Rear Pinion Leak Help
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02-12-2010, 09:47 PM
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Tulsa, OK
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Rear Pinion Leak Help
How many feel that below method is a safe way to replace a pinion seal? Mine has started to leak a little. I have also noticed a vibration in the rear around 65 so I am thinking I have a u-joint going bad and this has caused the seal to leak also.
Picked up a seal........this afternoon.........took a little work but it's in.
Here's basically how I did it (back-yard version).
1) Jack the rear axle.....jack stands both sides.
2) Remove wheels, caliper, rotors.......both sides.
3) Mark the position of the drive shaft to the pinion flange (so you can return it to the same position on the flange)....remove drive shaft. (mine took a little prying.......it really didn't appear to want to move....but it did). Just don't beat on or damage the drive shaft. Also, you can start the engine and put it in neutral to turn the shaft for easier bolt access.
NOTE: With the drive shaft, wheels, calipers and rotors removed, you will want to turn the flange/pinion shaft to make a note of its approximate force to run. You should be able to turn it by hand relatively easily. When you re-assemble........it should be as close to this condition as possible.
4) Mark the pinion threads above the nut (and count the threads for backup)so you can return the nut to the same position on the shaft during re-assembly. (NOTE: With the shaft removed...you can return two of the flange bolts into the flange a few turns. Use a pry bar, lug handle, or similar device to run between the bolts and hold the flange while turning the bolt. This is much easier with a bud...........or maybe a few buds ). Remove the nut (1 1/8" socket) while holding back the flange with the pry bar.
5) With the pinion nut removed.....you will need a 3 prong 2-ton puller or similar device to remove the flange (Rent for free from Oreilly's, Advance Auto, AutoZone, etc.).
6) Now you can remove the seal. A nice seal puller of some sort works great. Or.......you can use a 1-2" this metal scraper tool to drive around the outer edge of the seal. A screw driver can then be used to start working the seal away for the face of the housing.
7) Apply some fresh gear lube (probably dripping from the opening) to coat the inner and outer edges of the new seal. A nice seal installation tool works great to insert the new seal. Or, you can use the old seal to help tap the new seal back in by gently tapping the perimeter of the old seal. A wood block can also be used to help distribute the force in this process.
8) With the new seal installed....apply a small amount of gear lube on the flange splines and insert back onto the pinion shaft. Put a small amount of blue thread lock back on the nut and get it started on the shaft. You can use the same pry bar or device to hold the flange as you tighten in back down by turning the pinion nut back into position being careful to not overtighten.
When you finish...........turn and check the force required to turn the pinion. It should be roughly the same as before nut/flange removal.
9) Re-assemble drift shaft being careful to line up with the marked areas of the flange and drive shaft. Torque to spec.
10) Continue reassebly of rotors, calipers, wheels......torque to spec (150 lbs on the wheels).
Took me a few hours. Had to rent a puller for the flange......don't keep one around. Had a little problem separating the drive shaft from the flange.....not to bad. Tried to be careful not to damage anything. Also had a problem removing one of the rear rotors. IMine wasn't leaking last weekend.......just started leaking some time the last couple of days. Glad it's done...........hate leaking fluids anywhere. Nipped in the bud.
Picked up a seal........this afternoon.........took a little work but it's in.
Here's basically how I did it (back-yard version).
1) Jack the rear axle.....jack stands both sides.
2) Remove wheels, caliper, rotors.......both sides.
3) Mark the position of the drive shaft to the pinion flange (so you can return it to the same position on the flange)....remove drive shaft. (mine took a little prying.......it really didn't appear to want to move....but it did). Just don't beat on or damage the drive shaft. Also, you can start the engine and put it in neutral to turn the shaft for easier bolt access.
NOTE: With the drive shaft, wheels, calipers and rotors removed, you will want to turn the flange/pinion shaft to make a note of its approximate force to run. You should be able to turn it by hand relatively easily. When you re-assemble........it should be as close to this condition as possible.
4) Mark the pinion threads above the nut (and count the threads for backup)so you can return the nut to the same position on the shaft during re-assembly. (NOTE: With the shaft removed...you can return two of the flange bolts into the flange a few turns. Use a pry bar, lug handle, or similar device to run between the bolts and hold the flange while turning the bolt. This is much easier with a bud...........or maybe a few buds ). Remove the nut (1 1/8" socket) while holding back the flange with the pry bar.
5) With the pinion nut removed.....you will need a 3 prong 2-ton puller or similar device to remove the flange (Rent for free from Oreilly's, Advance Auto, AutoZone, etc.).
6) Now you can remove the seal. A nice seal puller of some sort works great. Or.......you can use a 1-2" this metal scraper tool to drive around the outer edge of the seal. A screw driver can then be used to start working the seal away for the face of the housing.
7) Apply some fresh gear lube (probably dripping from the opening) to coat the inner and outer edges of the new seal. A nice seal installation tool works great to insert the new seal. Or, you can use the old seal to help tap the new seal back in by gently tapping the perimeter of the old seal. A wood block can also be used to help distribute the force in this process.
8) With the new seal installed....apply a small amount of gear lube on the flange splines and insert back onto the pinion shaft. Put a small amount of blue thread lock back on the nut and get it started on the shaft. You can use the same pry bar or device to hold the flange as you tighten in back down by turning the pinion nut back into position being careful to not overtighten.
When you finish...........turn and check the force required to turn the pinion. It should be roughly the same as before nut/flange removal.
9) Re-assemble drift shaft being careful to line up with the marked areas of the flange and drive shaft. Torque to spec.
10) Continue reassebly of rotors, calipers, wheels......torque to spec (150 lbs on the wheels).
Took me a few hours. Had to rent a puller for the flange......don't keep one around. Had a little problem separating the drive shaft from the flange.....not to bad. Tried to be careful not to damage anything. Also had a problem removing one of the rear rotors. IMine wasn't leaking last weekend.......just started leaking some time the last couple of days. Glad it's done...........hate leaking fluids anywhere. Nipped in the bud.