need to note that my temp sensor leaked water into the number 4, 5, and 6 cylinder plug holes. first run dead miss but not outragious.

...........60'........330'.........594'.........1/8thET....mph
dried plugs
1. 2.1102......6.0182.......8.6220.......9.2012....77 .69-------run on six cylinders
dried plugs
2. 2.3288......6.8218.......9.6818.......10.3386..68. 51-added fuel,backfiring 3 cylinders
dried plugs
3. 2.1409......5.8858.......8.4270.......8.9930...79. 49-took fuel out, miss off line
dried plugs
4. 1.9549......5.5462.......8.0292.......8.5811...81. 53-hit limiter hard 2-3 shift nosed over

last years best run before modding the intake with a heat gun

60' 2.103
330 5.8930
594 8.442
1/8 9.0109
mph 79.09



hp calculator says:
last year:
Your HP computed from your vehicle MPH is 277.54 flywheel HP and 249.786 rear wheel HP. almost exactly what the dyno said.

this year:
Your HP computed from your vehicle MPH is 304.03 flywheel HP and 273.627 rear wheel HP.


forget the flywheel stuff i am an automatic. add about 30 hp for flywheel number or around 335hp.


this is a car with stock manifolds,untuned, with UDP's, t-stat, fuel pressure regulator, and CMC delete only. automatic stock tranny. there is another .2 just in tuned and shift.



27hp from just using a heat gun and some silicone sealer.

 

a car at our track running 8.78 runs 13.3 in the 1/4. bolt-on 2005 gt's run 8.70's.

i am 12.90 - 13.10 in the 1/4. the 2-3 shift hurts me, but there is no shifting after that. i will make up a little.

 

I was told a hot engine will run more efficient.

Tell me about this "heat gun and silicone" 27hp mod. Was that the CMC delete thread you posted? What is the reason for the CMC if it nets better performance removed?

 

i will get back in a while, but in short the cmc's are for emisions, part throttle.

on a 4.6 the cmc's have extra space so they dont hurt power. on 5.4's they interfere in flow a great deal. even the injector bungs interfere in 5.4 3v's.

taking them out WILL add power. they restrict it a bunch.


my heat gun mod will be detailed later. suffice to say i tapered the runners by heating them up and moving the plastic. also enlarged the inlet from 75mm round stock to 75mm square shape. 75mm x 75mm square instead of round.



BBL.

 

Have you ever wanted to see California? :]

I'd fly you out here to have you do these mods.

 

Wow josiah

 

start by taking out those stupid cmc plates. a little time and silicone is all it will cost you.

consider this fact:
C&L did a study of making a new 4.6 3v intake. they dropped the idea after realizing the stocker flowed as much as the heads. no gains to be had.

a 4.6 3v intake flows 239cfm for the best runner and 235 for the worst.
the intake is plastic and the cmc's are aluminum add-ons.

the cmc's are about .025 bigger than the intake's runners. or .050 all around. the cmc plates themselves are thinner than a 5.4 3v.

our intake does not flow 230cfm. i dont have any flow data to back that up, but the injector bungs, and cmc's are taking up valuable runner cross section. that restricts.

my dyno sheet peaks torque at 3650 @ 340 rwtq with no plates. you dont need a lower rpm torque peak. so lose the plates.

 

now the mod.

back up to all of the 100 things i have tried and failed with these intakes. cut up. shortened, glued, plenum sizes, upper intakes. throttle bodies. i have welded and discarded countless upper intakes alone. different diameters, thicknesses, and tapers of lower to upper adapters for the stock 75mm TB.

from resealing the plenum cover, to capping the ends that are exposed when the runners are cut for shortening. none of that stuff was necessary in the end. but i think all day long on a fresh approach to this stuff.

 

hey Assasinator, do you have the 5.4 in a Mustang, or a Mustang PCM in your F-150?

and if it's in a Mustang, do you have a thread detailing the swap?

 

the one thing i knew would work with any intake design in the world is tapered runners.

we are stuck with small cross-section long runners for low end. my goal had to figure out a way to taper them. i tried to make foam tapered inserts with fiber glass coatings. resonances would have torn them apart and sucked them into the intake.

i tried welded metal dividers that set the runners in pairs 1,5 2,6 3,7 4,8. no gains. the problem with that approach is probably firing order where the adjacent cylinder ruins resonance ram.

so i started researching glues for dupont XYTEL(our intakes). XYTEL was one of the first polymers. technically an ester. it was invented in the 30's.

impervious to acids, fuels, solvents, glues, acetones, etc. it is what is called a thermo plastic.

THERMO i needed to use heat. but how. i tried a map gas torch on plastic i have laying around. too hot and localized. propane- no good. i need 700*F and spread oput over a surface area. so i used a heat gun and a small butane torch to heat the plastic to moving temperature and keep it there long enough for the plastic to get almost liquid. i heatd as far down the runner as i could reach. about 4". i used a cut off broom handle to move and shape the plastic into lager diameter runners. working it to where it runners are as smooth as factory finish. i added trumpets by using the extra plastic at the mouth of the runners.

i also broke through in a couple or places. no worries. i heated and moved the plastic to cover the holes. no biggie. no air leaks.

so......

 

it the stock 96 pcm

go to stangnet tech section for swap details. i have a few fellows that i have talked through it if you are serious i can get you in contact.

 

now the inlet....
75mm is ok. it's not technically a restriction. but...

800 cfm limit doesn't sound like an issue does it. 75 is ok. but what we are talking about is pressure drops.

fact: the larger the openings(limits there are), the further inside the intake manifold the pressure drops are. if i can have 0 psig pressure at the mouth of the runners i have no limitation in the inlet system . HP gained from my approach is small. but it is added to other small increments.

going to a 80mm c&l = 9.5 1/8th to 9.2 1/8th.
going to a twin 57mm= 9.2 1/8th to 9.0109 1/8th
modding intake = 9.0109 1/8th to 8.58 1/8th


all of that is to limit pressure drops.

4" pvc maf and inlet system is next. (tuner in mail)

 

the lower runners are ok, but without added inlet size this intake's effectiveness is minor. heat gun again. heated in between the cast-in nuts, and extended the plastic to a rough square shape. altered the upper stainless adapter and there we are.

 

i will do one better josiah. i am considering putting it on ebay with the 05 stang dual 55mm TB on it.

i am pulling this motor an may and swapping to a 4.6 3v. i will not need this intake after that. gas milege is too crappy. i need 30 mpg.

 

I'd definitely want it so let me know. I really wish you'd take pics of your work as you go on because trying to visualize some of your descriptions gets difficult.