Yellow Top Batteries, whos got em?
Originally Posted by Grubrunner
Ummm.... considering that's a battery's main purpose, than I say they serve their purpose.


its not realy a deep cycle battery, not good for anything other then that.
For a subtle difference in price why would you by the red top when the yellow top doesn't fail, and can handle much much more.
if its just a plain battery you want then go with a 70$ replacement. smartass..
Last edited by Grafix Ink.; Feb 6, 2008 at 08:17 AM.
I may try a yellow top next if I can ever wear out my current red top.
It is on its third F150 and is four years old with about 60k miles on it and works perfectly. My truck sits for 2-3 weeks at a time now and it never fails to fire right up. So far its the best battery I've ever owned. Just my .02
It is on its third F150 and is four years old with about 60k miles on it and works perfectly. My truck sits for 2-3 weeks at a time now and it never fails to fire right up. So far its the best battery I've ever owned. Just my .02
I had a red top on my jeep and it consistantly performed for 4 years without a hiccup. i had around 700 watts of aftermarket lighting and i could run them for quite a while with the ignition off and it would still start right back up. great battery no matter which one you go with
Originally Posted by Grafix Ink.
main purpose yes.. but if you have any extra lighting, or stereo it fails....
its not realy a deep cycle battery, not good for anything other then that.
For a subtle difference in price why would you by the red top when the yellow top doesn't fail, and can handle much much more.
if its just a plain battery you want then go with a 70$ replacement. smartass..
its not realy a deep cycle battery, not good for anything other then that.
For a subtle difference in price why would you by the red top when the yellow top doesn't fail, and can handle much much more.
if its just a plain battery you want then go with a 70$ replacement. smartass..

There was no need for the "smartass" remark.
Originally Posted by Grubrunner
I wasn't disagreeing with you, I was merely making a [valid] comment, as you clearly validated.
There was no need for the "smartass" remark.

There was no need for the "smartass" remark.

Originally Posted by ThumperMX113
No one knows how to disagree anymore, they have to throw out personal insults at the drop of a hat. I agree with you. I own both a red top and a yellow top, neither have failed me. 

