Rough day at the dealership!
Thanks for the feedback guys. I live on smooth roads, except when I worked in Detroit last summer. Worst roads I have ever driven on. I actually took the truck to the dealership as soon as I returned home to get it all checked out. They said everything was good back in August.
The original quote I got from them was $1200.00 for 2 front shocks, 2 upper control arms, two lower control arms and labor. We had a discussion with the service manager on how they charged me several hours that overlap the work. For instance, there is no need to charge me 1.5 hours to change the shocks when the front suspension is already taken apart. Just a few extra bolts and your done. After getting the labor rate down I asked them if they mind if I source the parts since I can get them them alot more reasonable. By the way the labor rate is like $89.50. Just for kicks I looked up some old tickets I had when I bought the truck in 04. The labor rate then was $64.00. Interesting, I didn't relize how much it has went up in 4 years.
I ended up being able to save $187.00 on oem parts just buy shopping around on the net at dealership websites. The dealership decided to parts match all the prices I found. The total bill will be around $700-800 including parts, labor, alignment, and miscellaneous shop supplies. Around a $400.00 savings. I'm happy!! Still sucks though, hopefully they will last longer than the first time. Next is th 60 K service, I can't wait to spend some more money on that!!
The original quote I got from them was $1200.00 for 2 front shocks, 2 upper control arms, two lower control arms and labor. We had a discussion with the service manager on how they charged me several hours that overlap the work. For instance, there is no need to charge me 1.5 hours to change the shocks when the front suspension is already taken apart. Just a few extra bolts and your done. After getting the labor rate down I asked them if they mind if I source the parts since I can get them them alot more reasonable. By the way the labor rate is like $89.50. Just for kicks I looked up some old tickets I had when I bought the truck in 04. The labor rate then was $64.00. Interesting, I didn't relize how much it has went up in 4 years.
I ended up being able to save $187.00 on oem parts just buy shopping around on the net at dealership websites. The dealership decided to parts match all the prices I found. The total bill will be around $700-800 including parts, labor, alignment, and miscellaneous shop supplies. Around a $400.00 savings. I'm happy!! Still sucks though, hopefully they will last longer than the first time. Next is th 60 K service, I can't wait to spend some more money on that!!
Yeah..Dealersthip is full of crap!
You can find better ball joints by Napa or whatever stores you like..
My 1.5" autospring level and ball joints seems holding up good so far, almost turning into 60K.
Now my question, how do you guys figure if ball joint is shot or what ??
I remebered that someone mention about lift tire off the ground and do some shaking tires to see if theres some playing ?? by hand 12-6 and 3-9 ?
Thanks!
YOMAN!
You can find better ball joints by Napa or whatever stores you like..
My 1.5" autospring level and ball joints seems holding up good so far, almost turning into 60K.
Now my question, how do you guys figure if ball joint is shot or what ??
I remebered that someone mention about lift tire off the ground and do some shaking tires to see if theres some playing ?? by hand 12-6 and 3-9 ?
Thanks!
YOMAN!
yea but you need to leave the suspension loaded, meaning the weight of the truck still on the suspension. Jack up by the bottom of the strut area and check ball joint play by putting a large pry bar under the tire and lifting up on it slightly. There should be no play in the ball joint before the suspension starts to move.
There is no way I have ran into this issue before. If you dont align the front camber when you put the spacers in then it will eat up the inside of the tires. I have seen it twice and the place who installed the spacer never aligned the front. So they ended up paying for the align and a set of tires. I would of asked them if they were loose, because that the only reason to replace the ball joints. Unless the boots wear torn.
I bet they saw the tires and the level and pulled one on you. Sometime you have to watch out for some dealers.
I bet they saw the tires and the level and pulled one on you. Sometime you have to watch out for some dealers.
There is no way I have ran into this issue before. If you dont align the front camber when you put the spacers in then it will eat up the inside of the tires. I have seen it twice and the place who installed the spacer never aligned the front. So they ended up paying for the align and a set of tires. I would of asked them if they were loose, because that the only reason to replace the ball joints. Unless the boots wear torn.
I bet they saw the tires and the level and pulled one on you. Sometime you have to watch out for some dealers.
I bet they saw the tires and the level and pulled one on you. Sometime you have to watch out for some dealers.

There is no way I have ran into this issue before. If you dont align the front camber when you put the spacers in then it will eat up the inside of the tires. I have seen it twice and the place who installed the spacer never aligned the front. So they ended up paying for the align and a set of tires. I would of asked them if they were loose, because that the only reason to replace the ball joints. Unless the boots wear torn.
I bet they saw the tires and the level and pulled one on you. Sometime you have to watch out for some dealers.
I bet they saw the tires and the level and pulled one on you. Sometime you have to watch out for some dealers.

When I put a 2" leveling kit on my truck after I installed it the tires were toed in horribly bad. I took it to Hillard (have a friend there who's a Ford tech) and he aligned it back to spec. It's all about how competent the technician is.
Luckily NTB has a good alignment guy. I haven't had any tire or suspension wear issues with the drop.
You know look at my setup it comes to me that the upper control arm is really really down, it actually looks to be putting pressue in werid places. I used a topgunz spacer.
When I changed my brake pads my arm was resting up on the bottom of the spring itself of course im not going to be doing any off-roading to that point but I bet if I was to let her travel id say 2 inches on the front i would hit my springs.
Just another reason I though about un-installing it.
When I changed my brake pads my arm was resting up on the bottom of the spring itself of course im not going to be doing any off-roading to that point but I bet if I was to let her travel id say 2 inches on the front i would hit my springs.
Just another reason I though about un-installing it.
There are no zerks or provision for greasing them. Have any of you ever felt the boot on the ball joint, even when the truck was new? They don't put enough grease in 'em to make it around the block. For gosh sakes, if they're gonna make them non- greaseable, they ought to put enough grease in at the factory to keep 'em from wearing out before your 1st oil change. My brother's '07 was the same way, it feels like they put it together without any grease in the ball, the boots are empty and his only has 10k mi. on it!
There are no zerks or provision for greasing them. Have any of you ever felt the boot on the ball joint, even when the truck was new? They don't put enough grease in 'em to make it around the block. For gosh sakes, if they're gonna make them non- greaseable, they ought to put enough grease in at the factory to keep 'em from wearing out before your 1st oil change. My brother's '07 was the same way, it feels like they put it together without any grease in the ball, the boots are empty and his only has 10k mi. on it!




