Power Window - Details - Why it breaks - Photos
 

Here's what I found upon taking the little pulley off the motor assembly.

Goes along with this thread:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=316384

Either Ford designed this to be weak for a reason, like the motor going crazy and they think it's better for the tabs to break on the pulley instead of something else, or it's just a bad design.

This is from a 2004 F150 Lariat (new body style):

This is the overall view. Details in the photo below this one.

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/243508765_92NrV-L.jpg

This pulley to the right is meant to fit into the motor assembly with the tabs inserted into the little slots you see in the motor assembly on the left. That black piece with the slots you see in the motor assembly seems to be a semi-hard foam rubber piece, I assume to provide a little give so the plastic tabs on the pulley don't break on day one and I assume so it's just a smooth stop once the window hits the stopping point. I placed one of the broken off tabs back on the pulley so you can see what it looks like when it's in it's not broke off. This little pulley is the main pulley that the cables wrap around and the motor drives this pulley to raise and lower the window (driver's side, front door in my case). Note that the plastic tabs aren't even solid, they're hollow :( . So you can see why some people have had the window regulator assembly go bad more than once in a few years.

Otherwise the rest of the entire unit looks to be very solid and a good design. It's just a shame the plastic tabs on the main pulley are so darn weak!

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/243508755_PPxpP-L.jpg

Nice post!

Agreed, great post.

:beers:

maybe fill in the slots (holes) in the tabs when getting a new one to make it stronger? That is assuming the new parts do come apart to get to the hollow tabs. nice pic and post.

jim

Overall the product looks great/solid (the whole window regulator assembly). I just think the plastic they used was way too brittle and rigid. Maybe a different type of plastic that is tougher and slightly flexible would have done a better job. I've seen plastics that are nearly indestructable. I wish they had used something like that for this pulley.

Hopefully the new unit I bought has better plastic in the pulley.

mine being replaced now
 

my passenger window on my 2004 fi50 gave way last week,, in by dealer being repaired as we speak. Mechanic just looked at it (window was sticking)and ordered new regulator. Was odd as i hardly ever use the passenger window and it was one that broke. Drivers side so far good and i use it every day,, go figure,, i had extended warranty so only had to pay the $50 deductible,, hopefully driver's side will be covered under that when it goes,, john

Just got mine back from the dealer last night. That would explain why I thought I heard plastic "pop" right before the drivers door glass slid down into the door of its own choosing.

I don't know if that is stupid design or safety / overload design. I am more prone to think it might be about half of each...

Interesting post, thanks.
Anyone know if they changed anything for '06+? I have only seen this problem on 04-05.

X2. Passanger not broken, but rolls up really slowly. In the winter forget about it rolling up. Drivers side, no problem...

Hey, just came across your post. I have this issue right now on a 2004 FX4 driver side door. Where did you buy the window regulator? I have been searching online but can not find one for power windows. All websites say "Power Window" but pictures look like the manual one.


Thanks

Rich

richryan3@verizon.net

thats a whole other can of worms

Good thing I got manual windows. The window regulator setup is totally different.

I've cranked my windows fast, slow, hard, soft... never had a problem. I forced the handle one time with about 50 to about 60 ft/lbs... solid as a rock.

I have had 2 window regulators replaced...

Naw...didn't change anything....My 08 Lariat decided to roll her passenger side window down by herself a month or so ago and refused to roll back up...Of course, it was raining, so I'd rolled her up beforehand. It seemed like it was going up too far, kinda' like the creaking noise after shutting the power rear window sometimes...Like the switch sticks. Wish they had a limiter switch in them, but apparently they go as far as they are supposed to travel and stop. If it's out of adjustment, then stuff cracks, or flexes, and/or breaks.

Hey Lariatf150,

My drivers side also went bad....window sliding down on its own. I plan to buy the window motor/regulator assembly from a local dealer ($130).

Was it easy to maneuver the track assembly after propping up the window and unfastening the glass from the tracks?

I saw the two vertical slots in the interior metal door panel to get to the bolts to unfasten, but wasn't sure how difficult it was to get the assembly out while keeping the glass intact.

thanks in advance.

chris

Every time i see a cop about to drive by i have to roll my windows down right? Yea, so my window has been stuck down in the door twice and the ford dealership blamed it on me both times because i installed custom door handles right....well now my truck isn't under warranty and it's starting to stick but if i let off the switch and hit it again it will usually go up... bad regulator or switch?

I wish the f150's had the same powerful power windows as the f250's have...my buddy has 1% tint on his f250 and his windows fly down...the cops never have a chance to see his tint.

But lets open it because it is a problem I have. The dealer "Lubed" it once and it worked great for all of 3 months. Any better solution? Im afraid mine will soon break if I dont get the strain off of it

any ideas?...anyone?

....looks like i might have to make a thread up top...

power window
 

my power window driver side started makeing a crckleing sound when gowing up an down an now its jamed moves up an down very little on my 2005 f150 any sugestions thanks:thumbsup:

it was my switch you can take it out pull it apart and clean the contacts instead of replacing. replaced my first one on my f150 cleaned wifes expy and work just as well. the drivers side is all one piece think around 70 the single switch is around 80 who figures and yes single is more.

sorry didnt realize this thread was so old!

I've replaced 3 of 4

8-(

^^^
Geto boys. lol :rocker:

I've only replaced 2 of 4. :o

I had to replace the drivers side in mine back in mid October on my 05. I just figure its a matter of time before the passenger side goes out. Since the driverside went out I haven't used the passenger side window.

