Every time i see a cop about to drive by i have to roll my windows down right? Yea, so my window has been stuck down in the door twice and the ford dealership blamed it on me both times because i installed custom door handles right....well now my truck isn't under warranty and it's starting to stick but if i let off the switch and hit it again it will usually go up... bad regulator or switch?

I wish the f150's had the same powerful power windows as the f250's have...my buddy has 1% tint on his f250 and his windows fly down...the cops never have a chance to see his tint.

 

But lets open it because it is a problem I have. The dealer "Lubed" it once and it worked great for all of 3 months. Any better solution? Im afraid mine will soon break if I dont get the strain off of it

 

any ideas?...anyone?

....looks like i might have to make a thread up top...

 

my power window driver side started makeing a crckleing sound when gowing up an down an now its jamed moves up an down very little on my 2005 f150 any sugestions thanks

 

it was my switch you can take it out pull it apart and clean the contacts instead of replacing. replaced my first one on my f150 cleaned wifes expy and work just as well. the drivers side is all one piece think around 70 the single switch is around 80 who figures and yes single is more.

sorry didnt realize this thread was so old!

 

I've replaced 3 of 4

8-(

 

^^^
Geto boys. lol

I've only replaced 2 of 4. :o

 

I had to replace the drivers side in mine back in mid October on my 05. I just figure its a matter of time before the passenger side goes out. Since the driverside went out I haven't used the passenger side window.

 

Ok, really weird issue. I had the above mentioned problem, so I got online and ordered a new assembly for my 04 F150 extend cab.

The part sent was a:

2004 Ford F150 Window Regulator 2/Motor LF

I get the door back together and test things out (thinking this went way too easily) and what do you know. The window is operating BACKWARDS!!! I press up and it goes down and vice versa.

Has anyone ever had this happen? I mean the plugs can only go together one way and I didn't force anything.

Thanks in advance,

Kevin

 

It does sound like a reverse polarity issue, you said the plug will go only one way. Was the plug keyed, from the picture in the OP there is no way I can tell if it is or not. I also see the wires in the OP are color coded. If you orient your motor the same was as that one, are your colors on the same side/order?

 

I read in another thread where the aftermarket ones are wired backwards, you have to swap out the wires.

 

I can take pics, but the connectors are molded and will only connect one way. Everything matched up perfectly.

I have it all back together for now as I have to use the truck today. I will take it apart this weekend and swap the leads and see if that resolves the issue. I knew things went too easily.

Thanks for your input folks.

 

See post 43 in this thread.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...nt-pics-3.html

 

Sweet and thanks. I actually just called the place I had ordered the part from and he knew of the issue right away. He recommended repinning the connector at the harness connection. I'll do that tomorrow when I have more time.

I also say this, but who knows if it will ever get anywhere:
http://hubpages.com/hub/Recall-2004-...dow-Regulators

 

The truck that has the problem is the one in your sig picture?.
Let me give you a different scenario that you need to address. The older units like mine 98Exp. used a escalator/ scissor mechanism to raise and lower the windows. Newer units use a "worm-drive" type drive to raise windows. That may vary between different variants of the F-150, Exp, e.t.c models. However if you have the "Express-Down" Feature on your DS-Front window there is a circuit within the GEM that controls that function; separate from the operations of the other windows.
If your DS-Front window alone has the problem, and the others work fine. That function is probably causing the most of your problems.
The express-down feature uses a "current-surge" method to detect when to remove power from the window; such as when at the bottom travel. Stopping the motor causes a current peak that when detected by the GEM immediately shuts off the current drive.
If you have significant binding in the window slides or regulator mechanism it will cause the motor to draw significant current; which will cause the GEM (or similar) to break the current to the motor (through a relay). The GEM doesn't detect current surge to the motor in the "UP" direction; therefore it probably will work on the UP stroke. The motor is essentially "bi-polar" and if it moves at all it is working. The same two leads are used for current in both directions.

To resolve most of these problems you will need to get at the window mechanism directly. Your window will need to slide unrestricted for most of the travel up/down. This is without the help of the regulator/motor mechanism. Some trucks at this time of their lives have deterioration of the felt slider surface in the channels which causes binding of the window. My experience is to replace this slider channel if possible.
It might also be possible to completely lubricate the channel with Lithium Grease (completely); which might mitigate the problem. My regulator/motor mechanism is made of very cheap parts and assemblies and I was required to "rebuild" it to resolve my problems. The DSF window is under considerable strain since it it primarily the most used of all the windows. In my window I found weak welds, and rivets instead of bolts and structural parts to keep it strong. New regulator units are still made the same way; therefore replacing them doesn't really solve the problem. If you possible get a clear shot at the DSF door and window. Check for loose or missing hardware, worn felt and rubber material in the slides.
Check the alignment of the window slide to the window to relieve binding, and clean window itself of Tinting Glue and Tint that may bind the window below the DSF door.
See if this helps.