Need some expert advice.

My electronic shift is not engaging either 4H or 4L. No LED dash light indicating such nor do I hear any sound indicating that it or is trying to engage. No clicking sounds no NOTHING??

I checked all the fuses that were related to 4x4 and all seem fine. There were some relay switches, but since I am mechanically challenged with these types of things I haven't a clue on what to do with them.

I did a search and saw some info pertaining to transfer case motors. How could I tell if it were the motor or not? Without taking it to the dealer and paying a fortune is there anything I can do first to eliminate what may or may not be causing this?

thanks in advance.

 

Mine did the same thing with less than 12k on it. It was the shift motor on the transfer case. You can whack it on the side a few times with a hammer and see if that gets it working again. If it does it will only be temporary and you will need to get it replaced.

 

Thanks, It would seem that the shift motor would be the likely cause. Anyway to test or find out if it is for sure without just replacing it first? Hate to replace it and then find out it's not the culprit. If it were a solenoid or relay would you still hear a noise when trying to shift?

 

Impact therapy seems to be the way that most people, including dealerships test it.

 

...?

 

The ESOF motor has been a problem (early failures) for as long as I can remember. Mine went the second winter up here. If a solid thwacking doesn't wake it up, get ready for about a $400 repair at the dealer.

 

I did some checking and seems you can buy the (remanufactured) motor online for about $140. looks like a few bolts and wiring piece that plugs in to something? Is there more to this than it would appear? Doesn't appear to be too difficult looking, just bolt on a new one and plug'er in.??

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...431306k1079113

 

That would probably do it. I think there's another part that goes on a regular basis along with that motor though. Seems to me like they replaced a valve or something up on the passenger side firewall too.

 

Talked to the parts guy at the local dealership and a new factory motor is $300 yikes He also mentioned a solenoid under the hood on the passenger side fender wall area near the battery. He mentioned that they have seen those go bad as well causing the same problem. $30 for the solenoid. I'll have a friend check that to see if it's getting power before I replace it. Meanwhile I'll give the motor a rap with the hammer to see if it activates again. Thanks for the ideas.

 

Have you checked the simple things like a bad fuse or a bad switch?

 

Fuses were the first thing I checked. A ok.

I rapped the motor a few times with a hammer and that seemed to do the trick. Drove the truck off pavement for awhile in 4H then switched to 4L, alternating back and forth from 2H to 4H then to 4L, then back to 2H. Everything is working fine for now. I may take the motor off and clean it up some to see if will stay working, otherwise I will just replace the motor.

 

When you replace it you need to seal around the circular mounting flange with hi-temp silicone. The wiring part involves removing a pin from the connector on the original shift motor and installing it in the connector of the replacement shift motor. This shift motor design has been prone to failure ever since they were introduced back in the 90's. I had one fail on my '91 explorer the same way. Evidently Ford makes good money selling the replacements so they don't seem to have any incentive to redesign it and fix the problem.

 

I have been watching this thread My 4 wheel drive went out after my mfg warrenty expired I bought a ford esp before the mfg warrenty expired All of the lights for 4high 4 low lite up but would not engage I took it back to my ford dealer It turned out that they had to replace a shift rod in the transfer case The bill was over $600.00 I only had to pay $100.00 I hope this fix could help other members that read this post

 

It's very easy to remove and replace the shift motor. Also, to find out if all is working you can manually engage your transfer case by removing the shift motor and turning that rod with a pair of pliers.

 

are the vacuum lines on the front hubs connected??!