Hey guys, hope you're doing better than I am. I just got back from Ford after taking the truck in because of the rear end shuddering when I made turns. They say I need a differential clutch kit. Grand total for everything is $1041!

I've been driving with this bad clutch thing for about a week or so. What other specific parts could I have damaged as a result of use with this other problem?

Thanks for your time guys,
Anthony

 

I wouldn't rush into having the dealer do the replacement too fast.
Many here including myself (2004 Supercrew 4x4) have experienced this shuddering which is caused by the clutch pack. Get yourself some Mobil 1 75-140 Synthetic Gear Lubricant(my choice) and replace the factory read end lubricant with it. I did this when my truck had about 20,000 miles on it and I was getting the same shuddering. I now have over 81,000 miles on it and it has never returned. I did change the lubricant again at 60,000 miles with another fill up of Mobil 1 as mentioned.
Once I replaced the factory rear end fluid at 20,000 miles I took the truck into a large deserted parking lot and did many donuts switching from right to left handed turns to get the lube working the clutch pack. Did the same to my Lightning many years ago with the same sucessful results.
Try it and save yourself about $1000.00 !!
Just another reason that I hate Ford Service Departments.

 

I don't have the expertise required to change any of those fluids. Do you think they're really lying to me?

 

$1041 for new clutches? screw that. If anything, put in a Detroit Tru-Trac LS. No clutch packs, no wearing. Should last you forever.

 

****. How much is it?

Who else agrees with mSall? I'll cancel my order from Tasca.

 

There is a certain amont of skipping, shudder or whatever you want to call it, that is normal. Especially if you take a hard turn with under power. It's just the clutches doing what they are supposed to do. Locking up, but while the wheels are at different speeds, due to the turn. Is it more than this?

 

Its only worth it if your clutches are actually shot. If its just minor shuddering, I wouldn't swap differentials. Figure out what exactly the problem is and then make a decision.

 

I can't figure out what the problem is. They won't tell me anything more than, "this broke, buy this."

The shuddering and grinding is really bad and fairly loud and it occurs on every turn. It's not something that was there before.

 

Changing rear end lubricant is not rocket science. Visit your local autoparts such as Auto Zone, Advanced, O'Reileys or whatever you have close. Tell them you want to change your rear end lube and they can show you what you will need. They make an extraction tool to draw the fluid out with, then you install the new Mobil 1 75-140 fluid, no need to remove the cover. If you don't feel comfortable doing this , then ask one of your mechanically inclined friends to help. Its no more difficult than changing your engine oil.
I am willing to bet that you don't need a new clutch pack. Save the $$$ and try what I suggested.

 

OK, I had a guy at Speed and Truck World down here take a look at it. He laughed when I told him Ford wanted to replace it. He put some friction modifier in it and said give it a couple days.

I'll guess we'll see.

Thank you guys!

 

I passed on a purchase of a SWEEET 06 because the rear end was acting like it had a spool in it while cornering at slow speeds. It would literally bind up the rear end so bad the inside tire was hopping. Returned it to the dealer who let me borrow it for the night and said no thanks. Hopefully all it needed was some friction modifier and no worries, but I didn't want the problem if it turned out to be much worse. My new/used 06 XLT does not do this and it is one of the first things I checked for.

Like everybody is suggesting,,before you spend big money go get ya some new fluid and friction modifier (or Royal Purple w/modifier added), change your fluids and see if it fixes it. Good luck!

 

That was my exact suggestion. I have had both cases were the clutches were too grippy and too slick. One time I would bark tires going around a turn after getting the rear serviced (prevent. maint.) at a dealership. They replaced the fluid with the correct amount of friction modifier to give good smooth turning with added traction when needed. The other time was the opposite with almost an open rear phenotype. Again, the proper amount of friction modifier fixed all. I would say that the limited slip works very well in these trucks if the proper amount of modifier is used. On the side, maybe Ford should help out their supplier to make a less sensitive clutch pack.

I think that the modifier should do the trick. Good Luck.

 

How do they actually physically check to see if the clutch stuff is bad? Will I notice tool marks on the outside of the differential cover? I want to know that they actually took a look in there.

 

They probably just drove it around the block, lol.
If the friction modifier doesn't work, maybe a clutch disc broke or something. Still I doubt they looked at it.
A Ford limited slip clutch rebuild kit is only $80-100. Any gear/transmission shop can rebuild the limited slip pack for WAY less than $1000. You could have an aftermarket (much better) gear driven limited slip installed for that much or less. Something like a Detroit True-trac.
If the friction modifier doesn't work, go back to the truck shop. Ask them to pull the cover off and have a look, and ask what options you have with them.

 

As everyone has already said, if your current LSD is shot, upgrade it to a True-Trac. You won't have any of these problems with that unit.