Yup, start at the solenoid and work down and DO NOT use compressed air to force anything through, water or WD40. Take the lines apart as you go and put back together as you go if you plan to go this route. No, WD40 will not hurt rubber. You're good.

 

...still waiting for the actuators to come in.

TN-150, if you're still looking for a source, I ordered from Silverstate Ford. Their actuators (2x plus shipping) were about $178.

...if you guys have to drive and the actuators are acting up, disengage the vacuum line at the 1st check valve from the engine and plug the line (on the engine side). That will keep your actuators engaged (and not grinding) until you get around to fixing them. Per XJCamaro's writings.

My right actuator won't disengage at all, with direct vacuum applied to it. The left has a slow leak that does like most of us have heard-the high pitched grinding/buzzing. Come on, parts...

 

My truck is LONG gone but thanks. I think mine were less than that for both. I ordered one from Tasca and one from Bob Utter.

Engaging the actuators all the time will cause the front axles to spin as well and will be like driving on pavement in 4HI. I would not recommend that, nor does FORD.

Good luck...

 

Yesterday I replaced the actuators on both sides. The right side would not even compress by hand when it was removed (so it was permanently engaged). One side of that actuator acted like something inside the unit was blocking it internally, so it could not disengage at all. Lots of tacky black (used to be) grease in that side. The left side was less bad, but both showed evidence of water contamination. First 3 years of the truck's life were in Michigan, and the unprotected ferous metal parts underneach show lots of salt corrosion/rust. Reconnected the vacuum line-no vacuum leaks at all. I'll find out on the next long drive if everything is good. At least the harder parts are done/replaced.

Working in the driveway with no jackstands is not to be recommended. Ugh.

The IWE actuator bolts take a 5/16 socket, not a 15/16! I had to us an adjustable Crescent wrench instead of the 21mm needed for the steering and upper control nuts. All, get a 21mm deepwell socket if you want to save time!

While I was at it I replaced all the brake pads and flushed the brakes. Also replaced the fuel filter. For all the above, by the local dealer estimates I just saved about $1200 in labor. I can spend some of that on a Gryphon!

 

double post

 

Good deal and good catch on the wrench size. I fixed it on page 1. 15/16" would be pretty big!

 

I had this same problem yesterday on our 2006 F-150 4x4 with 79,587 miles. Saw your threads and did what you said; bought the solenoid ($28) and the two IWE Acuators ($121 each) and the results are the noise stopped once I changed the solenoid out. Will change the acuators out this weekend as preventative maintenance. Thanks for all the good pictures and words!

 

Lots of information on this thread. MY IWE's were toast and a local "friend of a friend" mechanic replaced both hubs but says the cause of the grinding is still there. He warned me to NOT shift on the fly or i will ruin the new IWE's.

I have seen reference to solenoid and actuators causing this problem.

Is that something I can do myself? does anyone have a "How to" guide to it?

**EDIT**

Just found out that this problem for ME is not the solenoid. He says its coming from inside the transfer case. Anyone know?

 

TN-F150 thanks for all your help. I replaced the IWE actuators yesterday and that solved my problem. My first side took about 45 minutes to do because I wanted to make sure I was doing it right and the second side only took 20 minutes. Once I got the actuator pulled out from the hub, I had about a small spoonfull of water drain from each side. The grease was pretty black but I did not have any metal in it or rust. Pretty good considering they have been grinding since Nov 09, when the nor-easter came thru town.

Here are the sizes of sockets I used.

13/16 - remove lug nuts
13mm - wheel end nut
8 mm - to remove 3 integrated wheel end bolts.
21mm - to remove tie-rod nut and upper ball joint nut.

I put the truck on jack stands made the job much easier.

Thanks to everyone for all the great posts.

Next 2 jobs are to fix the "soft brake pedal" and replace the spark plugs in my 2004 4x4 f150 5.4 liter supercrew.

 

I would recommend EBC Green Stuff pads and black rotors. I put them all the way round my 2004 and was AMAZED at the difference over stock pads and rotors. And almost zero dust.

 

I don't want to read through all the posts to check if I already posted this trouble shooting link. Here it is again, if so. I also have an edited upgraded version I can send anybody who wants it (too long to post here) word doc.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/83...then-some.html

 

To the guy who emailed me and won't except emails back through the forum, I don't have any pics of where the solenoid is but it's on the upper firewall on the passenger side, with two vacuum connections.

 

I have pics, but can't attach here...

 

Just found this thread.. WOW. What an awesome resource. I think I'm at the beginning stages of this problem, but I'd like to hear what you think. My symptoms are below. This was diagnosed as a vacuum leak in another thread, which I'm sure it is, but this seems like the right place to post it:

2006 F-150, 4x4, 5.4, 30,000 miles

For the last two months there's been a LOUD hissing noise coming from my front end. It sounds like forced air from a compressor. Here are the conditions:

1) Only under load - not Park or Neutral
2) Begins under light throttle in any gear
3) Continues if throttle position is maintained or increased
4) Goes away if I let off the throttle or engage 4WD
5) When switching back to 2WD, noise stays gone as long I stay in the same gear


Thanks!

 

Very nice write up TN-F150.
I had the dealer do my driver side as i was about to do a long vacation drive and the grinding started two days before i left so i had them replace it. I will definitely do the passenger side when it needs doing.