motor again. I still have no other symptoms, no knocking, decent power, 15-16mpg.
Can a slight sludge buildup really cause this much of a problem? Could the driver side being out of time for a few thousand miles cause a buildup? Any ideas for an easier fix?
If the chevy dealer will pay for the new engine I don't really care, but if it's on my tab I'm looking for a much cheaper solution that a $6,500 long block.
Wow, sorry for the long post.
Sludge is death on the variable cam timing system. Sludge results when it's not maintained properly - specifically proper oil, filter, and change interval.
If the timing was off a tooth, it's been into before - and by someone who didn't know what they were doing. Between that and the tape over the CEL, you bought someone else's troubles, sorry to say. You have to wonder why you see a Ford truck on a Chevy used car lot....... Push for an engine replacement.
By the way, the P0340 means you have a bad cat. The 05's had a bad batch of fuel injectors, it's possible that one or more of them did leak and chew up the cat.
If the timing was off a tooth, it's been into before - and by someone who didn't know what they were doing. Between that and the tape over the CEL, you bought someone else's troubles, sorry to say. You have to wonder why you see a Ford truck on a Chevy used car lot....... Push for an engine replacement.
By the way, the P0340 means you have a bad cat. The 05's had a bad batch of fuel injectors, it's possible that one or more of them did leak and chew up the cat.
Codes were actually P0345 and P0349 for camshaft position malfunction. I am still hoping the dealer will pay for a new engine, or at least most of it. If not I wonder if just timing the engine will get it running well enough. If there is some sludge maybe some amsoil engine flush could clean things up to get the head pressure up for the VCT. But i still wonder how the head could look clean under the valve cover and it is built up underneath so bad.
Codes were actually P0345 and P0349 for camshaft position malfunction. I am still hoping the dealer will pay for a new engine, or at least most of it. If not I wonder if just timing the engine will get it running well enough. If there is some sludge maybe some amsoil engine flush could clean things up to get the head pressure up for the VCT. But i still wonder how the head could look clean under the valve cover and it is built up underneath so bad.
will that really work if you have so much sludge that the vct solonoids cant activate? weighing the risk of buttoning the truck back up and trying the auto-rx or just taking the dealer paying for half of a new engine.
I'd still be leary of the one dealer saying it had low pressure before and if there was some other damage done that you won't notice until later on and then you'll be on your own.
I would push as hard as I could on having the dealer pay for a new engine or replacing the vehicle. As a last resort I would get a lawyer and see what else could be done.
Personally I would try to have the dealer replace the truck if at all possible...even if it's a Chevy. If your truck has had this poor of maintenance it's hard telling what else "might" be wrong or neglected. Legally I have no idea if getting another truck is an option but hopefully the dealer will accept responsibility on not thoroughly checking the truck prior to selling it.
Good luck
I would push as hard as I could on having the dealer pay for a new engine or replacing the vehicle. As a last resort I would get a lawyer and see what else could be done.
Personally I would try to have the dealer replace the truck if at all possible...even if it's a Chevy. If your truck has had this poor of maintenance it's hard telling what else "might" be wrong or neglected. Legally I have no idea if getting another truck is an option but hopefully the dealer will accept responsibility on not thoroughly checking the truck prior to selling it.
Good luck
Addtl. By the way, if you get them to cover part of an engine (a Ford engine), it will be a "Remanufactured", not new, because Ford (and most others as well) don't sell "new", only rebuilt, which are called "Remanufactured".
Last edited by code58; Aug 18, 2010 at 03:16 AM.
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Well, weighing my options I chose to have the dealer pay for half a reman long block. So, now my questions go toward how to break it in. I've never owned a new car or truck, only a new Harley and they have very conservative break in instructions.
Do I need to change the oil at 500miles? Keep it under 3k rpm? Vary the rpm versus driving a lot with the cruise? Unplug the battery so the ecm will recalibrate for the xmsn, etc?
I appreciate any suggestions.
Do I need to change the oil at 500miles? Keep it under 3k rpm? Vary the rpm versus driving a lot with the cruise? Unplug the battery so the ecm will recalibrate for the xmsn, etc?
I appreciate any suggestions.