I've owned and installed several Red Tops in the past as well as a few Yellow Tops. In fact, I currently have a Yellow Top I pulled out of my Screw for a muscle car I'm having built. It'll be a season thing, so those who know about the two battery's differences will know why I went this route.
As for the extra lighting and stereo that Grafix speaks of? Well, or the most part he's correct.... but not quite accurate.
The advantage of a Yellow Top [deep cycle] battery is the reserve capacity it has for current draw [power] required without start-up, as opposed to the Red Top. Listening to the stereo for prolonged periods of time without the engine running is a perfect fit. Running the lights without the vehicle running is also in the same catagory - though I have a hard time understanding why anyone would run lights in a vehicle without the engine running... ??? Read: Yellow Tops provides a higher power output -under the conditions mentioned - resulting in greater cranking ability under higher current loads with better cycling and better reserve cpacity than a Red Top.
From Optima's own page - Trucks with winches, cars with high-demand audio systems, commercial trucks and equipment all rely on this battery to provide ultimate starting and deep cycle power.
But the truth of the matter is this: the vast majority of vehicles on the roads are either bone-stock or damn near bone-stock when it comes to additional loads placed on the vehicle's electricla pathway. No zillion watt sound system, no additional lights that'll fix a NYC blackout, no winches to pull out a Dodge with [another] crapped tranny... yada... yada... yada.
Thereby, a Red Top, for the vast numbers, is a very compatible fit. Why? Because it's a [better quality] battery than what EVERY OEM vehicle's battery is designed to do.... start the vehicle without additional [excessive] AM electrical loads!
From Optima's own page -The RedTop is commonly used in trucks, SUV's, luxury cars, hot rods, off-road vehicles and other applications where a leak-proof, high power, long-lasting starting battery is ideal.
But of course, I'm a "smartass" for pointing this out.... and "newbie" knows best.
Pfftttt.....
Yellow Top
I have a Yellow Top in my F-150 and my wifes Jeep. Use them due to extra load of ham radio gear. Great battery for the purpose. Never had a Red Top. I like them because of the top terminals and the side terminals. I use both. Stock electrical to top post and extra gear to side post.
Originally Posted by Ballin STX
Thanks for the info man, I am going to start looking and see where I can find the best price. A buddy of mine quoted me 130$ for the yellow top and he said that was pretty good.
Also to note I have a yellow top in my F150 about 6 months now, came out of my ranger that I totaled (battery took real hard hit when truck flipped-nice gouge in bottom but no leaks) but it was in the ranger for about 3 months with nice sound system. wouldnt put anything else in it
Originally Posted by Grubrunner
But of course, I'm a "smartass" for pointing this out.... and "newbie" knows best.
Pfftttt.....
Pfftttt.....
but agree with what you posted.. although redtop may not be needed it is def better then a regular replacement. i'm just saying i have had bad experience with it and would suggest the yellow. as with anything why gets whats deent when you can get something much better and have room for growth.
Last edited by Grafix Ink.; Feb 6, 2008 at 11:09 PM.
If your engine is running, all the power for your system, lights, winch, whatever is coming from the alternator and the battery is irrelevant.
If you are going to run your stereo with the engine off on a regular basis, you should have a deep cycle. However, you should not expect a deep cycle battery to perform as a starting battery for the long term. While a deep cycle can, and will, work as a starting battery for a while, it is not the best way to spend your money.
If you run a standard duty battery down, especially on a slow drain like the 5-8 aph draw of a stereo, you will ruin the battery, no matter who or how it is made. It is not meant to be used that way, and instead of being called smartass, you will prove to the world you should be called dumbass, because you spent more money to screw up a good battery than you would have it you'd just gone to Wally World and bought a cheap battery.
Want to do it right? Install two batteries, one red top for starting and one yellow top to run auxiliary power with an isolator in between. There's plenty of room in an F150 to do it, and then you can come on here, blow up you r ego showing everyone how cool your truck is, but not have old farts like me think you're a dumbass for acting like you know everything but your stories prove you know nothing.
If you are going to run your stereo with the engine off on a regular basis, you should have a deep cycle. However, you should not expect a deep cycle battery to perform as a starting battery for the long term. While a deep cycle can, and will, work as a starting battery for a while, it is not the best way to spend your money.
If you run a standard duty battery down, especially on a slow drain like the 5-8 aph draw of a stereo, you will ruin the battery, no matter who or how it is made. It is not meant to be used that way, and instead of being called smartass, you will prove to the world you should be called dumbass, because you spent more money to screw up a good battery than you would have it you'd just gone to Wally World and bought a cheap battery.
Want to do it right? Install two batteries, one red top for starting and one yellow top to run auxiliary power with an isolator in between. There's plenty of room in an F150 to do it, and then you can come on here, blow up you r ego showing everyone how cool your truck is, but not have old farts like me think you're a dumbass for acting like you know everything but your stories prove you know nothing.
I run a yellowtop, have been for the past year and a half. It used to last a long *** time just playing music at the lake. Not so much anymore. And **** your sig OnBelay...get's me everytime
Originally Posted by OnBelay
If your engine is running, all the power for your system, lights, winch, whatever is coming from the alternator and the battery is irrelevant.
The exception is this: given your scenario, if the load presented to the alternator is too much for the alternator to handle, then the battery will come into play to take the alternator's excessive load off.
This is a very rare occurance, though, and next to never happens.
One reason being that vehicles that have high current draws through the electrical pathway - whether it be via sound/entertainmant systems, winches, excessive lighting or whatnot - more than likely have an upgraded alternator and/or battery to compensate for the higher load. At least they should.
Any electrician and/or custom car audio installer worth his profession will tell you that if the battery does come into play, whilst engine is running, to take the excessive load off the alterntor, then it's time for an alternator upgrade [amps].
Originally Posted by Grubrunner
I've been singing this same chorus for some time now and for the most part, I agree.
The exception is this: given your scenario, if the load presented to the alternator is too much for the alternator to handle, then the battery will come into play to take the alternator's excessive load off.
This is a very rare occurance, though, and next to never happens.
One reason being that vehicles that have high current draws through the electrical pathway - whether it be via sound/entertainmant systems, winches, excessive lighting or whatnot - more than likely have an upgraded alternator and/or battery to compensate for the higher load. At least they should.
Any electrician and/or custom car audio installer worth his profession will tell you that if the battery does come into play, whilst engine is running, to take the excessive load off the alterntor, then it's time for an alternator upgrade [amps].
The exception is this: given your scenario, if the load presented to the alternator is too much for the alternator to handle, then the battery will come into play to take the alternator's excessive load off.
This is a very rare occurance, though, and next to never happens.
One reason being that vehicles that have high current draws through the electrical pathway - whether it be via sound/entertainmant systems, winches, excessive lighting or whatnot - more than likely have an upgraded alternator and/or battery to compensate for the higher load. At least they should.
Any electrician and/or custom car audio installer worth his profession will tell you that if the battery does come into play, whilst engine is running, to take the excessive load off the alterntor, then it's time for an alternator upgrade [amps].
Realistically, what would you guess the percentage of vehicles to be out there with the true need for an alternator upgrade? Now compare that number of the vehicles that would be fine if the owner were to perform basic maintenance of cleaning the battery posts, making sure the cables were kept free of grease and oil, etc.?



