For those with the power tailgate
For those with the power tailgate
So tonight I finished my power unlocking/unlatching tailgate. My only proglem is that when I hit the 'trunk' release button, if I haven't already unlocked the tailgate, the gate doesn't open. (I hope this is clear). What I need to happen is when I push the trunk release button, it first unlocks the lock, then pulls the latch. Anyone know of any ways of wiring this? I don't think it would work if it were happening simultaneously, the gate would have to unlock first, then a second later pull the latch. Also, this mod is fairly inexpensive and very straight forward and well woth the investment. I no longer have to worry about my tailgate being stolen or my cargo being secure under my tonneau. BTW here is a link to the ideas I 'Borrowed'
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...tailgate+power

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...tailgate+power
this can very easily be done with a few relays. you would have to push the same button twice, once to unlock and once to open. theres a more complicated way with relays a capacitor and resistors to have one push do two functions in a timed sequence but i honestly would have to put more thought into that than i really want to.
I can get you a relay pic diagram with the wiring connections on each if you tell me what polarity your alarm/keyless is pulsing. (basically what is your "trunk" release button giving, a pos or a neg signal) i would assume your pulsing neg thru the keyless to a relay which in turn gives 12v pos to the grounded solenoids?
Just let me know how you have it set up right now and ill get you a diagram of how you should wire it to do two pulses.
I can get you a relay pic diagram with the wiring connections on each if you tell me what polarity your alarm/keyless is pulsing. (basically what is your "trunk" release button giving, a pos or a neg signal) i would assume your pulsing neg thru the keyless to a relay which in turn gives 12v pos to the grounded solenoids?
Just let me know how you have it set up right now and ill get you a diagram of how you should wire it to do two pulses.
I don't currently have the power trunk release remote activated. I am in the process of trying to figure that out too. As far as the wiring goes, the release is continuously grounded with a push button, fused switch inline on the 12v side. I have the switch mounted in my center console and I would love to tie into it with my remote, although I don't like the idea of accidentally opening it by unlocking my doors too many times or something. Thanks for the insight. Electrical engineering was not my strongest subject but, I can read schematics and wiring diagrams if you have something. Thanks,
Aaron
Aaron
easy, the trunk unlatch is on the entire time you hold the button down, so if you wired the trunk release to the solinoid and the lock it would unlock the lock and open the solinoid, but that may not work since the the latch would be pulled about the same tiem as being unlocked and may not work but then just hit the button again and it would work
btw thanks for the credit
o and fabian if he is using the code alarm, he can choose the polarity and its constant not pulsed
btw thanks for the credit
o and fabian if he is using the code alarm, he can choose the polarity and its constant not pulsed
Last edited by azmidget91; May 6, 2008 at 01:06 PM.
The only thing I am worried about with that idea is that 1. the unlock and unlatch occurring at the same time might not work (kind of like if someone is pulling the passenger handle when you hit the unlock button) and 2. If I wire the unlock and release feature together, I am concerned that it will work in both directions eg: I unlock the tailgate, it unlatches also; I unlatch the tailgate, it unlocks also. I wouldn't want the tailgate dropping everytime I hit the unlock button twice on the remote.
If i understand you correctly you have a switch right now feeding 12v+ to the pop solenoid. Im also going to assume that you have the lock solenoid already wired into the factory lock unlock buttons. that is why you say you have to unlock (via door buttons or remote) first THEN hit your console switch correct?
hmm ok so you wanna make it complicated.
You want to lock, but unlock as well. And when it unlocks you want it to open too. Just not every the time you hit the unlock... lol
man i gotta level with you, that is a complication that you are just creating.
Tie your lock solenoid to the pass side lock wires(guessing you already did). Your tailgate will lock and unlock with the factory remote and door swtiches. Then just wire the trunk remote button to just open the tailgate. I know this is what you are trying to avoid but it just makes more sense from a remote standpoint. you dont want to accidently pop the trunk..er tailgate.
I mean its not that much harder to just unlock the truck first then pop the tailgate.
Now if you want, you can do the above and also wire the console button to do the unlocking AND poping, but the button is the only thing that will do both and it will only unlock... no locking, and with a somewhat complicated wiring setup involving a few relays and a latching relay. Also im not sure how it will affect the rest of the locks since the tailgate lock will be tied into the the whole system while you are using the console button. You would have to isolate the current from the switch to the lock solenoid so it doesnt draw back thru and unlock ALL the locks. AND even then im thinking you will still have to push the console button twice given that youll probably need a latching relay.
Im good at figuring these sorts of things out i just have to be hands on, and i am pretty horrible at explaining them so just bear with me.
hmm ok so you wanna make it complicated.
You want to lock, but unlock as well. And when it unlocks you want it to open too. Just not every the time you hit the unlock... lol
man i gotta level with you, that is a complication that you are just creating.
