Cannot shift out of Park. (2004 FX4 SCREW)
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From: Rural NE
have you checked to make sure the shift link cable is properly seated in spot its supposed to be in. If it is not the thing maybe unlocking but you will have a hard time shifting it. There is a groove for it to sit down in make sure that it is firmly seated as well. That is the only other thing I could think of it being.
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AAK625
Look under the dash where the brake pedal is you should see a black switch with 4 wires coming off of it and a yellow clip. This is you brake pedal switch it tells the shift interlock solinold that you are pressing the brake to shift out of park and it also will cancel cruise control when you hit the brake. If you put your hand on the switch you will feel that it pivots up and down. When you move the switch up and down with the engine running the little white button in your console should move down. If this happens your brake switch is bad and need to be replaced.
Look under the dash where the brake pedal is you should see a black switch with 4 wires coming off of it and a yellow clip. This is you brake pedal switch it tells the shift interlock solinold that you are pressing the brake to shift out of park and it also will cancel cruise control when you hit the brake. If you put your hand on the switch you will feel that it pivots up and down. When you move the switch up and down with the engine running the little white button in your console should move down. If this happens your brake switch is bad and need to be replaced.
What does this mean?
EDIT-
I found the solenoid on Tasca's site.
7l3z3z719a
Should I get it? How hard is it to replace it myself? Beware, I'm an auto-idiot.
Last edited by AAK625; May 22, 2009 at 12:56 PM.
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From: Pearl Harbor
Before you start throwing parts at the truck and blowing money, we need to isolate if it is the Brake/Parking Solenoid
1. Check every fuse inside the cab...tedius I know, but necessary...sometimes the easiest answer is the simplest one
2. Motor On
1. Check every fuse inside the cab...tedius I know, but necessary...sometimes the easiest answer is the simplest one
2. Motor On
Put your head down by the dash.
Push the brake pedal
If you hear a click, it is working.
If you hear nothing, the solenoid isn't working
Not very scienific I know, but should easily isolate
Push the brake pedal
If you hear a click, it is working.
If you hear nothing, the solenoid isn't working
Not very scienific I know, but should easily isolate
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From: Pearl Harbor
during the BrakeSwitch test, cycle the brakes On/Off several times
If that solenoid is working, you will hear that thing clicking. It will click when you push the pedal, and then again when pedal is released
If that solenoid is working, you will hear that thing clicking. It will click when you push the pedal, and then again when pedal is released
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OK Tylus. That's brake cycle test. I didn't hear anything except the pumping.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NElFTt5seaQ&fmt=18
Where are the fuses? Do I need to unplug the battery?
Thank you so much!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NElFTt5seaQ&fmt=18
Where are the fuses? Do I need to unplug the battery?
Thank you so much!
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From: San Mateo, CA
i had a similar problem except my truck just stopped as i was driving and when i put it in park it wouldn't come back out. and i wouldn't do anything in the middle of the street had to get it towed, ended up being the Ignition fuse i replaced it with the abs valves fuse and got home and bought a replacement fuse hope this helps...
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Well, my father fixed it. He said the white plastic piece, seen below (before fix) was too far forward (toward the engine), so he jiggled it backwards and problem solved!
Thanks anyway guys, for all your help!
-Anthony
Thanks anyway guys, for all your help!
-Anthony
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Turns out it's not fixed. For the short time that it was, I did not try to shift without use of the brake.
So, we're back to square two. The white plastic piece is very lose and wobbles freely.
So, we're back to square two. The white plastic piece is very lose and wobbles freely.
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From: Pearl Harbor
your father defeated the shift interlock that is controlled by the brake switch solenoid.
since you aren't hearing that thing clicking when you hit/release the brakes...I'd venture an educated guess and say the solenoid is broken
but...as you are right now isn't exactly a bad thing. just something to be aware of. especially if it shifts just fine, and acts normally
since you aren't hearing that thing clicking when you hit/release the brakes...I'd venture an educated guess and say the solenoid is broken
still, you should check all the fuses just in case
on the passenger side, low down by the floorboard. pull that plastic piece out and the Fuse Panel is behind it.
on the passenger side, low down by the floorboard. pull that plastic piece out and the Fuse Panel is behind it.
but...as you are right now isn't exactly a bad thing. just something to be aware of. especially if it shifts just fine, and acts normally
before cars got smarter than drivers, you used to be able to shift into gear without hitting the brakes...I had a couple of them myself 
IMO, just be aware of the problem, and keep on driving it. It's not like the truck will jump into gear. You still have to depress the switch on the shifter itself.
fix it when you get the money
IMO, just be aware of the problem, and keep on driving it. It's not like the truck will jump into gear. You still have to depress the switch on the shifter itself.
fix it when you get the money
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Sorry if I missed it, I did a find on page for meter, ohm or continuity, and did not find it.
Have you unplugged the brake pedal position switch and checked it with a meter ?
There is one mechanism with 2 switches in the BPP switch. Just because the brake lights work, does not mean the interlock switch is not bad. That is a bad assumption to make when diagnosing.
Unplug it, and the pairs you are wanting to test are the pins on the connector that correspond to the Tan w/ red stripe & pink w/ light green stripe wires.
The light green w/ red stripe & light green wires are for the brake lights ( to the CHMSL & MFS for the rear tail lamps ).
Quite a few threads in the electrical forum on this topic, watch the MY when you search as it will also have the 97-03 MYs where the BPP switch was a single circuit.
Have you unplugged the brake pedal position switch and checked it with a meter ?
There is one mechanism with 2 switches in the BPP switch. Just because the brake lights work, does not mean the interlock switch is not bad. That is a bad assumption to make when diagnosing.
Unplug it, and the pairs you are wanting to test are the pins on the connector that correspond to the Tan w/ red stripe & pink w/ light green stripe wires.
The light green w/ red stripe & light green wires are for the brake lights ( to the CHMSL & MFS for the rear tail lamps ).
Quite a few threads in the electrical forum on this topic, watch the MY when you search as it will also have the 97-03 MYs where the BPP switch was a single circuit.
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Unplug it, and the pairs you are wanting to test are the pins on the connector that correspond to the Tan w/ red stripe & pink w/ light green stripe wires.
The light green w/ red stripe & light green wires are for the brake lights ( to the CHMSL & MFS for the rear tail lamps ).
The light green w/ red stripe & light green wires are for the brake lights ( to the CHMSL & MFS for the rear tail lamps ).
Shall I proceed with the test of the two wires connections on the right?
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
OK, that is a neat one. Ford must have changed color code between '04 and '06 ( or the printed manual has a typo on 37-1 & 90-2 ).
The green pairs on the left are the brake lamp circuit, the ones on the right are the shift interlock.
The switch you want to test for this is the ones that the pink w/ light green & light blue w/ red stripe.
Fuse F16 feeds the light blue w/ red stripe wire ( manual marked as Tan w/ Red stripe ). That should have + voltage on it ( when testing to a known good ground ). The pin position for the BPP switch is the same, pins 5 & 6 ( the right 2 pins on the picture above ).
The green pairs on the left are the brake lamp circuit, the ones on the right are the shift interlock.
The switch you want to test for this is the ones that the pink w/ light green & light blue w/ red stripe.
Fuse F16 feeds the light blue w/ red stripe wire ( manual marked as Tan w/ Red stripe ). That should have + voltage on it ( when testing to a known good ground ). The pin position for the BPP switch is the same, pins 5 & 6 ( the right 2 pins on the picture above ).