Everything can be found on this page

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...21404#WLED-x-x


License Plate

WLED-WHP (No doubt the best bulb for this location) White $4.95 each



Map & Dome (rear)

WLED-4 (to be used for the map and dome lighting (rear side bulbs). $1.95 each. You can go with more LEDS if you like (Example WLED-6)

Dome (Screw (middle) Only)

42mm Festoon Bulb (I went with the 3 LED one) 4210-xWHP3. $7.95 each

3rd Brake light

921 bulb. I tried this but didnt have success at all, well I didn't like it. Some ppl do. I've you would like to try it, shoot for a 921 bulb.
I tried the 921-W12. $3.95 each

 

pmason - Thank you good Sir.

 

Same kind I have and I do agree they are great. I only have 1 issue, the passenger one blinks like a strobe light now and then, mostly on cold starts, no clue why. I switched it and rotated it and it just does it.

I dont have any photos but I have them in a video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzHew...e=channel_page

Best view after 1:00 minute.

 

I got mine for $7.99 a pair, I saved two bucks neener neener neener

Actuality, he has the right bulb. V-leds.com has different styles, plus he probably has it turned around, so he should be ok.

 

Well the ones I got cant work. They fit and are the right bulb #, but in the socket they are too long. They wont lock into place at all.

 

what size bulb are you referring to? There is a chart on superbrightleds that cross references which led bulbs fit into the regular filament bulb sizes

 

Odd, Mine just stated doing the same thing. I have a replacement coming for it...

 

Its the right bulb, just wrong size, I got large instead of small. So gettin the small. Problem solved.

 

looks good. if the license plate bulbs aren't bright enough for you, try hitting the inside of the socket/bulb holder with a lilttle aluminum spray paint. someone else did that and it made the output MUCH better.

 

You need a low amp flasher. LED bulbs draw much less amperage than a conventional filiment bulb, so they will flash "rapid" unless you solder in a load resister AT EACH TURN SIGNAL LOCATION, meaning you'd have to install up to 4 load resistors, or use a low amp flasher (highly recommended). WWW.superbrightleds.com sells one for our Fords (2004 to 2008). AVOID using load resisters!!!! They heat up, and would have to be removed if you went back to a filiment type bulb. The low amp flasher that is sold by superbrightleds works for both filiment AND LED bulbs; they can even be mixed (I.E. LEDs in the front, filiment in the back). The part number for the flasher is EP27L, and sells for $12.95.

 

Use 2nd bulb. U need light on reflector or U won't have very bright brake light. Also use red, not white. Rule of thumb with LEDs, use bulb same color as lens.

 

Ah, U'v discovered the dirty little secret of LED bulbs. They go bad occasionally. In my experience, during first few weeks of use, & I'm not sure paying more for "good" quality is cost effective. I had one that flickered for a week or so & has since stopped. Two others continued to blink. Also, some LED "elements" will go dark after being lit for 5-15 mins. Shut off, let cool (yes, LEDs will get warm, especially if defective) & they come back only to "die" again. I've bought all (but 1) of my small bulbs from an eBay seller, EnKMall. I tried pair of his 3157 rear/stop/turn, but they weren't bright enuf for me. http://stores.ebay.com/EnKMall - - OK quality, great prices, no S&H, arrive from Hong Kong 6-8 days, has replaced 3 defective bulbs (out of 25 purchased - 12% bad?) So, if I have 12% failure, but am spending 50% less, am I money ahead?

 

On the subject of LED bulbs (and the question was asked about cruise control), I posted on another thread (3rd LED brake) my findings. I had installed 3157 LED bulbs in the rear tail light lenses, plus a 3rd LED brake light assembly (above cab). The cruise did not work. I removed the 3rd brake light assembly and re-installed the stock one with a 921 bulb. Cruise still did not work. I re-installed the LED 3rd brake light, and removed the LED 3157 bulbs from the tail light lenses and re-installed "filiment" bulbs; cruise worked.

It was aparent that the rear tail lights are linked to the activation of the cruise; I asked on another thread if folks who bought an LED rear tail light assembly (multiple LED's on a circuit board verses just installing an LED 3157 style bulb), did their cruise still work?

I did not try one of those 3157 LED bulbs that has LED's all around the sides as well as the back (as in one of the pics posted here); I'm thinking the cruise will still not work with these as well.
Don't know if the cruise will work or not with the LED equipped tail light lenses...you might want to follow the other thread I started on this subject.

Here's the link to that thread:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...ml#post3733738

 

If I understand U'r post at above link, U did not use resistors at rear lights & as result had rapid flash. U could use resistors in front (my F-150 needed only one resistor per side) by attaching to simple flat brackets & attach brackets with existing bolts. This puts resistors out in open & heat is no problem. U can also mount brackets out in open under rear of truck. U'r LED high-mount unit may not have had resistor load. This & no load at rears results in no cruise. U don't have to do any soldering. Use quick-splice connectors & make "pig-tails" to plug into resistors.
posts in LED bulbs ??? thread.

 

No, no red, getting the cargo lights, not for the brake light portion yet.