2004 - 2008 F-150

Camber adjustment

 
  #16  
Old 03-25-2010, 03:01 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Took the '07 to another shop yesterday. I showed them I have the 2.5" spacers installed and asked them to check the camber due to inner tire wear. They did and said it was good. Atleast they didnt charge me anything to check it. With the truck on the alignment rack, I showed them that the front tires lean in at the top and the inner tire wear. It's obvious. The readings are LH -.8 RH -.5 I asked if they would adjust to 0 or to vertical level and he said he wouldnt because it was in spec. I told him I would pay him to straighten them up. He still said no, because to straighten them would put them out of spec and they would be liable. This is getting ridiculous. What is a man to do?
 
  #17  
Old 03-25-2010, 03:03 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have heard that there is a new camber setting for leveled trucks. Anyone else hear that?
 
  #18  
Old 03-25-2010, 07:55 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Northern Alberta
Posts: 1,654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by srob View Post
I have heard that there is a new camber setting for leveled trucks. Anyone else hear that?
and who came up with this setting? anyways NO...specs are specs they cannot be changed just for aftermarket equipment. If camber in spec it should not be changed to make the tires straight up and down....negative camber is what gives you cornering ability. if your tires are wearing on the inside and the alighnment is good it can only mean one thing, and that is you are not rotating your tires as often as you should.
 

Last edited by Paralyzer; 03-25-2010 at 07:58 PM.
  #19  
Old 03-26-2010, 09:20 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gulfport, MS
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Paralyzer View Post
and who came up with this setting? anyways NO...specs are specs they cannot be changed just for aftermarket equipment. If camber in spec it should not be changed to make the tires straight up and down....negative camber is what gives you cornering ability.
0* camber is within the specs for our trucks, though.
 
  #20  
Old 03-26-2010, 05:00 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: KY
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Tires have been rotated every 5K. Coming up on rotation #4. I paid for Lifetime Rotate & Balance, why not use it. I keep the pressure at 40 psi, religously. As Gator said 0* is in spec, that's all I was asking them to do.

As for the different camber settings, This came out of an article in a sport truck magazine:

"If you raise your trucks too much as with many leveling kits, the top of the tire will be farther out than the bottom (looking from the front of the truck) and you will need to adjust the lower a-arm bolts to push the bottom of the tire outward so it is closer to verticle. Keep in mind this adjustment is usually blamed for bad tire wear."

Mine are in at the top. Just wondering if anyone else had seen or heard of this. Didn't mean to ruffle any feathers.
 
  #21  
Old 03-26-2010, 05:11 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Gulfport, MS
Posts: 228
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by srob View Post
Mine are in at the top. Just wondering if anyone else had seen or heard of this. Didn't mean to ruffle any feathers.
Sounds like the tech over adjusted, mine were in at the bottom after installing mine.
 
  #22  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:28 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Northern Alberta
Posts: 1,654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What you need to know is that camber AND caster are both adjusted VIA the lower controll arms. If the tech tries to go for 0* camber chances are he will not be able to get caster in spec. Which is why there is an acceptable range for both.
 
  #23  
Old 10-01-2014, 01:05 AM
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

I know manufacturers have specs on alignments, but when most vehicles are modified, they do require to have the specs altered also depending on the use. If the lift will allow for the original specs to be used, we will do that, if not we will shoot for a good street use spec of 0 camber and 3 or more on caster both wheels with .16 toe in. This works well. I prefer 0 camber if attainable or at the very most .5 degrees plus or minus. Caster should be as close to the same as possible, but setting one a degree or two off to make the vehicle drift to the outside of the road is best. I am not talking about making it pull hard, just making the vehicle drift off the road if you were to fall asleep at the wheel. Any vehicle that drifts or pulls to the oncoming traffic needs immediate attention. Some like to have the camber a little positive to make up for the crown in the road, like in many states who do not have good roads. Depending on the tire size and width, it is sometimes needed to toe a vehicle in a little more to compensate for the friction of larger tires based on an average speed of 55. I am surprised of all the shops who will turn a proper alignment down. It would seem they are unsure of what they are doing and maybe afraid they will have an unwanted outcome they can't fix. Sorry to say, we do not do complete alignments for $29.95. Its by the hour with a shop rate of $40 per hour. The difference is this, when its done, its done correctly. I have yet ever seen anyone do a true alignment. That is the one that is done with caster, camber, scrub angle and toe in less than a hour. First we fully inspect, calibrate, record, set and test drive. You get what you pay for, we only use lasers, so there is no error with equipment making allowable error acceptable.
 

Last edited by Godmudder; 10-01-2014 at 01:34 AM.
  #24  
Old 10-02-2014, 10:03 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: The Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 2,700
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
I know that when I lowered the front of my '07 FX4 2 inches, it kicked the camber off so the tires leaned in .... as well as toed out and so I aligned it. I had to pull lower control arms almost all the way in in their slots, but finally got camber into spec and caster ended up a tad over 6 degrees both sides ..... but I drive mostly rural and highways so extra caster is OK .... and then lastly .... I went to work on toe while getting wheel straight. But if I had gone much lower, would have had to grind slots some I think. I used OEM bolts, made small custom fit "locks" that abutt the nuts to "lock" in place (like those "camber bolt kits" do, just no adjustable without removal) once I was done. I'm sure that tires wear a little on edges when I turn sharp due to my caster settings .... but still has OEM tires near 48K miles.
 

Last edited by tbear853; 10-02-2014 at 10:06 AM.
 


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Camber adjustment


Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: