Spark Plugs
Spark Plugs
Quick question for the 3 valve guys. I dont really mess with the 3 valve engines. I have a friend that wants me too change his plugs for him.
1. Are there any acceptable or better than stock spark plugs? Or just stay with the motocrafts?
2. I notice there is a problem with them seperating and part staying in the head. Has anyone come up with any good ways to deter this? If one does break, is removing the head the only recourse to get it out? Thanks!
1. Are there any acceptable or better than stock spark plugs? Or just stay with the motocrafts?
2. I notice there is a problem with them seperating and part staying in the head. Has anyone come up with any good ways to deter this? If one does break, is removing the head the only recourse to get it out? Thanks!
Quick question for the 3 valve guys. I dont really mess with the 3 valve engines. I have a friend that wants me too change his plugs for him.
1. Are there any acceptable or better than stock spark plugs? Or just stay with the motocrafts?
2. I notice there is a problem with them seperating and part staying in the head. Has anyone come up with any good ways to deter this? If one does break, is removing the head the only recourse to get it out? Thanks!
1. Are there any acceptable or better than stock spark plugs? Or just stay with the motocrafts?
2. I notice there is a problem with them seperating and part staying in the head. Has anyone come up with any good ways to deter this? If one does break, is removing the head the only recourse to get it out? Thanks!
__________________
Jim
Jim
OP - if ya do decide to do this, one thread of many ==> https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ug-update.html
BTW - how many miles on that 3V?
Good luck
BTW - how many miles on that 3V?
Good luck
Trending Topics
The Brisk is a racing plug. It's not platinum and it's a cold heat range. Expect them to foul out unless you warm it up fully every time you drive it, and you drive it like you stole it. They will also need to be changed at least every 25k.

Search for Jim Allen's posts.
I'm going Champion. I expect no issues. But then again, I'm probably the only feller here that pulled his plugs when the truck had less than 1,000 miles on it to apply hi-temp nickel antiseize to the DRY factory-installed shanks. And a miniscule amount on the threads.

MGD
Motorcraft has released a new P/N plug, that is supposedly less likely to break.
The original P/N was SP-507, new P/N is SP-515. Here are some photos of both
plugs, I don't see much difference, except there is more bluing on the weld on
the new plug:
1

2

3

4

5
The original P/N was SP-507, new P/N is SP-515. Here are some photos of both
plugs, I don't see much difference, except there is more bluing on the weld on
the new plug:
1

2

3

4

5
Both plugs are the same, Both are the revised type, neither one is the original plug. The difference is the 507 is a single platinum plug and the 515 is a double plat. plug. Both are a revised design to help stop the breakage issue.
plugs.
Here are some double platinum photos, notice the center, and ground electrodes have platinum beads:


Look up the specs on the SP-515...They ARE the double platinum Plug. That isn't even a Motorcraft 515 you have pictured anyway....
I'm sorry, you are wrong. The SP-507, and SP-515 are both finewire platinum
plugs, which are single platinum. Only the center electrode is platinum. The
plugs pictured are SP-507, and SP-515 plugs. Look at the number on the insulator (PZH 14F) this
number cross-references with SP-515. With COPs, there is no benefit
to double platinum, due to all plugs having the same polarity spark.
Last edited by Takeda; Dec 27, 2011 at 10:30 PM.






