well I just got them installed and loved them for a few min. Then one of the lights just went out. The ballast doesn't even make a noise like the other one does.

Its causing me to blow fuses. No biggey. The digital lights retro are amazing. There is no flicker like the xentechs had and they are amazingly bright. Sorry for assuming it was the product, I would reccomend retro to anyone.

 

I guess that guy was shoveling chit just to sell you something. Sucks you had to be the guinea pig...

 

Now the real test begins. .....

 

stupid fuses...

 

Sounds like you need to impove the ground wire. How is it hooked up? Does it draw power through the stock headlight wires?

 

have you tried calling the guy to cash in on your lifetime warranty???

 

Yeah they just tap into my stock harness, through the projector beam. stupid fuses...

 

So you do not have the relay harness? If not then there is your problem. I had the same thing going on and quickly got myself a harness, no more problems!

 

You need to set it up on a relay and improve the ground.
This is a MUST on a 55w system.

 

On a positive note, I love the color of these better then the xentechs. My 6000k xentechs were 8000k I think. They were much blueer. One of these HID's is just as brite as 2 of the other ones. It is a much whiter light, which is what I originally wanted.

 

How to wire up a relay with your HID’s:

I'll explain what you need to do here in case the schematics are a bit confusing...

There should be 4 connectors on the relay itself and they should be marked pretty much like this:
87
86
85
30
Each one of the above numbers has a Male connector coming out of it. To connect the appropriate wires you must use female crimp connectors. I would make sure these connectors aren't crimped and that you solder them (but crimping will work to start-at least until you know they work).
Here is what each of those 4 numbers means:
A) 87 : It's the power output that goes directly to the ballast (put an in-line 15A fuse in this line b/w relay and ballast). This basically is power coming straight out of the battery and thru the relay and to your ballast so use heavy gauge wire like 12AWG or similar.

B) 86 : This is basically a ground wire for the circuit or relay. I just hooked up my negative terminal of the battery to this but others may suggest that you find a quality ground on the chassis. Try the chassis but MAKE SURE it's a quality ground. If not, it may appear like it's working but you may get intermittent problems with a faulty ground. If not sure-start with the battery.

C) 85 : This goes straight into the hot lead that turns on your low beams. Use a tester and find out which lamp going into your low beams (before it was HID) goes on when you turn on your headlight low beam switch. This is the one that you can use an in-line splice or find a way to solder this in place. This will simply tell the relay (when you turn on your low beams from inside your car) to pull current directly from the battery. This is why it's important to do this. It's a very simple design yet ingenious in many ways. You can still incorporate your OEM headlamp switch but not stress out the wiring associated with it.

D) 30 : You connect this straight to the positive terminal on the battery. B/w the relay and positive terminal on the battery you MUST put a 30A fuse in-line. If you don't you defeat the whole purpose of this setup.
**Unless you have one relay for each ballast then it's just 15A main fuse**
Now, I only used one relay for both ballasts.
So, for the wire coming out of #87 and going to the ballast I soldered another wire in to go to the second ballast.
If you want to go with one relay per ballast then your main fuse coming out of #30 and going to the battery can be 15A for each one.
Just make sure you use the right wiring (12AWG at minimum) for the wiring that goes from #30 to the battery and 12-14AWG for any wiring coming out of 87 and going to either of the ballasts.
#85 and #86 do not need special wiring as one is only a ground and the other is simply a trigger for the relay to switch. Don’t get skimpy here though as a bad/inconsistent ground can cause all sorts of odd electrical problems.
*** You may need 10AWG or 12AWG wire for the negative just to be safe. There are a few reasons for this but mostly, you just want to make sure your ground doesn't fail. Go big and you'll be happy.

Hope this helps!

 

THANK YOU!!! I will try this when I get off work. Do you think the ballast I have now will still work? I dont have Bi-xenon, just low beams. So is all the wiring still the same.

 

hey squirt one thing i would definitely check is the plug going into the ballast. i was in the same boat as u and thought i was the guinea pig to get stuck with the faulty kit. when i look at the plug going to the ballast it seemed to not be making good contact. Solution, get a needle or paperclip and pry the connector out more so it will make better contact to the ballast when you plug it in. and the connector im talking about isnt the plastic things on the top, its the metal pins that make contact with the ballast when its plugged in. its worth a shot to check.

 

Hey, im sorry to hear of your problem. If you contact Todd He will definitely help you out, no questions asked. Someone posted in the other thread within the last hour, once he is directed to this thread Im sure he will chime in and do his best to help.

For now, Definitely check your fuses by the passenger side door before you go to turn on the HID's with the relay insstalled. The new body style f150's have 6 headlight fuses I believe.

1)passenger low
2)driver low
3)passenger High
4)driver High
5)30A low beam master fuse (secondary low-beam fuse for both passenger and driver sides)
6)30A high beam master fuse (secondary High-beam fuse for both passenger and driver sides)

Just flip through your manual and It will direct you to which fuse is where on the panel. I just dont want you to have everything wired correctly and ready to go but have blown fuses when you try to start em' up and get no results. That would be very frustrating if you didnt know to check the fuses...

(THis is if you have newer body-style f150, if you have the herritage, I have no clue about the fuses)

Without a relay, My stock fuses would blow on startup with HID's every so often. I had to change the low-beam fuses about 6 times before I got a relay. Just look up the low beam passenger and driver side fuses in the manual, pull em out and see if they are blown. You might also want to check that 30 amp fuse, also while your down there. But I doubt that one is blown. Better safe than sorry though.

If this is the problem, you could upgrade your fuses I guess, but I highly recommend a relay which is probably what you are going to do anyways, since you have a couple layin' around.

Again, sorry to hear about this. Todd Needs to see this ASAP!

 

thank you ford boy and sorry retro. It was just a fuse. I just need to get a relay. woohoo