supercab door mod (i was 170+degrees)
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Why do you consider this a problem?
FYI, if you try to lengthen the existing hinges, I think the door will be too heavy and eventually snap the bolts on the top hinge. Also notice the chevy has extra space for the extra metal. (The cutout where the hinge meets the frame).
People nitpick about the features they want. But they are just that, FEATURES. When you think about it. All the vehicle are the same (Base model) pretty much. Then they start adding things to get the different packages. The question is, if you are buying a car What BAse Model do you Want be cause it is quality. Then you add the features you want from there. I feel confident in just about any Ford from the last say 5 years.
FYI, if you try to lengthen the existing hinges, I think the door will be too heavy and eventually snap the bolts on the top hinge. Also notice the chevy has extra space for the extra metal. (The cutout where the hinge meets the frame).
People nitpick about the features they want. But they are just that, FEATURES. When you think about it. All the vehicle are the same (Base model) pretty much. Then they start adding things to get the different packages. The question is, if you are buying a car What BAse Model do you Want be cause it is quality. Then you add the features you want from there. I feel confident in just about any Ford from the last say 5 years.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,760
Likes: 4
From: Nebraska
I just ran out and looked at my reg. cab with the two little back doors. The black 'slider/stop' part, for lack of a better term, between the door and cab, is what stops the door from moving any more.
With the door all the way open, you can see that there is still room between the bed and the door, and the backside of the door and the hinges, which leaves room for the door to open a little more. If you unbolted the black "slider" dealio you should be able to open the door more, but not a whole lot more before the back side of the door would come in contact with the hinges. You COULD grind on the hinges in that area to make the door open all the way untill the outside of the door almost came into contact with the front edge of the bed.
You would have to find a way to modify that 'slider/stop' deal so the door would stop on its own and not slam into the bed, and also do the whole 'lock' into place when it opens so the door isnt just flopping in the wind.
Granted its not going to open up as far as something like the picture in this thread, but it will open up a substantial amount more than it does.
If I wasnt so lazy right now I would probably go play with mine and figure something out, it really doesnt look to hard to get another 35* or so out of it...
With the door all the way open, you can see that there is still room between the bed and the door, and the backside of the door and the hinges, which leaves room for the door to open a little more. If you unbolted the black "slider" dealio you should be able to open the door more, but not a whole lot more before the back side of the door would come in contact with the hinges. You COULD grind on the hinges in that area to make the door open all the way untill the outside of the door almost came into contact with the front edge of the bed.
You would have to find a way to modify that 'slider/stop' deal so the door would stop on its own and not slam into the bed, and also do the whole 'lock' into place when it opens so the door isnt just flopping in the wind.
Granted its not going to open up as far as something like the picture in this thread, but it will open up a substantial amount more than it does.
If I wasnt so lazy right now I would probably go play with mine and figure something out, it really doesnt look to hard to get another 35* or so out of it...