2004 - 2008 F-150

retro solutions hid problems

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  #16  
Old 07-23-2008, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by squirtbottle09
thank you ford boy and sorry retro. It was just a fuse. I just need to get a relay. woohoo
YES! haha. That makes my day, and I am sure it makes yours as well.

I AM somewhat dissapointed though. Retro claims the starting current for these HID's to be below 15A. Somewhere around 7A. I guess not.

I believe I read that you have the low-beam only hid kit. If so, you should be able to use your spare relay. If you have the BIxenon, get one from Retro. Each kit has their own relay and works the High/low function differently. I learned this the hard way. :o Had to buy another relay for a previouse kit.

EDIT:
Retro and I posted at the same exact time, didnt see his post before I posted the above.

Regarding the Relay:
Originally Posted by Retro-Solutions:
If you need a harness we'll give you one, no big deal, you don't have to make your own.
If you get a relay, a low battery or anything of that nature shouldnt matter. You wont have any problems. Its just nice to have piece of mind that your lights wont blow fuses due to low battery charge or anything of that nature in my opinion. Just go with a relay, its free

PS: Thanks for the quick response, Todd. I told you guys he would help the second he was directed to this thread!! A+ in my book.
 

Last edited by fordboy05; 07-23-2008 at 12:48 AM.
  #17  
Old 07-23-2008, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by retrosolutions
Just spot checked ballasts yesterday, working of a 12v lead acid battery, not under charge at testing (~11.8v) the 55w still started under 7.5A and 35w under 6.5A.
Would a 10A fuse test video help drive this point home to anyone???
ouuuuuuuuuu. Very good Idea. You know, You could also put that on your website. Just provides a little more proof to those who are skeptical

Its up to you though todd.
 
  #18  
Old 07-23-2008, 12:54 AM
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Before i put a relay on my foglight HIDs, my "cheapo" ballasts that apparently are 17A to start still never blew that fuse. So i dont think these 7.5A ones would.

I bet the problem is elsewhere, probably a short or poor ground.
 
  #19  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by mSaLL150
I bet the problem is elsewhere, probably a short or poor ground.
X2

Make sure your plugs into your ballasts are not backwards. I have done that before.... :o blows that 15A fuse almost instantly.

haha

Oh, and thank you Elvato, for directing Todd this way to clear some things up!
 

Last edited by fordboy05; 07-23-2008 at 01:11 AM.
  #20  
Old 07-23-2008, 01:32 AM
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okay sorry retro but there wasn't a number to contact you so I just posted on here asking for help. And considering you were on the forum I figured you would reply. I do have auto headlights which I believe was the problem. They work just fine as long as I manually turn them on, however I would like to continue to use the auto setting. I have a new optima battery and my radar detector did not beep low Volts. It's because of the auto HL. A harnes would be awsome. Again sorry for jumping the gun and assuming it was y'all. Retro has a great product that is crazy bright, an awsome 6000k color, and I love how they charge up when turned on. I took pics but am posting this from my itouch and can't upload them.

Once again sorry retro. And I would reccomed this product (actually already have) to anyone. If a harnass is available it would be awsome.

Squirt
 
  #21  
Old 07-23-2008, 02:35 AM
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Problem Solved
 
  #22  
Old 07-23-2008, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by retrosolutions
Here is the thing, your radar detector is not hooked up to the headlamp wiring.
The auto-on lamps with the vehicle in the off position must work off of pulsed current. So, even though it is still working off 12v, it is like a light switch going on and off very fast, the effective voltage is less, and what the ballasts receives depends on how fast (hertz) and the type of waveform. So, taking that into account let's say the effective voltage is cut in half, 6v
The ballast maintains the same output given variable input conditions, so if under normal 12v constant supply that means 6.5A, for the sake of argument that is 78 watts peak in-rush power. If the ballast is only getting 6v, that must become 13A, to supply the power needed to ramp-up the HID bulb reaction.
What we can try in this case is wiring harness with capacitance added to it. In effect that will cause a depolarization during the "off" phase of the pulsed voltage keeping the relay closed. The only drawback is it will also make the lights stay on a second after the switch is turned off.
You still have to contact us directly though, because we only have your real name and address, I really have no clue who you really are by "squirtbottle09"
I will send yall an email with all my information. I dont think you can PM yet. I understand about the auto lights, I said about the radar dector to determin that my battery wasnt low, and they it what the problem of getting a certain amount of power to the headlights when on the auto setting.
 
  #23  
Old 07-23-2008, 03:56 PM
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Todd, I have the auto-on lamps too, with the regular Harness. Without the "capacitance" added, will this "hurt" my ballasts, bulbs, or stress the wiring at all?
 
  #24  
Old 07-24-2008, 10:22 AM
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Well here they are. This is before I aimed, leveled, anything.





 
  #25  
Old 07-25-2008, 11:32 AM
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Sorry todd. I assumed and you know what happens when you do that. Yalls customer service is great and you are really helpfull. I jumped the gun and made us all look bad. Retro-Solutions is a great company that I would defiantly do buisness with again. As a matter of fact, I think my dad is about to order his set now, lol.
 



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