Ok, really weird issue. I had the above mentioned problem, so I got online and ordered a new assembly for my 04 F150 extend cab.

The part sent was a:

2004 Ford F150 Window Regulator 2/Motor LF

I get the door back together and test things out (thinking this went way too easily) and what do you know. The window is operating BACKWARDS!!! I press up and it goes down and vice versa.

Has anyone ever had this happen? I mean the plugs can only go together one way and I didn't force anything.

Thanks in advance,

Kevin

It does sound like a reverse polarity issue, you said the plug will go only one way. Was the plug keyed, from the picture in the OP there is no way I can tell if it is or not. I also see the wires in the OP are color coded. If you orient your motor the same was as that one, are your colors on the same side/order?

I read in another thread where the aftermarket ones are wired backwards, you have to swap out the wires.

I can take pics, but the connectors are molded and will only connect one way. Everything matched up perfectly.

I have it all back together for now as I have to use the truck today. I will take it apart this weekend and swap the leads and see if that resolves the issue. I knew things went too easily. :)

Thanks for your input folks. :)

See post 43 in this thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...nt-pics-3.html

Sweet and thanks. I actually just called the place I had ordered the part from and he knew of the issue right away. He recommended repinning the connector at the harness connection. I'll do that tomorrow when I have more time.

I also say this, but who knows if it will ever get anywhere:
http://hubpages.com/hub/Recall-2004-...dow-Regulators

The truck that has the problem is the one in your sig picture?.
Let me give you a different scenario that you need to address. The older units like mine 98Exp. used a escalator/ scissor mechanism to raise and lower the windows. Newer units use a "worm-drive" type drive to raise windows. That may vary between different variants of the F-150, Exp, e.t.c models. However if you have the "Express-Down" Feature on your DS-Front window there is a circuit within the GEM that controls that function; separate from the operations of the other windows.
If your DS-Front window alone has the problem, and the others work fine. That function is probably causing the most of your problems.
The express-down feature uses a "current-surge" method to detect when to remove power from the window; such as when at the bottom travel. Stopping the motor causes a current peak that when detected by the GEM immediately shuts off the current drive.
If you have significant binding in the window slides or regulator mechanism it will cause the motor to draw significant current; which will cause the GEM (or similar) to break the current to the motor (through a relay). The GEM doesn't detect current surge to the motor in the "UP" direction; therefore it probably will work on the UP stroke. The motor is essentially "bi-polar" and if it moves at all it is working. The same two leads are used for current in both directions.

To resolve most of these problems you will need to get at the window mechanism directly. Your window will need to slide unrestricted for most of the travel up/down. This is without the help of the regulator/motor mechanism. Some trucks at this time of their lives have deterioration of the felt slider surface in the channels which causes binding of the window. My experience is to replace this slider channel if possible.
It might also be possible to completely lubricate the channel with Lithium Grease (completely); which might mitigate the problem. My regulator/motor mechanism is made of very cheap parts and assemblies and I was required to "rebuild" it to resolve my problems. The DSF window is under considerable strain since it it primarily the most used of all the windows. In my window I found weak welds, and rivets instead of bolts and structural parts to keep it strong. New regulator units are still made the same way; therefore replacing them doesn't really solve the problem. If you possible get a clear shot at the DSF door and window. Check for loose or missing hardware, worn felt and rubber material in the slides.
Check the alignment of the window slide to the window to relieve binding, and clean window itself of Tinting Glue and Tint that may bind the window below the DSF door.
See if this helps.:cool:

I had the same problem in an 05 Supercrew. I replaced switches, reg. assemblies, no luck. Dealership found a broken ground in the wire loom!

My 2004 Lariat super crew lost it's window assembly today. I would like you all to know that this is, yes indeed, my 5th yes 5th window assembly. Ford did not design these correctly. There will never be a recall because this is not a safety issue. Also I almost forgot, my electric rear window went bad 3 years ago. I do not even use the windows that often. I have not had any other problems with this truck. It is like I have a $300 window fee every year... Thanks Ford for putting in cheap window for a $35,000 top of the line truck.

I believe one of the major aftermarket parts and hardware manufacturers sells a window regulator for our trucks with a LIFETIME WARRANTY. I don't think it's that expensive either. Either do a search or someone will chime in with who makes it. Believe it can be purchased at either Autozone or Advanced Auto.

I recently replaced the drivers side on my 05 scab. I had the truck for a week and "pop"! Luckily it didn't bust the glass seeing how it came screaming down from the top. Bad design indeed. Wires didn't break, just the tabs as mentioned. I'm going to see if I can fix the old one...??

Dorman is the manufacturer. They are cheaper than the dealer OEM.

I have replaced 2 of 4. Pisses me off that not only do I have to replace the regulator, but the damn tint on the window also as it gets scratched all to hell.

I have replaced both fronts on my 05, but got lucky on the tint.

IMO changing it out was not bad but I see some of y'all have done it like 5or 6 times...that's total BS in my book. The last Ford truck I had was an 82 step side so I've been outta the loop for a while. Anyways, it's been 2 weeks since I changed mine...I have not been running it up or down till it slams closed or open. I'm thinking it might be to much strain on the feeble parts its built with...and just maybe not running up or down to the limits might help.???

Got a 2005 replaced the driver side last year, passenger this year.
POS design.

Yep, on my third, just ordered a Dorman. The last two were ford parts. So sucks...By the way I lube the rails with white grease before if finish the job. THey run dry, but I figure the least resistance the better.