Tie your lock solenoid to the pass side lock wires(guessing you already did). Your tailgate will lock and unlock with the factory remote and door swtiches. Then just wire the trunk remote button to just open the tailgate. I know this is what you are trying to avoid but it just makes more sense from a remote standpoint. you dont want to accidently pop the trunk..er tailgate.
I mean its not that much harder to just unlock the truck first then pop the tailgate.
Now if you want, you can do the above and also wire the console button to do the unlocking AND poping, but the button is the only thing that will do both and it will only unlock... no locking, and with a somewhat complicated wiring setup involving a few relays and a latching relay. Also im not sure how it will affect the rest of the locks since the tailgate lock will be tied into the the whole system while you are using the console button. You would have to isolate the current from the switch to the lock solenoid so it doesnt draw back thru and unlock ALL the locks. AND even then im thinking you will still have to push the console button twice given that youll probably need a latching relay.
Im good at figuring these sorts of things out i just have to be hands on, and i am pretty horrible at explaining them so just bear with me.
oh and az, i thought he was using the factory keyless module.
I read his other thread where he is trying to get the trunk button on his fusion fob mod to work for this.
thats pretty cool that you can choose polarity, is it selectable for each function or do all functions have to have the same setting? good write-up too btw.
You should get back on that console, im waiting for pics so that i can do mine.
I read his other thread where he is trying to get the trunk button on his fusion fob mod to work for this.
thats pretty cool that you can choose polarity, is it selectable for each function or do all functions have to have the same setting? good write-up too btw.
You should get back on that console, im waiting for pics so that i can do mine.
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The only thing I am worried about with that idea is that 1. the unlock and unlatch occurring at the same time might not work (kind of like if someone is pulling the passenger handle when you hit the unlock button) and 2. If I wire the unlock and release feature together, I am concerned that it will work in both directions eg: I unlock the tailgate, it unlatches also; I unlatch the tailgate, it unlocks also. I wouldn't want the tailgate dropping everytime I hit the unlock button twice on the remote.
as for the polartiy switching its only for the door unlock, trunk release, and i think the dome light i dunno
o and the console, im porbably waiting till i get my $600 from the government to buy more materials for it....
I guess what I am trying to do is make it so that when I hit the tailgate release button in my console that it drops the gate whether it is locked or unlocked. It is the how that I am searching for. I might just try and tie into the power unlock wire with the feed from the unlatch button and see if the timing works out so it unlocks a split second before it opens. It seems that the loock actuator is a little quicker to respond than the trunk release is.
I guess what I am trying to do is make it so that when I hit the tailgate release button in my console that it drops the gate whether it is locked or unlocked. It is the how that I am searching for. I might just try and tie into the power unlock wire with the feed from the unlatch button and see if the timing works out so it unlocks a split second before it opens. It seems that the loock actuator is a little quicker to respond than the trunk release is.
If you want to do that, just get another solenoid (I dont think an actuator would be strong enough) and hook one on each latch rod. That way it will pull them at the same time and drop the tailgate weather the handle is locked or not.
Also, on the Code Alarms they are not all programmable-only the higher end ones are programmable. The entry level units provide a momentary ground ONLY.
If you want to do that, just get another solenoid (I dont think an actuator would be strong enough) and hook one on each latch rod. That way it will pull them at the same time and drop the tailgate weather the handle is locked or not.
Also, on the Code Alarms they are not all programmable-only the higher end ones are programmable. The entry level units provide a momentary ground ONLY.
Also, on the Code Alarms they are not all programmable-only the higher end ones are programmable. The entry level units provide a momentary ground ONLY.
the 2 actuators on the rods is a great idea
the ca-671 you can switch it and its not in the programming its how you place the fuse
I was talking about using 2 (trunk release) solenoids instead of 2 (door lock) actuators. I'm not sure the actuators would be strong enough, but they would be a lot cheaper). But then again, he already had one so hes only looking at one more.
No to hijack the thread or anything but I figured its kinda pointless to start up a second thread over pretty much the same topic.
Ok guys I have just installed the trunk solenoid and I do have the power lock on the tail gate as well. I have it to where it will release the tail gate and drop it fine. But the once my tailgate locks the lock binds up and my tailgate gets stuck. Any ideas? I will be tinkering with it tonight so any and all help would be appricated. Thanks again
Ok guys I have just installed the trunk solenoid and I do have the power lock on the tail gate as well. I have it to where it will release the tail gate and drop it fine. But the once my tailgate locks the lock binds up and my tailgate gets stuck. Any ideas? I will be tinkering with it tonight so any and all help would be appricated. Thanks again
If you look at the top of this thread there is a link click that. Its where I got my information to do it! And actually I am working on using an electric actuator to raise and lower it instead but thats down the road right now I need to get my tail gate lock to quite binding.



Just kidding.