How To Change Ball Joints. Steps provided
#16
OK...did it...
took about 6 hours for upper c'arms, lower ***** and tie rod ends...
(3 1/2 then 2 1/2)...once I had all the right tools out and knew my way around it was much easier...
you will be happy to have a 21mm deep socket and 21mm reverse ratcheting wrench as well as the tools listed above...
my bit of advice would be to remove all the ball joint nuts all the way first because they will have rust on the threads and will end up spining instead of loosining...
thankfully the new moog ***** are shorter with castle nut so they will have less thread to rust away...
also...remove the lower strut mount bolt after all the spring pressure has been released...the bolt will come out very easy...make it one of the fist things back on too..
thanks again and good luck to all who try...not that hard...just time/labor intensive
but worth putting $400-$500 in my pocket for a Sat. in the garage...
truck drives like new and so much tighter
Now off to the alignment shop...
took about 6 hours for upper c'arms, lower ***** and tie rod ends...
(3 1/2 then 2 1/2)...once I had all the right tools out and knew my way around it was much easier...
you will be happy to have a 21mm deep socket and 21mm reverse ratcheting wrench as well as the tools listed above...
my bit of advice would be to remove all the ball joint nuts all the way first because they will have rust on the threads and will end up spining instead of loosining...
thankfully the new moog ***** are shorter with castle nut so they will have less thread to rust away...
also...remove the lower strut mount bolt after all the spring pressure has been released...the bolt will come out very easy...make it one of the fist things back on too..
thanks again and good luck to all who try...not that hard...just time/labor intensive
but worth putting $400-$500 in my pocket for a Sat. in the garage...
truck drives like new and so much tighter
Now off to the alignment shop...